By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​​Although bringing a new puppy home is exciting, those first nights can be exhausting. Young puppies rarely sleep through the night right away because of small bladders, limited self-soothing skills, the sudden change of being taken away from their mother and littermates, and being relocated to a home where everything is new. With proper environmental management, consistent routines and patience, puppies will gradually learn to sleep for longer periods of time until they sleep peacefully through the night. Although how long it takes can vary from dog to dog depending on breed, size and temperament, most puppies learn to sleep though by 12 to 16 weeks of age and many a lot sooner (R2) (R5).

​In their early weeks, puppies need approximately 18 to 20 hours of sleep per day to support growth and development, and as they mature, they gradually begin to sleep for longer periods at night.
 
A useful guideline is that a puppy should be able to hold its bladder for roughly its age in months plus one hour, which means at the beginning, it’s realistic to expect one or more trips outside through the night. This will decrease as bladder control improves (R4) (R8).

Some young puppies can hold their bladder throughout the night because, much like humans, their bodies enter a deeper state of rest and physiological “shutdown” during sleep. Reduced activity, slower metabolism and less fluid processing mean urine production slows down significantly. This natural night time effect can override the common guideline that a puppy can typically hold its bladder only for about as many hours as its age in months plus one.

Most young puppies wake mainly because they need to eliminate, although separation anxiety caused by being removed from their mother and littermates can also contribute. Medical issues such as, but not limited to UTI’s (urinary tract infection) are less common but should be ruled out by a veterinarian if waking is excessive or accompanied by other symptoms including frequent urination, excessively licking the genital area, straining, whimpering or crying while urinating, blood in urine, pink or cloudy urine and foul smelling urine (R6) (R10). For more information about house training see my article entitled Potty Training A Puppy: The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.
 
Being aware of how much sleep a puppy requires, some of my clients attempt to force their puppies to sleep most of the day. This is not necessary in fact, forcing a puppy to relax when its full of energy can cause frustration, stress and anxiety. As long as the opportunity is there, most puppies will remove themselves for a nap when they need to. It’s important to allow a puppy to sleep undisturbed when it so chooses, but just as important to not attempt to force it to sleep when it’s not ready.

Dogs thrive on predictability and as a result, meals, exercise, play and bedtime should be at roughly the same times every day. This helps establish their internal body clock (R1) (R2).
 
In the evening:

• Provide physical exercise and mental stimulation up to an hour before bed such as; walks, play, short training sessions, canine enrichment (games, puzzle toys, chewing) so your puppy is pleasantly tired.
• Avoid high-energy games in the last 30 to 60 minutes before bed to prevent over-stimulated.
• Feed the last meal 3 to 4 hours before bed to allow for digestion before settling in.
• Restrict access to water an hour before bed then take a final outdoor elimination break right before calling it a night (R2) (R3) (R5).

 
For 50 canine enrichment options see my article Canine Enrichment: Best Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention.
 
A consistent wind-down sequence such as a short, slow, sniff walk or cuddle time, followed by a calm trip outside to eliminate before entering the sleeping area will let your puppy know when it’s time to sleep.

Many experts recommend starting with a properly sized crate, just large enough for your puppy to stand, turn around and lie down comfortably, but not so spacious that one end becomes a bathroom. Another option is to use an exercise pen with newspapers or pee pads at one end to allow for night elimination. A tarp can be placed under the X pen with the edges outside of the pen to protect the rug or floor, and to prevent your puppy from chewing on the tarp. Place the crate or exercise pen beside your bed so your puppy can hear and smell you. This can help to reduce separation anxiety caused by leaving its mother and littermates (R9) (R1).
 
Make your puppy’s space inviting:

• Provide soft, washable bedding but remove it if your puppy chews or soils it.
• Give your puppy a worn T-shirt that smells like or a blanket from its litter so it doesn’t feel alone.
• Add a safe chew toy or hard bully stick to help your puppy settle. Your bully stick needs to be hard to prevent your puppy from ingesting too much, resulting in a need to eliminate.
• Cover three sides of the crate or X pen with a light blanket for a den-like, darker environment that encourages melatonin production and rest.

(R1) (R7)
 
Introduce the crate or X pen in a positive manner during the day with meals, treats, chew and canine enrichment options, while introducing closed-door sessions so it never feels like punishment. At bedtime, use a calm cue (“go to bed”) and reward your puppy for entering quietly. For more information about crate training see my article Crate Training A Puppy & Why A Crate Is Only One Option.

Although many have strong opinions about this, my opinion is that this is always a personal choice. Our dogs are allowed to sleep on our bed if they so choose, so our puppies are on the bed from the day they come home. To set us up for success we put little bells on their collars so if they wake in the night we can take them out to prevent accidents on the bed, and after decades of raising many puppies, we’ve never had one.
 
The more important question to ask is what you want long term. Dogs learn patterns and routines, and changing them can cause stress and anxiety, which can lead to behaviour problems and compromise emotional wellbeing. Because of this, it's better to establish the sleeping arrangement you want for the rest your dog’s life from the onset, instead of introducing one routine and changing it later (R3) (R6).

When your puppy cries, it’s important to first understand the likely cause. If it’s been a few hours and you’ve reached or are close to the age-related bladder capacity, take a calm, boring trip outside to eliminate. Put the leash on and take your puppy outside with quiet and minimal talking and no play. Praise your puppy calmly immediately after eliminating, then go straight to bed. Keep the lights low and interaction brief so your puppy doesn’t learn that getting up at night means fun and extra attention (R7) (R1). Setting an alarm slightly before the usual waking time can prevent your puppy from learning that crying gets attention (R8). Gradually extend the intervals between outside breaks as your puppy matures and you achieve success. For more information about house training, see my article Potty Training: The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.
 
If your puppy has recently eliminated and starts crying after all of its needs have been met, give it a few minutes to see if it settles on its own. Mild fussing or attention behaviour can be briefly ignored. If your puppy continues or becomes increasingly distressed, calmly reassure it without turning the interaction into playtime. Slide your fingers between the bars and speak softly to your puppy to provide quiet contact until it relaxes, then gradually move away. Your goal is to help your puppy feel safe while also giving it opportunities to learn how to settle independently.
 
If your puppy still doesn’t settle, don’t allow it to become increasingly distressed. Take it outside for a quiet bathroom break, even if it recently had one. Check that it isn’t too hot or cold, thirsty (if it’s hot), uncomfortable, frightened or over-stimulated. Keep the interactions calm and quiet rather than turning it into playtime. If your puppy’s physical needs have been met but it still can’t settle, stay close and provide quiet reassurance until it calms down. Some puppies need more support than others before they are capable of settling independently, particularly when they are very young and adjusting to a new home.

• Ensure sufficient exercise and mental stimulation during the day without over-tiring your puppy, which can cause crankiness.
• Use white noise or a fan to mask household sounds and provide comfort.
• Keep the sleeping area dim and quiet, and minimize your own night noise and movement as much as possible during the adjustment period.
• Be patient and consistent, you should begin to see progress within 1 to 4 weeks and often sooner (R6) (R2).

 
If challenges continue beyond the expected age milestones, it’s important to look at other possible contributors. If your puppy shows signs of being unwell in any way contact your vet, and if it shows continued signs of separation anxiety, consult a qualified and experienced positive behaviour expert.

Teaching a puppy to sleep through the night is not about forcing it to sleep longer, it’s about supporting natural development with structure, comfort and consistency. If you maintain a consistent routine and respond appropriately to meet its needs, both you and your puppy will soon be enjoying peaceful nights.

(R1) Dogster. How to Get a Puppy to Sleep Through the Night: 6 Vet-Reviewed Tips. https://www.dogster.com/dog-health-care/help-puppy-sleep-through-night/
(R2) ManyPets. How to help your puppy sleep through the night. https://manypets.com/uk/articles/how-to-help-your-puppy-sleep-through-the-night/
(R3) Whole Dog Journal. How to Get a Puppy to Sleep Through the Night. https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/puppies/how-to-get-a-puppy-to-sleep-through-the-night/
(R4) PetsRadar. How to get a puppy to sleep through the night: 5 tips from a vet. https://www.petsradar.com/advice/how-to-make-puppies-sleep-5-tips-to-help-you-and-your-puppy-get-through-the-night
(R5) Chewy. How To Get a Puppy To Sleep Through the Night. https://www.chewy.com/education/dog/new-dog/how-to-teach-your-puppy-to-sleep-through-the-night
(R6) SpectrumCare. Puppy Sleep Training: Helping a Puppy Sleep Through the Night. https://spectrumcare.pet/dogs/training/puppy-sleep-training
(R7) Preventive Vet. How to Help Your Puppy Sleep Through the Night. https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-help-puppy-sleep-through-the-night
(R8) Pupford. How to Get Your Puppy to Sleep Through the Night. https://pupford.com/blogs/all/puppy-sleep-through-night
(R9) Rover. How To Crate Train a Puppy at Night. https://www.rover.com/blog/crate-training-at-night/
(R10) Chewy (additional notes on medical issues). https://www.chewy.com/education/dog/new-dog/how-to-teach-your-puppy-to-sleep-through-the-night
 
Photo By Greg Ceci

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Bringing home a new puppy is exciting, but it also comes with many responsibilities. One of the first questions new puppy guardians often ask is, “Should I crate train my puppy?” Crate training is a common recommendation, and when introduced properly, a crate can be a useful tool. It can provide a safe den to rest in, help prevent unwanted chewing when a puppy can’t be supervised, assist with housebreaking and prepare a dog for situations where confinement may be necessary, such as travel, veterinary care or emergencies (R1) (R8).
 
However, a crate is not the only way to successfully raise a well-behaved puppy. While some quickly learn to love their crates, others find confinement stressful. They will whine, scratch at the door, panic, attempt to escape, and some become increasingly anxious the longer they’re confined. In severe cases, dogs even injure themselves while attempting to escape, or chew or lick excessively at their own bodies as a way of coping with their anxiety.
 
Every puppy is unique and the best training approach is the one that helps the puppy feel safe while learning appropriate behaviours (R2) (R3). The goal of puppy training is not just about teaching a puppy to tolerate confinement, it’s to raise an independent, confident, relaxed and happy dog that can be trusted to not have accidents or chew inappropriate items when left alone in the house.

Crates are popular because they provide a practical way to manage normal puppy behaviour. Young puppies explore their environment with their mouths the way children use their hands. They will chew, investigate and can get into things that are potentially dangerous if not kept out of reach. A crate can prevent a puppy from practising unwanted behaviours when supervision isn’t possible (R1). A crate can also provide a quiet place where a puppy can rest, chew appropriate items and learn to settle. When introduced gradually and positively, many dogs will willingly choose to spend time in their crates because they associate them with comfort, relaxation and rewards.

The key to success is how the crate is introduced. A puppy should never be forced into a crate or expected to immediately accept being closed inside for long periods of time. A puppy that’s already adjusting to leaving its mother and littermates is likely to suffer separation anxiety and find sudden isolation frightening and upsetting.

Imagine being an eight-week-old puppy. Yesterday, you were with your mother and littermates surrounded by everything familiar. All of a sudden you are in a new home with new people, sights, sounds and smells and possibly other animals, and then you find yourself all alone in a crate. For most puppies, this experience is frightening and overwhelming. If the puppy acts out it’s not because it’s disobedient or demanding, it’s because it’s scared, stressed and anxious.

Like people, dogs vary in personality and temperament. While some are naturally more independent and adaptable, others need gradual introduction to new and necessary experiences. Behaviour experts recommend using step-by-step, positive training methods to prevent unpleasant emotions, and set the puppy up for success by creating positive associations (R1) (R3). For more information about positive training see my article entitled Positive Dog Training: The Science, Ethics & Proven Results.

Signs that a puppy is distressed include: excessive panting, drooling, frantic attempts to escape, prolonged distress vocalization, refusal to engage in chewing while in the crate and refusing to enter the crate. A puppy that occasionally complains because it would rather be out playing is different from one that’s actually distressed. Recognizing this is an important part of responsible training. To learn more about stress and anxiety in dogs see my article Stress & Anxiety In Dogs: How To Cure Stress & Anxiety While Protecting Your Dog’s Emotional Wellbeing.

I always videotape my puppies when I leave until I’m confident they are calm, happy and not having accidents or chewing inappropriate items while I’m gone. When I brought Tala home and confined him to a small area, he panicked the moment I left. He cried and attempted to escape. When I set him up in my kitchen secured with an exercise pen, with his bed, toys and a variety of tasty, aromatic chews, he immediately settled down. It was obvious that this boy simply needed more space to feel comfortable.
 
An exercise pen, often called an X-pen, is an excellent alternative to crate training for many puppies. It provides a safe, enclosed area while allowing the puppy more freedom to move around and stay active. The puppy can stretch, change sleeping positions, play with toys, chew on a bully stick or stuffed Kong and relax without feeling confined. For many puppies, the additional space reduces frustration, stress and anxiety, and helps them settle.
 
An exercise pen can include a comfortable bed, safe and tasty chew options, water and enrichment activities. Water is only left out when the puppy will be alone for more than a couple hours to reduce the need for urination and to prevent spills.
 
The X pen can be set up on a tarp to protect the floor, with newspapers or pee pads placed in one area for elimination. When using larger confined spaces, the exercise pen can also be positioned to block access to walls, cabinetry or other items the puppy might chew.
 
This setup allows guardians to safely manage their puppy while they are busy with chores or need to leave the home, while still allowing the puppy opportunities to move around, stay busy and mentally stimulated. Many breeders and trainers use exercise pens because they allow puppies to develop independence in a safe, controlled environment (R4). For more information about mental stimulation see my article entitled Canine Enrichment: The Best Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention.

Some puppies do very well with access to a puppy-proofed room or gated area of the home. A kitchen, laundry room, hall or other safe area can provide enough space for the puppy to rest, move around and play while preventing access to unsafe items. The key to success is preparation. The area should be free from electrical cords, toxic plants, dangerous objects and anything inappropriate the puppy could chew or swallow. Again, exercise pens can be used to protect walls or other objects the dog may chew on. Our goal is to create a safe environment where the puppy is set up to succeed.

For puppies that benefit from crate training, the process should always move at the puppy’s pace. Begin by leaving the crate door open and allowing the puppy to enter voluntarily. Toss treats near the crate and place some inside, feed meals in the crate, and provide special toys and chew options inside. Never force the puppy into the crate. Our goal is for the puppy to learn that good things happen in there and to choose to enter willingly.
 
Once the puppy is comfortable entering the crate and relaxing on its own, close the door for just a few seconds before opening it again. Always open the door while the puppy is still busy playing or chewing, before it becomes upset. Slowly increase the amount of time the door remains closed, continuing to let the puppy out before it shows any signs of distress.
 
This process, known as desensitization and counter conditioning, helps puppies develop positive associations with confinement (R2). Desensitization gradually gets the puppy used to spending time in the crate, while counter conditioning creates a pleasant association.

Many people believe that a crate is necessary for successful housebreaking however, while a crate can be helpful, it’s not the only option. Effective housebreaking focuses on creating a pattern of behaviour that includes preventing accidents, providing frequent opportunities to eliminate outside and rewarding the dog for doing so. Through consistency and repetition, the puppy learns that eliminating outside makes good things happen, while opportunities to have accidents indoors are minimized and the puppy learns from its mistakes without reprimands.
 
An exercise pen can be especially useful for young puppies because it provides a safe area while they are still developing bladder control. As puppies mature and become more reliable, they can be given more freedom until they are trustworthy enough to have access to most of the home. Our goal isn’t just to restrict the puppy’s movements, it’s to prevent unwanted habits from developing while teaching behaviours we want instead. For a pro-active housebreaking plan, see my article entitled How To Potty Train A Puppy – The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.

​​My opinion is that a puppy needs to learn independence and how to settle when necessary however, I do not agree with leaving young puppies alone for long periods unless it’s absolutely unavoidable. My rule of thumb is to gradually build the amount of time a young puppy is left alone, up to approximately four hours at most. Having someone you trust take your puppy out while you’re gone will help reduce stress.
 
Once the puppy is no longer having accidents in the house or chewing inappropriate objects, it can begin to earn more freedom in the home. Doors can always be closed to rooms you don’t want your puppy to enter. Once your puppy can safely have the run of the house, the amount of time left alone can be increased at the puppy’s pace until it reaches the length of time the adult dog will eventually need to manage. As always, when we have to leave our dogs, we return home as soon as possible to ensure we are meeting their needs.

The first few nights with a new puppy can be challenging. Puppies are accustomed to sleeping with their mother and littermates, so adjusting to a new sleeping environment can take time. Whether you are using a crate, exercise pen or puppy-proofed area, your goal is to help the puppy feel safe and secure. Keep in mind that dogs are social animals and often prefer to sleep near their family, so suddenly expecting a young puppy to sleep alone can be stressful. Keeping the puppy’s sleeping area beside your bed until they develop more independence can help make the transition easier.​

Although some puppies will sleep through the night from the day they come home, others will require night time bathroom breaks. Picking up the food at least 3 hours and water at least two hours before bed will help because an empty (not hungry) puppy is more likely to sleep through the night. With a puppy that needs to go out during the night, a calm, consistent routine works best. Quietly take the puppy outside, allow it to eliminate, reward it with a small treat for doing so then return to its sleeping area. As puppies mature, they will begin sleeping for longer periods until they are able to comfortably sleep through the night. For more information see my article Sleeping Through The Night: Proven Tips For Restful Sleep.

It’s best to decide where you want your dog to sleep long term before it comes home, because changing your routine after you’ve created a pattern can cause unnecessary stress and anxiety that can lead to emotional distress and other behaviour problems.
 
For the record, our dogs are allowed to sleep in our bed if they so choose, and because of this, we allow our puppies to sleep with us from the day they come home. We put little bells on their collars so we can hear them if they get up and take them outside to prevent accidents on the bed. I’ve done this with many puppies over the years and have never had an accident.

(R1) American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). Humane Dog Training Position Statement.
https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/
(R2) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats. CattleDog Publishing.
(R3) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.
(R4) Dunbar, I. (2003). Before & After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, Well-Behaved Dog. New World Library.
(R5) Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesirable behaviors. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(1–2), 47–54.
(R6) Bradshaw, J. (2011). Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You a Better Friend to Your Pet. Basic Books.
(R7) VCA Animal Hospitals. Crate Training Your Puppy.
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/crate-training-your-puppy
 
Photo By Norma Jeanne Laurette

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Artificial intelligence capabilities are advancing at an unprecedented pace, while robotics is moving from science fiction into everyday conversation and very soon, into our lives. This shift has been fuelled by predictions by Tesla CEO Elon Musk, who believes humanoid robots are soon to become one of the largest industries in history. According to Musk, Tesla plans to make its Optimus humanoid robots available for public purchase in 2027, potentially reaching around one million robots in operation by the end of 2027. He also states that there could eventually be tens of billions of humanoid robots worldwide, meaning more robots than humans (R1). There is growing agreement, that just like smart-phones, automated checkouts and voice assistants, robots will soon become highly utilized tools in our communities.

We will soon see robots working in public places, assisting in hospitals, delivering goods, maintaining buildings and performing tasks that are repetitive, dangerous or physically demanding. Eventually, robots are expected to enter homes to help with household chores, provide assistance for seniors and people with special needs and make daily life easier for everyone who can afford one. This raises the important question. How will a world with so many robots affect one of humanity’s oldest relationships, the one we have with our dogs?

The question is not whether robots will become part of our lives – it’s a matter of when. The real question is whether we’ll use them to strengthen the relationship with our dogs or slowly allow them to replace the very interactions that make that relationship so important, unique and extraordinary.

​Dogs don’t just need food, water, exercise and shelter – they also need relationships with their own kind and meaningful social, human interaction. Every walk we take together, every training session, every game of fetch, every cuddle on the couch, every gentle touch and every time we talk to our dogs, it strengthens our relationship – at least it does when we utilize benevolent leadership and positive training. These ordinary, everyday moments build trust, confidence, communication, a sense of security and emotional wellbeing. For more information about meeting your dogs’ emotional needs see my article entitled Emotional Fulfilment For Dogs.

If robots eventually become capable of feeding our dogs, throwing balls, opening doors, dispensing treats or even taking dogs for walks, we should ask ourselves one important question. Just because a robot can do something, should it?

Many of the daily activities involved in caring for our dogs are not simply chores, they’re opportunities to build and strengthen one of the closest and best relationships many people will ever have.

​Due to the corporate vet clinic takeover crisis among other factors, sharing our lives with dogs has become significantly more expensive in recent years. Veterinary costs have risen dramatically, with some analyses estimating increases of more than 40 percent between 2021 and 2026. Annual expenses for many dogs now exceed $4,000, while lifetime guardianship costs can easily surpass $50,000 depending on breed, health care requirements, size and longevity, in fact, one emergency can quickly eat up tens of thousands of dollars (R3). For more information about the affect corporate takeovers are having on vet fees see my article The Corporate Vet Clinic Takeover Crisis.

As robots become more affordable and capable, many families will be tempted to automate parts of dog guardianship to save time or money. Some people could decide against getting a dog altogether, some might choose breeds they believe require less work and expense, while others might rely more heavily on automated feeding systems, monitoring devices, robotic companions and AI training tools.

Technology is not the enemy in fact many new products offer genuine benefits. AI-powered cameras can alert guardians if their dog appears anxious or distressed. Smart collars can monitor activity levels, sleep patterns, heart rate and location. Robotic devices can fill the food and water bowl, offer treats, monitor behaviour while guardians are away and even provide mental stimulation and enrichment through interactive games. Some robotic systems, such as ORo developed by Ogmen Robotics, can move throughout the home, interact with dogs, monitor behaviour and provide guardians with updates while they’re away (R4).

Robotic companion animals are already being used in hospitals, schools, nursing homes and care facilities across many countries, including Japan, the US, UK, Australia and other European countries. Research involving older adults with dementia and children with autism suggests that robotic animals can provide comfort, reduce loneliness and encourage interaction in situations where live animals are impractical. However, when researchers compare robotic animals with real dogs, live dogs consistently produce stronger emotional responses, deeper social interaction and greater improvements in emotional wellbeing. This proves that although robots can complement conventional therapy, they cannot replace the unique benefits of interacting with live dogs (R7). Although these technologies can improve safety and convenience, they should always be viewed as tools, and never replacements for human care or companionship.

​Dogs are unique in that they’ve evolved to communicate with people in ways no other species can. Research has shown that dogs understand and respond to human gestures, make eye contact, recognize our emotions through sight and scent, respond to our voices and even synchronize some of their behaviour to mimic our own (R2). Training isn’t just about teaching cues and signals, it opens the lines of communication in both directions. Walking isn’t simply exercise, it’s quality time and shared exploration. Playing fetch isn’t simply burning energy, it’s social interaction. Even sitting quietly together strengthens the human/canine trust bond and attachment. For more information about a dog’s ability to read our emotions through scent see my article Canine Senses & Cognition. For more information about canine communication and body language see our first book Blueprint To A Happy Dog as well as my articles entitled Micro-Expressions In Dogs and Misunderstood Canine Communication & Body Language.

If robots begin performing many of these daily interactions, we risk losing countless opportunities to strengthen the relationship that matters so much. Regardless of how advanced it becomes, no machine can replace genuine human touch, affection, empathy or the satisfaction dogs experience when interacting with the people they love. 

​One area many have yet to consider is how dogs themselves will react to meeting robots for the first time or having them in their homes. To us, a household robot may seem intriguing but to a dog, it’s something different altogether. Robots can perform movements unlike any person or animal. They can move and change direction unpredictably, glide silently across the floor, suddenly change direction, make unfamiliar noises and some have flashing lights. They also lack the normal scent and body language dogs rely on to interpret emotions and social situations. Some dogs may quickly accept robots while many will become frightened, bark excessively, growl, attempt to escape or even chase or attack them. Because of this, many dogs will require careful behavioural preparation before robots can become part of their everyday life.

​As robots become more common in homes, veterinary clinics, shopping centres, airports, hospitals and public spaces, professional dog trainers will play an increasingly important role in helping dogs become comfortable around them through desensitization and counter-conditioning. This process should never involve flooding, which means forcing a frightened dog to remain in close proximity or a confined area with a robot in the hope that it will eventually become accustomed to it. Instead, we should rely on two well-established, scientifically supported behaviour modification techniques – desensitization and counter-conditioning. For more information about flooding, desensitization and counter conditioning, see our first book Blueprint To A Happy Dog.

​Throughout the process, it’s important to keep the dog below threshold, which is the point at which fear or reactivity begins to occur. Desensitization involves introducing the robot gradually, beginning at a distance where the dog notices it but does not react. The robot should initially remain quiet and stationary before gradually progressing to slow movements, flashing lights and sounds. Each element is then increased slowly over time, as the dog remains relaxed, before gradually decreasing the distance, until the dog can comfortably tolerate normal operation with confidence.

​Counter conditioning changes the dog’s emotional response by pairing the robot with something the dog loves, such as favourite treats or toys, games, praise or other enjoyable experiences. Over time, the appearance of the robot predicts good things instead of something frightening, resulting in a dog that’s happy to see the robot (R5).

These methods have decades of scientific support and are considered the gold standard for helping dogs overcome fear and develop positive emotional associations (R5). Guardians who simply switch on a robot and expect their dog to figure it out are likely to unintentionally cause unnecessary stress, anxiety and fear, as well as a myriad of behaviour and possibly aggression problems. Teaching guardians how to guide their dogs as they adjust to robots will become another important responsibility for positive dog trainers. For more information about desensitization and counter conditioning see my article Stress & Anxiety In Dogs.

​In a full-circle moment, researchers have begun adapting techniques from professional positive dog training to teach robots new behaviours. Positive reinforcement, shaping, luring, verbal cues, hand signals and reward-based learning are now being used to teach quadruped robots how to navigate environments, interact with people and learn new behaviours more efficiently (R6).

​The technology itself isn’t something to fear, it’s the bigger concern that the convenience could slowly replace connection at the expense of our own and our dogs emotional wellbeing. Every responsibility we hand over to a robot is an interaction we no longer share with our dogs. When enough of those moments disappear, the relationship itself will begin to change, and it’s our responsibility to make sure it doesn’t. I for one will never allow a robot to care for or walk my dogs any more than I’d let most humans, but that’s just me. The way I see it, not only is it my responsibility to keep my dogs safe and meet all their needs, it’s a joy and privilege to do so.

​If Elon Musk’s prediction is correct and robots eventually outnumber people, our homes and communities will soon look very different than they do today, but one thing that should never change is our connection and relationship with our dogs (R1). Technology should enhance our lives, not replace the moments that matter most. Every walk, training session, game of fetch, grooming session, cuddle on the couch and every quiet moment we spend together is invaluable and irreplaceable. Research has proven that these positive interactions increase oxytocin the (bonding hormone) in both dogs and people, helping to build trust, attachment and emotional wellbeing (R8). That bond is one of the greatest gifts dogs have ever given us and it’s up to us to make sure we never allow technology to take it away.

​As remarkable as artificial intelligence and robotics may become, there is one thing they will never be able to replace, and that’s the relationship between dogs and the people who love them. Although there’s nothing wrong with using technology to make life a little easier, no robot, no matter how intelligent or sophisticated can love our dogs. It cannot celebrate your dog’s successes, comfort them when they’re frightened or experience the joy that comes from building a relationship based on mutual trust, respect and understanding.

As robots become part of our homes and daily lives, let’s use them wisely. Let them handle repetitive tasks so we have more time to do what only humans can do, which is build a lifetime of memories with those we love including our dogs. Technology should help us strengthen the human/canine bond – not replace it. If we move into this new era with our eyes open and good intent, we can all benefit from our future with robots.

(R1) Tesla. (2024). 2024 Annual Shareholder Meeting. Elon Musk discusses Optimus production plans and predicts that humanoid robots could eventually outnumber humans. Available from Tesla Investor Relations and shareholder meeting recordings.
(R2) Hare, B., & Tomasello, M. (2005). Human-like social skills in dogs? Trends in Cognitive Sciences, 9(9), 439–444.
(R3) American Pet Products Association. (2025). 2025–2026 APPA National Pet Guardians Survey. Veterinary inflation data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics Consumer Price Index.
(R4) Ogmen Robotics. ORo Companion Robot product information and technical specifications.
(R5) American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviour (AVSAB). (2021). Humane Dog Training Position Statement.
Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.
(R6) Abdelghani, M., et al. (2024). Research describing how reward-based dog training techniques are being adapted to teach quadruped robots natural human interaction and navigation.
Noreils, F. R. (2024). Humanoid Robots at Work: Where Are We? arXiv:2404.04249.
(R7) Leng, M., et al. (2019). Use of Robotic Pets in Dementia Care: A Systematic Review.
Abbott, R., et al. (2019). The Therapeutic Effects of Human–Animal Interaction Compared with Robotic Animal Interaction: A Systematic Review.
(R8) Nagasawa, M., Mitsui, S., En, S., et al. (2015). Oxytocin-gaze positive loop and the coevolution of human-dog bonds. Science, 348(6232), 333–336.

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​As adults, we are responsible for the energy we put forth into this world. We are also responsible for the attitude and behaviours we bring to the table and how our words and behaviour affect those around us. I’m not saying we are responsible for someone else’s happiness, I’m not saying we don’t all have bad days or deal with life’s challenges and I’m not saying that physical, emotional and mental stresses can’t make our lives very difficult. What I am saying is that when we choose to share our lives with anyone else, whether it’s a spouse or partner, or bringing children or animals into our home, we are responsible for the energy we choose to share with them. They deserve our respect and the best we can give them, and by what we do or do not do, we make their lives and our own better or worse. I’ve always said, it’s not what happens to us but how we choose to handle it that defines our character. As responsible adults, it’s important to contribute positive energy for ourselves and those around us because whether it’s good or bad, our behaviour has a ripple affect. Unfortunately, many dog guardians are unaware of how their energy and behaviour affects those around them, including their dogs.
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Our dogs need a natural, nutritious and balanced diet. They also need fresh, clean water, sufficient exercise and quality sleep to stay healthy. But there’s another form of nourishment that’s just as important and often overlooked. Dogs also need emotional security, trust and recharge, because a dog can be physically fed yet emotionally starved (R1) (R2). This emotional nourishment comes from safety, social connection, canine enrichment, freedom, autonomy, predictability, play, exploration, communication, decompression and the ability to engage in natural dog behaviours. Without their basic needs met, many dogs begin to struggle emotionally, even when they live in loving homes (R1) (R3). What many guardians see as disobedience or bad behaviour is often the emotional equivalent of malnutrition (R2) (R4). A dog that barks excessively, reacts aggressively, destroys furniture, panics when left alone, becomes hyperactive, shuts down or struggles to settle may not be difficult or stubborn, it could simply be emotionally malnourished (R1) (R5). For more information about nutrition see Canine Nutrition – Essential For Your Dog’s Health & Longevity and Canine Nutrition – Raw For Dogs. For more information about canine enrichment ideas see my article Best Canine Enrichment Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention.

​Dogs are sentient beings with biological, psychological and emotional needs. Emotional nutrition is everything that supports a dog’s psychological wellbeing and emotional stability. Just as protein helps build muscle, and nutrition supports physical health, emotional experiences help build resilience, confidence, adaptability and emotional regulation (R1) (R6). Dogs were not designed to spend most of their lives isolated, over-stimulated, constantly corrected or deprived of natural outlets but unfortunately, many dogs are surviving on the equivalent of emotional junk food (R2) (R7). They may receive training, an abundance of toys, walks and affection, but still lack some of the deeper emotional nutrients that help them truly thrive.

​Sniffing, chewing, digging, exploring, appropriate barking, playing, foraging and investigating the environment are not meaningless behaviours, they are emotional nutrients. Natural behaviours help dogs decompress, release stress and excess energy, process information and regulate emotions. When dogs are constantly interrupted or punished for behaving like dogs, frustration builds. Many behaviour problems begin when dogs lose the healthy outlets required for normal canine behaviours (R8) (R9). For more information about meeting your dog’s needs see our section about the Canine Hierarchy Of Needs in our book Blueprint To A Happy Dog.

​One of the most overlooked emotional nutrients is autonomy. Dogs benefit from having some control over their environment and daily experiences. The ability to choose when and where to rest, when to engage or move away from someone and when and how to explore their environment can reduce stress significantly. A life built entirely around constant restraint and control can quickly drain emotional resilience (R7) (R12). For more information about autonomy see my articles entitled Why Dogs Need Freedom Of Choice and Autonomy & A Well Behaved Dog.

​Dogs need more than just physical sleep, they also need emotional rest. Many dogs live in environments filled with nonstop noise, stimulation, pressure and expectations and without sufficient decompression, the nervous system never fully settles. An emotionally nourished dog has plenty of opportunity to fully relax and nurture the vagus nerve without constantly being stimulated. (R2) (R13). For more information about the vagus nerve see Healing The Vagus Nerve In Dogs: Natural Ways To Reduce Anxiety & Promote Calmness.

​Emotional starvation does not always look sad. Sometimes it appears loud, chaotic, aggressive or completely shut down. A dog that’s emotionally undernourished can become hyperactive, reactive, clingy, restless, destructive, withdrawn or emotionally overwhelmed. These behaviours are often misunderstood as stubbornness or disobedience when in reality they can be signs that the dog is struggling emotionally and lacking the support, fulfilment, security or balance required to cope with daily life.

Many emotionally undernourished dogs also struggle with frustration tolerance, impulse control and difficulty adapting to change. These behaviours are frequently symptoms of emotional distress rather than personality or training flaws (R1) (R5). For more information about stress and anxiety see my article Stress & Anxiety In Dogs: How To Protect Your Dog’s Wellbeing.

Many guardians attempt to fix emotionally driven behaviours through stricter obedience or increased control, but training cannot compensate for emotional deprivation. A dog cannot thrive emotionally while living with chronic stress, confusion, isolation, fear, overstimulation or lack of fulfilment. This is why some dogs continue struggling in spite of understanding cues and signals. (R2) (R14).
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Positive training can help provide emotional nutrition, as it contributes to bonding, builds communication, confidence, trust, predictability and safety however, even positive training is only one piece of the puzzle. For information about positive training see my article Positive Dog Training: The Science, Ethics & Proven Results.

​Unless there are underlying health issues, when dogs are emotionally nourished, unwanted behaviours often change with no intervention. Dogs that are emotionally fulfilled tend to recover from stress more quickly, learn more efficiently, have better impulse control, cope with change more successfully and relax more easily. They tend to show fewer frustration and stress-based behaviours and are more emotionally stable overall (R1) (R6).
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Our goal when training should not be just about control, it should be about overall emotional wellbeing. Emotionally healthy dogs are not just easier to live with, they are happier, more resilient and better able to navigate our human-centric world (R3) (R15).

​(R1) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive reference on canine emotional health, stress, coping behavior, and behavioral disorders.
(R2) Horwitz, D., & Mills, D. (2009). BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioural Medicine (2nd ed.). British Small Animal Veterinary Association. Discusses stress, emotional responses, environmental influences, and canine behavioral wellness.
(R3) McMillan, F. D. (2017). Mental Health and Well-Being in Animals. CABI. Explores emotional resilience, welfare, and psychological health in animals.
(R4) Pryor, K. (2006). Don’t Shoot the Dog! The New Art of Teaching and Training (Rev. ed.). Bantam Books. Foundational work on positive reinforcement and behavior change.
(R5) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats. CattleDog Publishing. Discusses stress signals, fear responses, and humane behavior modification.
(R6) Beerda, B., Schilder, M. B. H., van Hooff, J. A. R. A. M., de Vries, H. W., & Mol, J. A. (1999). Chronic stress in dogs subjected to social and spatial restriction. Physiology & Behavior, 66(2), 233–242. Research examining the effects of restriction and chronic stress on dogs.
(R7) Bender, A., Strong, H., & Newberry, R. C. (2021). Effects of environmental enrichment on the behavior of dogs housed in kennels. Animals, 11(2), 563. Research on enrichment and canine welfare.
(R8) Horowitz, A. (2016). Being a Dog: Following the Dog Into a World of Smell. Scribner. Explains the importance of scent exploration and natural canine behaviors.
(R9) Hubrecht, R. C. (1995). Enrichment in puppyhood and its effects on later behavior of dogs. Laboratory Animals, 29(1), 70–76. Research related to enrichment and emotional stability.
(R10) Friedman, S. G. (2009). What’s wrong with this picture? Effectiveness is not enough. Good Bird Magazine, 5(2), 12–18. Discusses humane training and emotional welfare during learning.
(R11) Topál, J., Miklósi, Á., Csányi, V., & Dóka, A. (1998). Attachment behavior in dogs. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 112(3), 219–229. Study examining dog-human attachment relationships.
(R12) Rooney, N. J., Gaines, S. A., & Bradshaw, J. W. S. (2007). Behavioural and glucocorticoid responses of dogs to kennelling. Physiology & Behavior, 92(5), 847–854. Research on confinement, stress, and canine welfare.
(R13) Levine, E. D., Ramos, D., & Mills, D. S. (2007). A prospective study of two self-help CD based desensitization and counter-conditioning programmes with the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone for treatment of firework fears in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 105(4), 311–329. Discusses stress recovery and decompression.
(R14) Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs—A review. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 19, 50–60. Review of research examining aversive training and stress.
(R15) Hiby, E. F., Rooney, N. J., & Bradshaw, J. W. S. (2004). Dog training methods: Their use, effectiveness and interaction with behaviour and welfare. Animal Welfare, 13(1), 63–69. Study comparing training methods and canine welfare outcomes.
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Photo By Norma Jeanne Laurette

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​​Potty training also known as housebreaking or house training is one of the first and most important lessons for any new puppy. Dogs don’t instinctively know where you want them to eliminate or why, meaning that clear, positive and consistent training is essential.

​Dogs don’t understand right from wrong. Punishing a puppy for having an accident teaches it nothing, except that its person can be scary and unpredictable. It’s unfair and counterproductive, causes fear and damages the human/canine trust bond. It often causes dogs to hide when they need to go, making the house training process more difficult than it needs to be.

Instead, focus on prevention, supervision and rewarding the behavior you want. By repeating a successful pattern again and again over a period of time, eliminating outside becomes a deeply rooted habit. Remember that good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits.

​Punishment can cause stress, anxiety, fear and a myriad of behavioral problems including aggression. As frustrating as accidents can be, it’s crucial to remain calm in order to nurture your puppy’s trust and respect. For more information about the affects of punishment in training see our first book Blueprint To A Happy Dog.
Track Your ProgressTrack your progress by marking accident-free days on a calendar as well as the number of accidents in each day. Gradually increase the length of time between outside breaks by 10 minutes at a time after achieving a few accident-free days.

​Tips for Crate Success

• Choose the right size (room to stand and turn around only).
• Make it a comfortable “den” with bedding and chews.
• Feed meals and chews inside to associate it with positive experiences.
• Gradually increase duration only when your puppy is relaxed.​

​Some puppies panic when confined and respond better with more space. Passive paper training is another option when crate training isn’t suitable, such as for puppies that panic, high-energy puppies, puppies that soil the crate, when the puppy has to spend more than a very short period of time confined, etc.

Personally, I prefer passive paper training when I can’t watch my puppy because it’s less stressful for the pup. Set up an exercise pen or a secure, blocked off, puppy-proofed area (removing all inappropriate objects it could chew on). Cover the entire floor covered with newspaper and add a comfy bed, toys and chew options at one end. Gradually reduce the paper size over time as you achieve housebreaking success when the puppy is outside of the passive paper training area.

When it’s necessary to protect the floor under an exercise pen, place the exercise pen on top of a tarp with the edges of the tarp outside of the exercise pen to prevent the puppy from chewing on it.
For puppies that panic when alone, see my article Separation Anxiety.

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• Don’t leave food or water down because what goes in must come out. If the puppy is constantly eating and drinking, it will be constantly defecating and urinating, making it difficult to create a housebreaking schedule.
• After feeding, pick up the food bowl until the next meal, as well as if the puppy walks away without finishing its food.
• Offer drinks of water hourly to prevent dehydration and take the puppy out immediately after drinking. This will make it much easier to predict when the puppy will need to urinate.
• No food or water 2 to 3 hours before bedtime, as an empty puppy is less likely to have accidents or wake up because it needs to eliminate.
• Provide plenty of safe canine enrichment opportunities and appropriate chew toys when alone or confined.
• Take your puppy for a walk or play with it just before bed, as a tired puppy is more likely to sleep through the night.
• Be patient. Some puppies are housebroken within a few weeks, while others take months. Every dog is different and consistency is the key.
• If accidents persist or return after successful housebreaking, or the rate of urination increases, consult a veterinarian to eliminate physical causes, as well as a qualified, positive dog behavior expert to make sure you are not missing any important aspects of the potty training program.

For 50 canine enrichment ideas see my article Best Canine Enrichment Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention.

​(R1) Dunbar, Dr. Ian. Housetraining. James & Kenneth Publishers, 1986.
(R2) Dunbar, Dr. Ian. Housetraining Supplement. James & Kenneth Publishers, 1986.
(R3) International Animal Studies Behavior Course, 1994. (R4) Pryor, Karen. clickertraining.com/node/289.
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Photo By Norma Jeanne Laurette

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​The International Positive Dog Training Association is an elite professional organization dedicated to taking a stand against abuse in the name of dog training. IPDTA accomplishes this by promoting only humane, force-free and fear-free methods. It provides research findings about aversive tools, free educational materials, as well as a list of IPDTA certified, positive dog trainers worldwide. IPDTA also offers certification and membership for positive dog trainers, as well as an affiliate professional dog trainer, behaviour and aggression therapy certification career course for those who wish to become positive dog trainers.
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Founded in 2002, IPDTA was the first association in the world to focus exclusively on positive dog training, behaviour and aggression modification techniques, setting the global standard for ethical dog training practices without the use of coercion, intimidation, punishment or reprimands of any kind. IPDTA emphasizes scientifically proven and positive approaches to help dogs and their guardians build strong relationships based on mutual trust and respect, while nurturing well-trained dogs with great temperaments. www.IPDTA.org

​Norma Jeanne Laurette, a respected leader in the dog training industry, founded the International Positive Dog Training Association (IPDTA) in 2002. Norma Jeanne joined the Canadian Association Of Professional Pet Dog Trainers (CAPPDT) shortly after its inception in 1994. Over the years she contributed as a conference presenter, columnist and ultimately Editor-in-Chief. She remained with the organization until 2002, when she rescinded her membership after her request to take a stand against abuse in the name of dog training was rejected.

Immediately following her departure she founded the International Positive Dog Training Association (IPDTA), the first organization of its kind world-wide dedicated exclusively to force-free, positive dog training. This positioned IPDTA as the pioneer in establishing positive, ethical, fear-free standards across the international dog-training profession.

In 2009, CAPPDT changed their name to the Canadian Association Of Professional Dog Trainers (CAPDT). Since then, both CAPDT and the Association Of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT) have followed in IPDTA’s footsteps by formally opposing harsh methods. CAPDT released an updated Code of Ethics in 2021 banning strong aversive tools, and APDT approved a 2023 position statement defining dog-friendly training and implementing a full ban on intentional aversive tools and punishment-based methods (R8) (R9).

IPDTA remains the elite, specialized and mandated association that strictly prohibits aversive tools and techniques, and maintains its leadership as the first, force-free organization in the international dog-training industry. For more information about Norma Jeanne click here.

Our mission is to educate dog professionals and guardians worldwide by promoting humane, science-based, force-free training, encouraging lifelong learning, and strengthening the relationship between dogs and the people who care for them.

​The IPDTA stands out for its unwavering commitment to 100% positive dog training, distinguishing it from other organizations that support the LIMA approach, which stands for “least intrusive, minimally aversive”. LIMA theoretically allows for aversives as a last resort after exhausting less intrusive options. IPDTA stands by the belief that a properly educated trainer can solve any training or behaviour problem without resorting to coercion or discipline (R10).

​IPDTA – International Positive Dog Training Association - Founded 2002.
​The first elite, international positive dog training association with over 70 certified, positive dog trainer/members worldwide.

CCS – Canine Correspondence Studies - Founded 1994.
An internationally recognized and respected dog trainer certification career course with over 750 students and graduates in 18 countries.

​The International Positive Dog Training Association provides research findings for aversive tools as well as a growing series of educational articles free of charge. These articles emphasize positive training, behaviour and aggression therapy, ethology, learning theory, ethics and many other dog-related topics, all based on positive training and the latest psychological and scientific data.

​IPDTA defines abuse in dog training and behaviour modification as the use or misuse of any tool, technique or training method that intentionally causes or has a reasonable likelihood of causing unnecessary, physical injury, emotional distress, discomfort, pain or any other form of harm that compromise a dog’s physical safety or emotional wellbeing.

Grounded in the principles of operant conditioning established by B.F. Skinner, IPDTA promotes only scientifically proven dog training and behaviour modification practices that emphasize positive methods, voluntary participation and informed choice. The organization’s approach is centred on achieving lasting behavioural change through humane, ethical methods that nurture trust, confidence and positive outcomes, not through punishment or coercion (R1) (R3). The term “necessary” only applies when it’s necessary to handle a dog for health reasons, to keep it safe or save it from harm, or the mild exposure to a stimulus necessary when applying desensitization, counter conditioning, Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT), Behaviour Adjustment Training (BAT) and similar techniques.

IPDTA’s guiding principle is simple: “If you don’t want someone doing it to you, don’t do it to anyone else – animal or human.” Those who truly love dogs do not want to scare or hurt them. The use of coercion in dog training is not only unpleasant for the dog and counter productive to the learning process, it’s unnecessary and unacceptable, because positive dog training works.

​Positive Reinforcement (R+) WE USE THIS (R6) (R7)

The term positive reinforcement refers to adding something pleasant in order to increase the likelihood that a specific behaviour will reoccur.

Example: When the dog sits you give it a treat increasing the likelihood that the dog will sit.

Application: Adding something pleasant (treat) to increase the behaviour (sit).

Positive reinforcement is motivational as well as proactive in nature, resulting in a handler that exhibits benevolent leadership.

Positive Punishment (P+) WE DO NOT USE THIS (R6) (R7)

The term positive punishment refers to adding something unpleasant in order to decrease the likelihood that a specific behaviour will reoccur.

Example: When the dog wanders from heel it’s yanked by the neck back into position with a “pop-release” correction, decreasing the likelihood that the dog will move from heel position.

Application: Adding something unpleasant (yank) to decrease the behaviour (moving out of heel position).

We do not use this technique nor do we endorse any type of positive punishment. Since positive punishment is reactionary in nature, it does not demonstrate leadership but instead indicates that the trainer is reacting to the dog’s behaviour utilizing intimidation, fear and/or pain to stop unwanted behaviour.

Negative Reinforcement (R-) WE USE THIS ONLY AS DESCRIBED IN EXAMPLE B (R6) (R7)

The term negative reinforcement refers to removing something unpleasant in order to increase the likelihood that a specific behaviour will reoccur.

Example A: The dog will not take the dumbbell into its mouth. The trainer pinches the dog’s ear causing it to yelp due to fear and pain. When the dog’s mouth is open the trainer places the dumbbell inside. When the dog closes its mouth on the dumbbell the trainer releases the painful ear pinch.

Application: Removing something unpleasant (painful ear pinch) to increase the behaviour (taking and holding the dumbbell).

This method and similar methods are unnecessary and inhumane. We do not use this technique, nor do we endorse this type of negative reinforcement.

Example B: A dog that’s reactive to other dogs is walked at a distance where it notices the other dog but remains below threshold. As soon as the reactive dog responds to a cue or looks at the handler, the handler immediately increases the distance from the other dog, thereby removing the aversive stimulus.

Application: Removing something unpleasant (the other dog) to increase the behaviour (responding to cues and looking at the handler).

We use negative reinforcement techniques that are humane variations of desensitization, counter conditioning, the Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) and Behaviour Adjustment Training (BAT) techniques.

Negative Punishment (P-) WE USE THIS (R6) (R7)

The term negative punishment may sound unpleasant however, it refers to removing something pleasant in order to decrease the likelihood that a specific behaviour will reoccur.

Example: When the dog barks at a person for attention, the person turns away and withholds attention until the dog is quiet, at which time the person turns to face the dog and gives it attention, decreases the likelihood that the barking will reoccur.

Application: Removing something pleasant (attention) to decrease unwanted behaviour (barking).

Negative punishment is a humane, non-confrontational method that focuses on teaching the dog impulse control, by controlling a desired resource. This is an example of resource control, which is a key concept of positive training. For more information about resource control see my article Dominance – The Dirty Word Of Dog Training and our book Blueprint To A Happy Dog. For more information about learning theory see my article Positive Dog Training – Science | Ethics | Results.

Coercive training approaches are associated with significant risks including fear, chronic stress and anxiety, confusion, frustration, emotional distress and physical harm. These methods can also contribute to learned helplessness, defensive or redirected aggression and shutdown behaviours. They can also result in long-term harm to the human-canine trust bond and negatively impact a dog’s overall emotional wellbeing and quality of life.

IPDTA-certified dog trainers and members must adhere to strict professional standards that prohibit the use of aversive tools, including but not limited to choke chains, slip collars, pinch collars, shock equipment, spray products, shaker cans and high-frequency sound devices.

These standards also prohibit the use of intimidation, coercion, domination, force, or physical punishment of any kind, including but not limited to throwing objects, leash corrections, hanging, poking, kicking or hitting.
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Members are required to use only scientifically supported, positive, humane, reward-based training methods that promote emotional wellbeing, clear communication and lasting behavioural change while protecting the dog’s physical and emotional wellbeing. 

The International Positive Dog Training Association offers two options for IPDTA certification. Both options are available online and accessible worldwide.

Option One

The first option is through successful completion of the IPDTA comprehensive and practical testing examination, which includes 200 true/false and multiple-choice questions, as well as 15 practical training exercises to be submitted on video. A minimum average of 90% is required to earn a passing grade.

Designation Example: Alexander Steele, IPDTA-CDT (IPDTA Certified Dog Trainer)

For more information about the IPDTA Certification Examination & Fees visit www.IPDTA.org.

Option Two

The second option is through successful completion of the Canine Correspondence Studies (CCS) professional dog training, behaviour and aggression therapy certification career course for dog guardians who want to learn more about their dogs, aspiring dog trainers, and experienced dog trainers looking to improve their knowledge and skills.

The CCS examination includes three written exams, with a total of 125 true/false and multiple-choice questions, as well as 13 practical training exercises to be submitted on video. A minimum average of 90% is required to earn a passing grade.

Having earned CCS Certification, a CCS graduate who commit to using only 100% positive methods with both their canine and human clients is eligible to request a lifetime IPDTA Membership and Certification at no additional charge.

Designation Example: Alexander Steele, CTB.ccs, IPDTA-CDT
(Certified Dog Trainer/Behaviour Therapist of Canine Correspondence Studies & IPDTA Certified Dog Trainer)
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For more information about the CCS Certification Course and Fees click here.

​IPDTA is a professional membership association that offers IPDTA and CCS certification options. One of these two certifications, along with a demonstrated commitment to the use of positive methods only, is required to become an IPDTA member. These credentials are recognized as elite, internationally respected designations.

​IPDTA actively monitors and addresses any false claims of membership. It also responds promptly to inquiries regarding members who may be using tools or techniques deemed unacceptable by IPDTA. All such claims must be substantiated before action is taken. Through this oversight, IPDTA protects the integrity of the association, its members and those who hire dog trainers within our membership.

IPDTA certified dog trainers, CCS students and graduates consistently praise Norma Jeanne, IPDTA and CCS for their transformative impact.

“I was VERY happy to receive my score and certification diploma. I am very proud to be a member of IPDTA and being certified by an organization that I deeply respect is an honour. Thanks for being such a positive force in the dog training industry. You have shaped the futures of so many people and given a better life to so many dogs by your work. You are one of the people on this earth that truly make a difference. Thanks again!”

Jan Morgan, IPDTA-CDT – Pawsitive Puppies
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For Many More Testimonials visit click here.

(R1) Skinner, B.F. (1938). The Behavior of Organisms.
(R2) Pryor, K. (1999). Don’t Shoot the Dog.(R3) Skinner, B.F. (1953). Science and Human Behavior.
(R4) Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT) Position Statement on Humane Training Methods.
(R5) Chance, P. (2013). Learning and Behavior.
(R6) Lindsay, S. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 1.(R7) Skinner, B.F. (1953). Science and Human Behavior. Macmillan.
(R8) Pryor, K. (2006). Don’t Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training (Rev. ed.). Bantam Books.
(R9) https://capdt.ca/
(R10) https://apdt.com/
(R11) https://iaabc.org/about/lima

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​In the study of dog behaviour, one concept that explains sudden, unpredictable and exaggerated reactions is trigger stacking. This term refers to the accumulation of stressors (both minor and major) that build up over time, leading to a critical threshold where the dog can no longer cope. Once this threshold is crossed, even a seemingly minor event can provoke an overreaction in any dog such as barking, snarling, growling, lunging, biting or shutting down. Recognizing and managing trigger stacking is essential to helping dogs lead calmer, happier and more balanced lives, and to prevent the escalation of fear, aggression and other behaviour problems (R1).

​Trigger stacking occurs when multiple stressful events happen in a short period of time and the dog does not have enough time between them to recover. These events can be obvious such as a visit to the vet, being bullied by another dog or hearing fireworks, or they can be more subtle like a poor night’s sleep, hunger, changes in routine and even physical discomfort from a mild injury or underlying condition (R2). Each individual stressor contributes to the elevated arousal level, pushing the dog closer to its reactivity threshold.

Much like the person who’s had a tough day waking up late, no milk for their coffee and stop and go traffic, before over reacting to a minor comment – dogs can also experience a similar build up of stress that leads to “last straw” moments. It’s not just the last trigger that causes the dog to react, but instead, the accumulation of stress. Understanding this concept allows us to shift our perspective from labelling a dog as unpredictable or aggressive to recognizing its struggle to cope with a stack of unresolved stressors (R3).

​Dogs communicate their discomfort long before they escalate to reactive behaviours. These early signs, sometimes called “whispers” before the “shouts” include yawning, lip licking, turning away, whale eye, tension in the body and lowered tail, among others. If these signals are missed or ignored, the dog can progress to the previously mentioned canine stress responses (R4). For more information about signs of stress in dogs see my articles entitled Stress & Anxiety – Protecting Your Dog’s Health & Happiness,  Micro-Expressions In Dogs and Misunderstood Canine Communications.

Physiologically, trigger stacking activates the sympathetic nervous system, which controls the fight-or-flight response. As the dog experiences repeated stress without the ability to recover, cortisol levels rise, heart rate increases and the muscles become tense. Prolonged stress can compromise digestion, immunity and learning, leading to chronic behavioural and health problems (R5). For more information about the sympathetic nervous system see my article Healing The Vagus Nerve For A Calmer Dog.

Trigger stacking can occur in any dog, but is especially common in reactive, fearful and under-socialized dogs. Dogs recovering from trauma, those living in hectic environments, exposed to rough handling, neglect or abuse are particularly vulnerable. Without proper management, these dogs often exist in a state of hyper-vigilance, reacting quickly and intensely to everyday stimuli (R6).

​By being aware of what the dog is experiencing and learning to recognize these and other layers of stressors, guardians can modify routines, environments and handling strategies to reduce cumulative stress. Understanding daily patterns that contribute to trigger stacking is key to prevention. Some examples include:

Back-To-Back Exposure To Stressors
A dog is startled by thunder in the morning, taken to the vet in the afternoon then reprimanded by its guardian in the evening.

Lack Of Decompression
Dogs that live in urban environments constantly hearing sirens and other sounds, meeting new dogs and people while on tight leashes and never having enough quiet time to relax.

Multiple Social Interactions
A dog that experiences too much stimulation at once or meets too many dogs or people at the same time, such as a party or group hike can become overwhelmed even if each individual encounter seemed positive.

Health-Related Stress
Pain, fatigue and hunger can lower a dog’s stress tolerance. For example, a dog with arthritis could react strongly when bumped by someone, even if it’s normally very tolerant (R7).

Training Overload
Well-meaning guardians can unintentionally stack stress by training too long or working on multiple cues or behaviours without taking breaks, especially in stimulating environments.

​Certain dog breeds are more prone to trigger stacking due to their genetic predispositions for high alertness, sensitivity to stimuli and protective instincts. Herding breeds such as Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, Shelties and Corgis can be more susceptible because of their intense drive to notice and react to movement and environmental changes. Guarding and protection breeds such as German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Dobermans and Boxers tend to stack triggers more quickly when sensing unfamiliar people or perceived threats to their territory or family. Terriers and some other small breeds including Jack Russells, Chihuahuas and Yorkies can also be quicker to accumulate stress due to their feisty nature, high energy and sometimes heightened sense of vulnerability (R13).

​Preventing trigger stacking begins with learning the individual dog’s stress signals and thresholds. Each dog has a different capacity for stimuli and what barely registers for one can be overwhelming for another. Guardians and trainers should create a “stress budget,” considering how many triggers the particular dog should have to handle in a given day or week, and allow for sufficient calm decompression between events (R8).

Decompression

Decompression is one of the most effective tools to reduce trigger stacking. It refers to unstructured, pleasant, low-stimulation activities including canine enrichment options such as sniff walks, calm off-leash time in a secure area or chewing and licking activities such as puzzles, food stuffed nylabones or snuffle mats. These behaviours activate the parasympathetic nervous system, which helps the body return to a state of calm (R9). For information about the parasympathetic nervous system see my article Healing The Vagus Nerve For A Calmer Dog. For more information about canine enrichment options, see my article entitled Canine Enrichment For Dogs.

Routine

Routine also plays a major role in maintaining a calm nervous system. Dogs thrive on predictability and stable routines to help reduce stress by making the world feel safer, more predictable and manageable. Maintaining consistent routines gives a dog the stability required to support their emotional wellbeing.

Environmental Management

Environmental management is equally important. For dogs that are sensitive to visual stimuli, window film or barriers can reduce exposure to daily triggers caused by dogs, people and vehicles passing by outside. For those triggered by everyday sounds, calming music or white noise can help mask sudden or disturbing noises to create a more relaxed environment. For dogs that react to other dogs or people on walks, choosing low-traffic times and quieter routes can minimize exposure to prevent reactivity from escalating during outings. Management of a dog’s surroundings helps reduce stress and anxiety, prevents repeated rehearsal of unwanted behaviours and creates opportunities for the dog to experience more calm and positive interactions within its surroundings.

Pattern games, such as those created by Leslie McDevitt can be helpful in redirecting focus and providing structure in arousing environments. They include reward-based activities that create predictable routines to help reduce uncertainty, lower arousal and improve emotional regulation in stimulating environments (R11).

1-2-3 Walking
The dog receives a treat every time the handler reaches the count of three.

Up/Down
The dog alternates between looking at a trigger and returning its attention to the ground for a tossed treat.

Ping Pong
The dog moves predictably back and forth between two people or locations for reinforcement.

Super Bowls
Treats are delivered in a consistent location to create calm anticipation.

Look At That (LAT)
The dog is rewarded for calmly noticing a trigger and then voluntarily looking back at the handler.
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For dogs with chronic reactivity or anxiety, it may be necessary to work with a qualified, positive canine behaviour expert to get you on the right track. In some cases, holistic remedies might help support a dog’s ability to learn and cope by reducing baseline anxiety and helping to prevent over-threshold reactions (R12). For a list of holistic remedies for reducing stress see my article Stress & Anxiety – Protecting Your Dog’s Health & Happiness.

​Managing trigger stacking requires a shift in mindset. Guardians must move away from expectations in challenging environments and instead support their dog’s emotional needs. This includes saying no to situations the dog is not ready for, giving it space and time to recover from each stress and prioritizing mental health over performance. By observing patterns, adjusting expectations and supporting a dog’s nervous system and emotional wellbeing, guardians become advocates for their dogs by reducing cumulative stress. With time, consistency and compassion, dogs once overwhelmed by stacked triggers can begin to approach the world with greater calm, confidence, resilience and stability.

​(R1) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.
(R2) McConnell, P. (2003). The Cautious Canine: How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears. Dogwise Publishing.
(R3) Donaldson, J. (2005). Culture Clash: A Revolutionary New Way to Understanding the Relationship Between Humans and Domestic Dogs. Dogwise Publishing.
(R4) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behaviour Modification of Dogs & Cats. CattleDog Publishing.
(R5) Beerda, B., Schilder, M. B. H., van Hooff, J. A. R. A. M., et al. (1998). Behavioural, saliva cortisol and heart rate responses to different types of stimuli in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 58(3–4), 365–381.
(R6) Dehasse, J. (2001). Fear and fear-related problems in dogs: A review. The Canadian Veterinary Journal, 42(4), 278–281.
(R7) Landsberg, G. M., Hunthausen, W. L., & Ackerman, L. J. (2012). Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat (3rd ed.). Saunders Elsevier.
(R8) Hiby, E. F., Rooney, N. J., & Bradshaw, J. W. S. (2004). Dog training methods: Their use, effectiveness and interaction with behaviour and welfare. Animal Welfare, 13(1), 63–69.
(R9) Buzhardt, L. (2018). Enrichment for Dogs: Meeting the Needs of Canine Minds. Veterinary Partner. https://veterinarypartner.vin.com/
(R10) Miller, P. (2008). The Power of Positive Dog Training. Howell Book House.
(R11) McDevitt, L. (2015). Control Unleashed: Reactive to Relaxed. Clean Run Productions.
(R12) Sherman, B. L., & Mills, D. S. (2008). Canine anxieties and phobias: An update on separation anxiety and noise aversions. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 38(5), 1081–1106.
(R13) Landsberg, G. M., Hunthausen, W. L., & Ackerman, L. J. (2012). Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat (3rd ed.). Saunders Elsevier.

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​I stopped using the term “command” decades ago because it does not reflect the principles behind positive training. The difference between a cue and a command is that a cue signals an opportunity to earn reinforcement, while a command implies an order backed by the threat of consequences if the dog does not comply (R7). In traditional training models, commands are associated with avoidance-based learning, where the dog responds to prevent or stop something unpleasant from happening (R7).

Positive training does not rely on coercion, intimidation, force, fear or pain (R8). Instead, it’s based on scientifically proven methods that emphasize motivation, guidance and reinforcement, following a “Don’t Punish – Teach” philosophy (R8). For more information about positive training see my article Positive Training – Science | Ethics | Results.

​​A cue becomes “poisoned” when a dog begins to associate it with something unpleasant – even if it only happens occasionally or is only mildly aversive (R5). It occurs when cues are sometimes followed by positive outcomes, while at other times by negativity or corrections (R5). Over time, the cue itself is no longer trusted and results in hesitation, avoidance, stress and/or fear, instead of the desired behavior (R5).

The term “poisoned cue” was coined by behavioral scientist Karen Pryor, describing how inconsistent cues create confusion. When a dog cannot predict whether a cue will lead to something pleasant or unpleasant, the cue loses its reliability and becomes something the dog actively avoids.

For this reason, “balanced training” that uses both reinforcement and punishment is not only counterproductive to the learning process because the dog receives unclear and conflicting information, it can also harm the dog’s temperament, emotional wellbeing and the human–canine trust bond.

​Cues can become poisoned after a single traumatic or highly aversive experience if the event is intense and directly associated with the cue. This is an example of one-event-learning, where a strong emotional experience very quickly creates a lasting and unpleasant association (R1).

However, poisoned cues are not usually caused by one event. Instead, they develop through repeated experiences where at times the cue predicts something the dog perceives as pleasant and at other times leads to something unpleasant (R2).

Examples

Unintended Consequences – Calling a dog then immediately ending its fun, such as leaving the park or putting it on leash.

Mixed Emotional Experiences – Using a cue in both pleasant and unpleasant contexts.

Punishment After Compliance – Calling a dog, then scolding it and/or putting it on leash for not coming fast enough or for something it did before calling it.

Overuse Without Reinforcement – Repeating a cue without rewarding the correct response frequently enough.
Rewards should be given after every correct response when introducing a new cue. Once the cue is learned, the trainer should switch to intermittent reinforcement, which means only rewarding the dog often enough to keep it motivated and trying to earn the reward. This is the same concept used by psychologists who program slot machines to pay off only enough to keep the player pulling the lever.

Dogs learn through classical conditioning, meaning they learn by making associations. If those associations shift even slightly toward unpleasant experiences, the dog begins to lose trust in the cue, the handler and what will happen after responding, because it can no longer reliably predict a positive outcome.

​If someone called you and when you reached them you were sometimes yelled at and other times offered a piece of chocolate, how would that affect your willingness to respond next time? Most people would become hesitant and wary. Dogs learn in exactly the same way. Every interaction either strengthens or weakens the reliability of a cue, depending on the emotional outcome that follows it. Inconsistent, unpredictable and unpleasant consequences can quickly poison a cue, turning it into one the dog learns to distrust and avoid. With patience, consistency and a strong commitment to positive training, you can build clear, reliable cues that strengthen trust, respect and the special emotional bond you share with your dog.

(R1) Pryor, K. (2009). Reaching the animal mind. Scribner. Explains how associations influence animal learning and behavior.
(R2) McConnell, P. (2002). The other end of the leash. Ballantine Books. Discusses how dogs interpret human cues and emotional context.
(R3) Bradshaw, J. (2011). Dog sense. Basic Books. Explores canine cognition and the impact of training methods on behavior.
(R4) Yin, S. (2009). Low stress handling, restraint, and behavior modification of dogs and cats. CattleDog Publishing. Provides practical guidance on reinforcement-based training and behavior modification.
(R5) Pryor, K. (2009). Reaching the Animal Mind: Clicker Training and What It Teaches Us About All Animals. Scribner.
(R6) Pryor, K. (2002). Don’t Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training (Revised ed.). Bantam.
(R7) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training (Vols. 1–3). Wiley-Blackwell.
(R8) Ziv, G. (2017). The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs—A review. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 19, 50–60.
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Photo By Freepik.com

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​I’ve always said that one of the things I love about living with dogs is that I can make their lives everything mine can’t be – free from worry, fear, responsibility, and the pressures of living in a challenging and often cruel world. If reincarnation were real, I’d want to come back as one of my dogs – happy, carefree, loved, and with all my needs met.
​
There are things we can control and things we can’t, but with a thoughtful and positive approach to our dogs’ wellbeing, their lives can be remarkably simple and deeply fulfilling. Unlike us, navigating complex physical, social, political, financial, and emotional demands, when bred and raised properly, dogs can enjoy lives relatively free from stress. Although they have good memories, their lives are largely grounded in the present and when we do it right, each day can be filled with moments of joy (R1).

​Proper breeding, early positive socialization and training, sufficient exercise and mental stimulation, a natural and balanced diet, and a strong bond built on mutual trust and respect form the foundation of a happy, well-adjusted dog. When puppies are raised in environments that meet all their needs, they grow into adults that can confidently navigate our human-centric world. These early experiences shape everything from temperament and behaviour to resilience and confidence and when done properly, most issues that might otherwise compromise a dog’s long-term wellbeing can be prevented (R2). For more information about a natural and balanced diet, see my articles Canine Nutrition – Essential For Your Dog’s Health & Longevity and Canine Nutrition – Raw For Dogs.

Well-raised dogs understand that they are safe. They learn self-control, boundaries and routines, develop desirable behaviours and stable temperaments, and build healthy, trusting relationships with the people and other pets in their home. They also learn to feel comfortable around new dogs and people. This sense of stability is the cornerstone of a happy dog’s life.

When a dog’s needs are consistently met, it helps prevent fear, stress, anxiety, reactivity, aggression and a myriad of other problems. With these essential elements in place, life is not only safe, it’s predictably satisfying and enjoyable. The world shifts from something to be feared to something to explore and embrace (R3).

Providing proper enrichment is essential to a dog’s overall wellbeing. Mental stimulation through training, play, puzzles and safe exploration keeps dogs engaged and curious. Physical exercise supports both health and emotional stability, while socialization helps dogs navigate their environment with confidence. Exposure to new, controlled experiences enhances quality of life by preventing boredom and reducing stress-related behaviours. When combined with routine, rest, love and affection, these elements create a lifestyle that is both structured and dynamic.

Canine enrichment gives dogs a sense of achievement while building intelligence and problem-solving skills. It provides essential mental stimulation, boosts confidence, promotes emotional balance, reduces stress, prevents boredom and improves focus. All of this supports overall behavioural stability and wellbeing, which are key ingredients in raising a calm, happy and balanced dog.

The role of the guardian cannot be overstated because we are the architects of our dogs’ life experience. A simple home can become a safe and enriching environment, a hike can become an opportunity for exploration and connection, and a favourite chew can provide genuine pleasure. Every interaction shapes a dog’s emotional stability and overall wellbeing (R2). For more on this topic, see my article Canine Enrichment For Dogs.

One of the most admirable features of a well-raised dog’s life is their ability to live fully in the moment. While people often dwell on the past and worry about the future, dogs experience each moment as it comes. Simple pleasures such as a soft touch, a favourite chew, a game of fetch or a walk in the forest can capture their full attention and be enjoyed completely. Even enrichment activities and short training sessions can become deeply engaging experiences.

For well-raised dogs, unavoidable stressful moments such as brief separation from their people are temporary and quickly dismissed once things return to normal. An emotionally balanced dog is resilient and takes life in stride (R2). This natural mindfulness acts as a built-in form of emotional regulation, allowing dogs to move easily between activity, rest, and social interaction while maintaining balance. Although dogs have excellent memories, particularly for people, places, routines and learned behaviours, they do not dwell on them the way humans do. A dog may remember a favourite friend, a familiar trail or anticipate daily routines with remarkable accuracy, but these memories rarely pull them away from the present moment.

Unlike people, a properly raised dog’s memory functions as a guide rather than a burden. They learn from past experiences without becoming emotionally stuck in them – unless those experiences were traumatic. As a result, they remain grounded, centred and resilient, and able to return quickly to the present moment of play, rest or companionship. This balance of strong memory and present-moment awareness is one of the most enviable aspects of canine cognition (R2) (R3) and one that many people strive to achieve.

This simplicity is also why dogs play such a powerful therapeutic role in our lives. Watching them move through each day without grudges, resentment or worry highlights the value of simplicity and being present. Even resting in a sunbeam or sleeping after exercise reflects comfort and contentment. When supported by proper care, this creates what could be considered an ideal daily rhythm (R3).

Dogs with little or no socialization and those that have experienced trauma, abuse, neglect or repeated negative experiences can develop strong fear-based responses, heightened anxiety and behaviours similar to trauma-related conditions often compared to PTSD in humans. These dogs may startle easily, become hyper-vigilant, experience disturbed sleep and struggle to trust new environments, people or other animals.

However, with the right support, recovery is possible. Through consistent structure and routine, kind and gentle handling, gradual and careful re-socialization, and positive training and experiences, their nervous systems can begin to re-regulate. Over time, many dogs rebuild confidence, form secure attachments and regain emotional balance. Supporting recovery can also include helping regulate the vagus nerve, which plays a key role in emotional stability. This kind of rehabilitation is something those working with rescue dogs witness every day. For more on this, see my article Healing The Vagus Nerve For A Calmer Dog.

Research in canine behaviour has proven that both early and later-life experiences shape stress resilience, while also confirming that dogs retain a strong capacity for neuroplastic recovery when given the right support (R2) (R3). With patience, consistency and a stable environment, dogs can move from fear-based reactivity toward renewed trust, curiosity and resilience. For more on this topic, see my article Stress & Anxiety – Protecting Your Dog’s Health & Happiness.

​Many people are drawn to dogs because they represent something humans often struggle to achieve – simplicity and contentment. Modern life is filled with pressure, uncertainty, responsibility and constant noise from around us, our minds, cell phones and online. Dogs in the right hands live in a world where their needs are met, routines are predictable, and each day is filled with simple pleasures and quiet peace.

This contrast is a powerful part of the human–canine bond. Through responsible guardianship, structured care and a positive mindset, we can create a life for our dogs that is as free from stress as possible. In doing so, we often experience a reflected sense of contentment as their happiness becomes something we feel alongside them (R4).

Dogs also respond to care in deeply rewarding ways. They thrive on consistency, affection and clear communication, offering trust, companionship, loyalty and unconditional love in return. This reciprocal relationship reinforces why dogs are often described as masters of living in the moment – they don’t just live this way, they teach us by example (R4). For more information on a dog’s ability to experience love, see my article Are Dogs Capable Of Love?

​I’ve learned more about living a calm, happy and peaceful life from my dogs than from any person. They teach us to be present, grounded and resilient, and to find joy and gratitude in the simplest things. They show us the value of simplicity in ways we often struggle to understand.

Watching a dog take satisfaction in a meal, a comfortable resting place, or a snuggle invites us to reconsider what happiness really means. Their happiness doesn’t come from ambition or accumulation, but from stability, connection and daily engagement with their environment. This model of contentment is one of the most powerful reasons people are drawn to dogs, and one of the most valuable lessons they offer (R1) (R3).

​Our dogs’ days are shaped by natural rhythms – eating, resting, playing, exploring and connecting, while remaining grounded in the present moment. In many ways, they are living the life we’re constantly longing for. By giving our dogs this peaceful and fulfilling existence, we do more than meet their needs, we create an environment where wellbeing feels natural and sustainable. In return, they offer not only companionship and unconditional love, but a powerful reminder of what it means to live well – with less worry, more presence and a deeper appreciation for life’s simple moments. When we slow down and join our dogs in the present, we can begin to embrace their calm, grounded, Zen-like approach to life. When you gaze into your dog’s eyes, allow yourself to be drawn into that quiet, simple world we all deserve.

​(R1) Bradshaw, J. (2011). Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You A Better Friend to Your Pet. Basic Books. A science-based exploration of canine cognition, memory, and emotional life.
(R2) Serpell, J., & Jagoe, J. A. (2016). The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behavior and Interactions with People. Cambridge University Press. Academic overview of canine development, behaviour, and the impact of early socialization on stress and temperament.
(R3) Horowitz, A. (2010). Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know. Scribner. A detailed look at canine perception, memory, and present-moment awareness.
(R4) Miklósi, Á. (2015). Dog Behaviour, Evolution, and Cognition. Oxford University Press. Research-based discussion of human–dog bonding, communication, and domestication effects on behaviour.

Photo By Norma Jeanne Laurette

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​Occasionally allowing the dog to investigate a distraction, greet the person or play with a suitable dog after demonstrating self-control can be a powerful motivator. “Occasionally” is key, as the dog should not learn that access will be granted every time. In many situations, investigating and greeting may not be safe or appropriate and if the dog begins to expect it consistently, self-control will quickly diminish. The goal is to reinforce the choice to remain calm and disengaged, not to create an expectation of access. When applied properly, this approach helps the dog maintain reliability in distracting environments, while understanding that self-restraint could lead to opportunity, but only when permitted.

This is an example of intermittent reinforcement, which means only rewarding the dog often enough to keep it motivated and trying to earn the reward. This is the same concept used by psychologists who program slot machines to pay off only enough to keep the player pulling the lever.

(R1) Pryor, K. (2009). Don’t Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training. Bantam. Explains reinforcement-based training and the development of attention and engagement in animals.
(R2) Burch, M., & Bailey, J. (1999). How Dogs Learn. Howell Book House. Provides scientific explanations of learning theory and competing reinforcers in dog training.
(R3) McConnell, P. (2002). The Other End of the Leash. Ballantine Books. Discusses communication, impulse control, and how dogs respond to environmental stimuli.
(R4) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Describes behavioural modification strategies and structured training approaches for dogs.
(R5) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier.
​
Photo By Vecteezy.com

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Dog guardians are familiar with the comforting sight of a dog curled up in a ball or splayed with all four paws in the air. Dogs spend a substantial amount of their lives sleeping and healthy sleep is just as essential to their physical and emotional wellbeing as it is for ours. Like people, dogs can experience sleep disturbances that affect the quality of their rest and in some cases, their safety and overall health. Understanding these conditions helps guardians recognize when unusual sleep patterns are harmless and when they might signal underlying health issues (R1).

​Sleep plays an important role in memory, immune function and emotional stability. During sleep, the brain processes experiences and flushes out metabolic waste, while the body repairs tissues and energy reserves are restored (R2). When dogs sleep well, they tend to be more emotionally stable, responsive to training and physically healthy. On the other hand, chronic sleep disruptions can contribute to irritability, decreased learning ability and health problems.

​Guardians can promote healthy sleep for their dogs by creating conditions that support relaxation. Effective strategies include a natural and healthy diet, regular daily exercise and mental stimulation through canine enrichment and training. It also includes consistent routines, feeding and sleep schedules, a quiet, dark and comfortable sleep area and managing any pain or health issues that could interfere with rest. For information about canine enrichment and nutrition see my articles Canine Enrichment For Dogs, Canine Nutrition – Essential For Your Dog’s Health & Longevity and Canine Nutrition – Raw For Dogs.

​Before discussing sleep disorders, it helps to understand what normal sleep looks like for our dogs. Adult dogs typically sleep between 12 and 14 hours per day, although this can vary depending on age, breed, activity level and health status (R2). Puppies and senior dogs can sleep even longer.

Dogs sleep cycles are similar to humans in that they include:
​

• Light sleep, where the dog can awaken easily
• Deep sleep, when the body fully relaxes
• REM sleep (rapid eye movement), dreaming

During REM sleep, dogs can twitch, move their legs, vocalize and flutter their eyes and ears. These behaviours are normal and reflect brain activity associated with dreaming (R3). Because dogs enter REM sleep more frequently but for shorter periods of time than humans, their sleep can appear more fragmented. When sleep cycles are healthy, dogs wake up refreshed and alert, but when the cycles are disrupted, behavioural and medical problems can arise.

Behaviours that are a normal part of canine sleep yet may concern some guardians include twitching or paddling legs, whining, yipping or barking, ear and eye flicking and quick body jerks. These movements usually occur during REM sleep and reflect dream activity (R3). Unless the behaviour becomes extreme or causes injury or other problems, it’s normal and nothing to worry about.

 (R33) (R34)​​
For people like us who always research holistic options when suitable, below is a list of possibilities.

Disclaimer:

Like any choice of treatment, holistic and natural remedies for supporting sleep in dogs should always be approached with caution as even “natural” products can cause adverse effects. Some lack strong scientific evidence as they have not been properly researched and some carry risks such as gastrointestinal upset, sedation, drug interactions or limited effectiveness and should be used under the guidance of a licensed holistic veterinarian. Safety, dosage and suitability vary based on a dog’s age, breed, size, health status and other medications. Always consult a professional before using melatonin (which must be xylitol-free as it’s highly toxic to dogs), CBD oil, herbs or aromatherapy. Many essential oils are also toxic to dogs, including, but not limited to tea tree, peppermint, cinnamon, citrus, pine, and wintergreen. Even those considered safer must be heavily diluted, never applied directly to the dog, kept out of reach and used with extreme caution. This information is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional holistic or conventional veterinary advice.
These holistic options are aimed at promoting nervous system balance, relaxation and better sleep quality for dogs.
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• A natural, balanced diet supports overall health, gut function and helps maintain energy and sleep patterns.
• Feeding a diet rich in antioxidants can reduce harmful oxidative stress and strengthen the connection between the gut and the brain.
• Omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil) support brain and nervous system health.
• Regular exercise and a consistent routine keep dogs healthy and support overall wellness.
• Minimizing stress as much as possible can have a big affect on health, behaviour and sleep.
• A gentle evening wind-down including light massage or puzzle toys can help avoid overstimulation before bed.
• Calming music, white noise or aromatherapy can create a relaxing pre-sleep environment.
• Melatonin can help regulate sleep cycles.
• CBD oil can calm the nervous system and ease restlessness. Always use a product specifically made for pets.
• L-Theanine is a gentle amino acid that promotes calm without heavy sedation.
• Chamomile or passionflower, offered as cooled, diluted teas or tinctures, can nurture relaxation.
• Valerian root is another herbal option to support calmer sleep.
• Magnesium glycinate naturally relaxes muscles and nerves.
• Acupuncture or Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine herbal formulas can help with neurological balance and stress reduction.
• Bach Rescue Remedy or flower essences are believed by some to help provide emotional calm and reduce stress.
• Probiotics support the gut-brain connection, which can influence mood and sleep.
• Passionflower can help ease tension and restlessness.
• Medicinal mushrooms (Reishi, Lion’s Mane) can help with nervous system and immune support as well as canine cognitive dysfunction.

​If a dog is experiencing extreme and unusual sleep patterns, veterinary evaluation can help identify or eliminate the possibility of physiological or pharmaceutical contributors. This is especially important if a dog suddenly collapses when excited, moves violently or for a long period of time during sleep, wakes frequently during the night, has loud or interrupted breathing while sleeping or shows notable changes in behaviour linked to sleep. Identifying potential issues early can make a big difference in a dog’s health and comfort.

​Although dogs are known for their ability to nap almost anywhere at any time, healthy sleep is not something we can always take for granted. Even though most sleep behaviours such as twitching paws, vocalizations or shifting positions are normal parts of the sleep cycle, persistent and extreme disturbances can interfere with restorative rest and may require veterinary attention. By understanding normal sleep patterns and recognizing potential warning signs, guardians can ensure their dogs receive the deep, healing sleep necessary for a healthy and happy life.

(R1) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive resource on canine behaviour, neurological conditions, and sleep disturbances.
(R2) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2013). Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat. Saunders. Discusses normal canine sleep patterns and behavioural causes of sleep disruption.
(R3) Siegel, J. M. (2005). Clues to the functions of mammalian sleep. Nature, 437(7063), 1264–1271. Research explaining REM sleep and dream-related muscle activity.
(R4) Mignot, E., Tafti, M., Dement, W., & Grumet, F. (1995). Narcolepsy and immunity. Sleep, 18(9), 757–765. Describes genetic and neurological factors involved in narcolepsy in dogs and humans.
(R5) Mahowald, M. W., & Schenck, C. H. (2005). Insights from studying human sleep disorders applied to animal sleep behaviour. Sleep Medicine Reviews, 9(4), 251–267. Explains REM behaviour disorders and sleep movement disorders.
(R6) Hendricks, J. C. (1992). Brachycephalic airway syndrome and sleep-disordered breathing in dogs. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 201(4), 609–612. Discusses sleep apnea and respiratory obstruction in short-nosed breeds.
(R7) Schenck, C. H., Mahowald, M. W. (2002). Insights into canine sleepwalking and parasomnias. Elsevier. Overview of non-REM sleepwalking in dogs and its presentation.
(R8) Howell, T. J., Bennett, P. C. (2011). Sleep behaviour and REM disorder in domestic dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 6(5), 279–285. Discusses REM sleep behaviour disorder and its manifestations.
(R9) Miller, L., & Hoffman, J. (2015). Distinguishing canine sleep disorders: sleepwalking vs. REM behaviour. Veterinary Clinics: Small Animal Practice, 45(4), 777–790. Compares sleepwalking and REM sleep disorders in dogs.
(R10) Medleau, L., & Hnilica, K. (2010). Small Animal Neurology. Elsevier. Overview of neurological sleep disorders in dogs.
(R11) Miller, M. W., & Dewey, C. W. (2001). Narcolepsy and cataplexy in dogs. Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 15(2), 140–145. Clinical features and triggers of narcolepsy in dogs.
(R12) Dodman, N. H., & Shuster, L. (2000). Behavioural management of narcolepsy in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 30(2), 421–430. Strategies to reduce triggers and improve safety.
(R13) Rishniw, M., & Packer, R. M. (2013). Pharmacological management of narcolepsy in dogs. Journal of Small Animal Practice, 54(12), 636–642. Review of medications used to control narcolepsy episodes.
(R14) Platt, S. R., & Olby, N. J. (2013). BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Neurology (4th ed.). British Small Animal Veterinary Association. Guidance on diagnosis, management, and treatment options for canine narcolepsy.
(R15) Schenck, C. H., Bundlie, S. R., Ettinger, M. G., & Mahowald, M. W. (1986). Chronic behavioural disorders of human REM sleep: a new category of parasomnia. Sleep, 9(2), 293–308. Study describing REM sleep behaviour disorders and treatment approaches.
(R16) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Overview of medications used to treat RBD in dogs.
(R17) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Discussion of non-pharmacological approaches to reduce RBD episodes in dogs.
(R18) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Review of canine sleep disorders including sleepwalking.
(R19) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Recommendations for managing sleepwalking through environmental and routine adjustments.
(R20) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Overview of when medication might be considered for canine sleepwalking.
(R21) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Overview of canine insomnia symptoms and prevalence.
(R22) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Discussion of non-pharmacological interventions for insomnia in dogs.
(R23) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Review of pharmacological treatments for canine insomnia.
(R24) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Overview of sleep apnea signs and diagnosis in dogs.
(R25) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Discussion of treatments targeting underlying causes of sleep apnea.
(R26) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Non-surgical strategies to improve breathing and sleep quality in dogs with apnea.
(R27) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Description of periodic limb movements and restless sleep in canines.
(R28) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Strategies for improving sleep quality and reducing limb movements in dogs.
(R29) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Overview of pharmacological options for treating periodic limb movements in dogs.
(R30) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Overview of age-related sleep changes in dogs.
(R31) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Discussion of health factors contributing to sleep changes in older dogs.
(R32) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Recommendations for supporting restful sleep in senior dogs.
(R33) Landsberg, G., et al. (2012). Cognitive dysfunction syndrome: A disease of canine and feline brain aging. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 42(4), 749–768.
(R34) Schork, I. G., et al. (2022). How environmental conditions affect sleep? An investigation in domestic dogs (Canis lupus familiaris). Animals, 12(11), 1400. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani12111400
(R35) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2013). Behaviour problems of the dog and cat (3rd ed.). Saunders Elsevier. Overview of how lifestyle factors such as insufficient exercise, lack of mental stimulation, stress, anxiety, and inconsistent routines contribute to behavioural issues and disrupted sleep patterns in dogs.
(R36) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2013). Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat. Saunders. Discusses circadian rhythm disruptions and their association with cognitive dysfunction and environmental factors.
(R37) Horwitz, D., & Mills, D. (2009). BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioural Medicine. British Small Animal Veterinary Association. Covers behavioural and environmental strategies for managing sleep–wake cycle disorders.
(R38) Overall, K. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Reviews treatment approaches including routine regulation and pharmacological support for sleep disturbances.
(R39) Foyer, P., Wilsson, E., & Jensen, P. (2014) Dog behaviour and trauma: Effects on sleep patterns. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 153, 53–60.
(R40) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2012) Behaviour problems of the dog and cat. Saunders Elsevier. Discussion of nightmares and sleep disturbance in dogs.
(R41) McCobb, E., Patronek, G., & Marder, A. (2005) Pain, illness, and sleep disruption in companion animals. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association, 41(6), 293–300.

Photo By Freepik.com

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​Dogs communicate primarily through body language, facial expressions and vocalizations, and when we learn to read these signals, understanding dogs can become almost effortless. However, even experienced guardians and trainers sometimes get it wrong. The truth is that canine communication can be extremely subtle, and recognizing these nuances is essential for a strong relationship with our dogs based on accurate understanding (R1).

Dogs use their entire bodies to communicate – their ears, eyes, mouth, face, nose, paws, body, movement, tail and vocal signals all work together. For example, a wagging tail doesn’t always mean the dog is happy in fact, dogs with wagging tails have bitten many people and some dogs will wag their tails right up to the bite. The wag can indicate many different things depending on the type of wag, situation, and what the rest of the body is saying. The key is to read the whole dog, not just one signal and even then, interpretation isn’t always easy (R3). Dogs have evolved into subtle communicators and the same behaviour can mean many different things depending on context.

Dogs don’t communicate in single signals, they communicate in clusters. A yawning dog with a loose body and soft eyes is relaxed. The same yawn paired with a tense body and avoidance indicates stress. Context is everything and so is the individual dog as no two dogs communicate exactly the same (R3). Personality, genetics, breed tendencies and life experience all shape how each dog communicates. Some dogs are subtle, while are others expressive but the more you observe, the clearer each individual dog’s communication style becomes. To accurately read and understand what a dog is communicating, you need to look at the entire dog, what each part of the body is saying, and put it into context with the dog’s history and current environment.

​
​EARS 
​
Note: Ear carriage varies widely depending on whether the dog has floppy or erect ears. 

Ears Pinned Back
Fear, appeasement, uncertainty, stress, pain, nausea
Note: Loose signals indicate appeasement/submission, while tight/flat indicate fear or discomfort (R13).

Ears Forward
Alertness, curiosity, arousal, potential concern, intense focus, predatory – Note: Very stiff/tense ears along with a rigid body indicates high arousal, threat or predatory/aggressive intent. (R13).

EYES 

Whale Eye (White Showing)
Excitement, anxiety, resource guarding, discomfort with proximity, tracking movement, looking sideways while keeping the head still (R2) (R4)

Dilated Pupils
Fear, stress, arousal

Breaking Eye Contact
Fear, calming signal, avoiding conflict, distracted, de-escalation strategy (R7)

Hard Stare
Threat, guarding, intent to control space, escalation warning, predatory fixation (R26)

Soft Eyes, Squinty, Almond Shaped
Relaxation, comfort, friendly intent, low arousal (R26)

Rapid Blinking
Uncertainty, calming signal, appeasement, eye irritation, fatigue (R26)

Hyper-Vigilant Scanning
Anxiety, environmental sensitivity, anticipation, pain-driven vigilance, neurological sensitivity (R14)

MOUTH / FACE 

Yawning
Relaxation, anticipation, calming signal, displacement behaviour, stress, oxygen regulation, fatigue (R5)

Lip Licking
Grooming, social appeasement, displacement behaviour, stress, nausea, oral discomfort (R5)

Relaxed Open Mouth & Tongue
Relaxed, comfortable (R6)

Closed Mouth (Sudden Stillness)
Tension, focus, assessment of a situation (R14)

Tight Facial Muscles
Stress, discomfort, emotional restraint (R13)

Smiling (Submissive Grin)
Appeasement, social deference, friendly intent – Note: sometimes misread as happy when the dog is tense (R18).

Mouthing (Hard)
Over-arousal, frustration, reduced impulse control, overstimulation (R17)

Mouthing (Gentle)
Play, exploration, social interaction, over-arousal, self-regulation during excitement, frustration (R17)

Panting (Not Heat-Related)
Excitement, contentment, joy, overstimulation, stress, anxiety, discomfort, pain, nausea, fever, breed-related baseline, hormonal influences, metabolic conditions, cognitive stress or confusion (older dogs), conditioned, medication side effects, cardiac/respiratory issues (R29)

Teeth Chattering
Arousal, excitement, anticipation, scent processing, response to cold, dental/jaw issues (R29)

Nooking (Sucking On Soft Objects)
Self-soothing, emotional regulation, common with dogs weaned too early (R33)

Air Snapping
Play, over-arousal, frustration, displacement behaviour, excitement, stress, neurological irritation, compulsion

NOSE 

Sniffing The Ground
Distraction, curiosity, calming signal, displacement behaviour (R7)

Sneezing
Nasal irritation, excitement, a social signal that interaction is friendly and non-threatening, play interruption signal (R11)

Reverse Sneezing
Excitement, sudden temperature drop, rapid emotional arousal, nasal irritation, post nasal drip, allergies, anatomical sensitivity, assorted medical causes (R11)

Snorting (In Or Out)
Nasal or airway irritation or sensitivity, excitement, contentment, frustration (R12)

Nose Bump
Investigatory, attention-getting, excitement, frustration, resource guarding, boundary testing, warning of escalation to aggression  (R34)

Thumping (Quick Exhales)
Arousal, heightened interest, investigative focus, anticipation, alertness, mild frustration, displacement behaviour (R33)

PAWS 

Paws Curl Under Then Release
Comfort-seeking, relaxation, mild arousal shifts, anticipation of movement, breed tendency, habit, fatigue, possible physical discomfort, stiffness if frequent or asymmetrical (R23)
 
BODY / MOVEMENT 

Turning Away
Looking at something, distraction, avoidance, a polite way of reducing social pressure (R7)

Walking Away
Distraction, disengagement, regulating interaction (R7)

Shaking Off
Arousal reset following excitement, stress, or tension, emotional release, transition between states, often seen after play, social interaction, or mild stress (R6)

Play Bow
Stretching, invitation to play, pre-emptive conflict diffuser, sign of comfort (R6)

Full-Body Wiggle
Over-excitement, social enthusiasm, positive anticipation (R6)

Partial Rolling
Comfort, trust, play, submission (R6)

Paw Lifting
Focus, curiosity, anticipation, uncertainty (R5)

Blocking Or Standing In The Way
Control of space, social regulation, interruption of movement, uncertainty, anticipation (R17)

Leaning On Someone
Bonding, attention behaviour, social connection, anxiety (R6)

Leaning Away From A Person, Dog Or Stimulus
Discomfort, avoidance, uncertainty, fear, increasing distance from a person, dog, or stimulus without fully retreating, a subtle disengagement signal that can precede more obvious avoidance (R27)

Weight Shifting
Uncertainty, hesitation, fear, avoidance (R28)

Leaning Forward
Interest, confidence, potential pressure or challenge (R28)

Curved Body Posture
Social softness, calming signal, polite interaction (R28)

Low Crouch
Fear, anxiety, uncertainty, appeasement, dog is attempting to appear smaller or less threatening, often ready to retreat if required, can also be seen in cautious approach or when anticipating something unpleasant (R27)

Stiff Posture
Tension, alertness, possible escalation (R28)

Freezing
Uncertainty, fear, early warning to escalation when a dog feels threatened (R14)

Slow Movement  “Creeping”
Play, uncertainty, caution, fear, tracking scent, environmental investigation, predatory (R14)

Hackles Raised (Piloerection)
Involuntary arousal response, excitement, fear, uncertainty,  heightened emotional intensity (R15)

Averting Head While Approaching
Polite social behaviour, reducing perceived threat (R16)

Sitting Or Lying Down Mid-Interaction
Calming signal, disengagement, conflict avoidance (R16)

Excessive Scratching
(Without Itch)
Displacement behaviour, stress, internal conflict (R16)

Following Closely (Shadowing)
Attachment, curiosity, anticipation, learned reinforcement, anxiety (R17)

TAIL 

Tucked
Fear, anxiety, submission, insecurity, anticipation of threat, attempt to appear smaller, pain, illness (R27)

High, Stiff, Fast Wag
High arousal, alertness, assertive interest, potential tension or challenge (R27)

Slow, Low Wag
Uncertainty, cautious social engagement, appeasement, mild insecurity, assessing a situation or individual (R27)

Loose, Wide, Circular Wag
Friendly intent, social engagement, excitement – Note: when paired with loose body indicates relaxed/happy, when paired with tension indicates arousal or nervous excitement (R6)

Helicopter Wag (Full Circle)
Strong positive social intent, excitement, familiarity (R6)

Wagging More To The Right
Positive emotional state, approach-oriented, comfort or interest in the stimulus (R6)

Wagging More To The Left
Negative emotional state, withdrawal tendency, caution, anxiety or concern about the stimulus (R6)
 
VOCAL SIGNALS 

Barking
Play, excitement, attention getting, response to other dogs barking, alert barking, territorial, compulsive behaviour, boredom, loneliness, frustration, fear, medical or age-related    (R24)

Growling
 
Warning signal, discomfort, boundary setting, fear (R30)
 
Howling
Communication over distance, response to sound, social bonding (R30)

Whining
Excitement, distress, frustration, attention-getting, pain signalling (R5)

Sighing
Relaxation, postural relief, emotional release, sadness (R5)
 
CALMING SIGNALS 

Calming Signals – Subtle social behaviours used to reduce tension, avoid conflict or regulate interaction (in self or others). Turning head away, looking away, play bow, single paw lift, slow blinking, soften facial expression, turning body sideways, curved approach, slow movements, lowered body posture, sitting or lying down, sniffing the ground, splitting attention between stimulus and environment (R7)
 
DISPLACEMENT BEHAVIOURS 

Displacement Behaviours – Context-inappropriate behaviours caused by internal conflict, stress or arousal that are not directly related to the immediate situation. Shaking off (full body shake), suddenly sniffing the ground, freezing, panting when not hot, nose licking, chewing or mouthing objects, repetitive swallowing or gulping, sudden scratching, repeated yawning, excessive grooming, circling, pacing, suddenly sitting or lying down, sniffing the ground, sudden interest in irrelevant stimuli, freezing followed by abrupt and unrelated action, sudden scratching or biting (R7)

Micro-Communications

Slow Blink
Comfort, trust, relaxation, fatigue (R6)

Slight Weight Shifts
Polite social signalling (R7)

Brief Pauses During Play
Communication resets (R6)

Tiny Tongue Flicks
Calming signal (R7)

Ear Flicks
Attention shifts (R5)

Sudden Mouth Closing
Momentary focus (R5)

Micro-Pauses
Interaction regulation (R6)

Side-By-Side Positioning
Social ease, co-regulation (R7)

Head Tilts
Engagement, listening, sound localization (R6)

Gentle Nose Touches
Bonding (R7)

​Dogs are highly skilled at learning what elicits a response from their humans. Over time, they develop individual behaviours specifically aimed at gaining attention. These can include exaggerated sighs, grunts, snorts, sneezes or other vocalizations, as well as nudging, pawing, sudden bursts of movement or simply sitting in front of a person and tilting their head. Some dogs will also block pathways, position themselves between a person and an object (such as a phone, desk or doorway), or bring specific items to their guardian as an invitation for interaction or play.

Other attention-getting behaviours include light mouthing without pressure, restless pacing that increases in proximity to the person, or performing previously reinforced “trick” behaviours in rapid succession (known as behaviour chaining). In some cases, dogs use patterned vocalizations, such as short attention-barking sequences or time their behaviours to coincide with moments when their guardian is distracted or busy. These behaviours are shaped through reinforcement history and social responsiveness, reflecting a dog’s ability to adapt its behaviour to elicit predictable human responses (R21) (R22).

Some dogs develop unique and individualized ways of seeking interaction. These behaviours are not necessarily a bad thing, but instead reflect intelligence, learning ability and social awareness. Dogs quickly learn that humans tend to be responsive, and will use whatever works to get what they want. (R10). The key is distinguishing between communication, learned attention behaviours, and stress or pain-related behaviours in order to respond appropriately. Identifying attention behaviour is also important in training, when applying the resource control rule of ignoring all demands.

​Canine communication is complex, fluid and deeply contextual. By learning to read clusters of signals and recognizing individual quirks, we can increase our understanding of our dogs and their communications. Dogs don’t just communicate, they adapt their communication in their own unique way to their people, environment and circumstances. Teaching our dogs to understand our language is important however, learning to understand our dogs is vital to every aspect of their survival. When we learn to listen and understand what they are saying, we don’t just improve their behaviour, we build a stronger and healthier relationship.

​(R1) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive resource on canine behaviour, neurological conditions, and sleep disturbances.
(R2) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2013). Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat. Saunders. Discusses normal canine sleep patterns and behavioural causes of sleep disruption.
(R3) Siegel, J. M. (2005). Clues to the functions of mammalian sleep. Nature, 437(7063), 1264–1271. Research explaining REM sleep and dream-related muscle activity.
(R4) Mignot, E., Tafti, M., Dement, W., & Grumet, F. (1995). Narcolepsy and immunity. Sleep, 18(9), 757–765. Describes genetic and neurological factors involved in narcolepsy in dogs and humans.
(R5) Mahowald, M. W., & Schenck, C. H. (2005). Insights from studying human sleep disorders applied to animal sleep behaviour. Sleep Medicine Reviews, 9(4), 251–267. Explains REM behaviour disorders and sleep movement disorders.
(R6) Hendricks, J. C. (1992). Brachycephalic airway syndrome and sleep-disordered breathing in dogs. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 201(4), 609–612. Discusses sleep apnea and respiratory obstruction in short-nosed breeds.
(R7) Schenck, C. H., Mahowald, M. W. (2002). Insights into canine sleepwalking and parasomnias. Elsevier. Overview of non-REM sleepwalking in dogs and its presentation.
(R8) Howell, T. J., Bennett, P. C. (2011). Sleep behaviour and REM disorder in domestic dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 6(5), 279–285. Discusses REM sleep behaviour disorder and its manifestations.
(R9) Miller, L., & Hoffman, J. (2015). Distinguishing canine sleep disorders: sleepwalking vs. REM behaviour. Veterinary Clinics: Small Animal Practice, 45(4), 777–790. Compares sleepwalking and REM sleep disorders in dogs.
(R10) Medleau, L., & Hnilica, K. (2010). Small Animal Neurology. Elsevier. Overview of neurological sleep disorders in dogs.
(R11) Miller, M. W., & Dewey, C. W. (2001). Narcolepsy and cataplexy in dogs. Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 15(2), 140–145. Clinical features and triggers of narcolepsy in dogs.
(R12) Dodman, N. H., & Shuster, L. (2000). Behavioural management of narcolepsy in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 30(2), 421–430. Strategies to reduce triggers and improve safety.
(R13) Rishniw, M., & Packer, R. M. (2013). Pharmacological management of narcolepsy in dogs. Journal of Small Animal Practice, 54(12), 636–642. Review of medications used to control narcolepsy episodes.
(R14) Platt, S. R., & Olby, N. J. (2013). BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Neurology (4th ed.). British Small Animal Veterinary Association. Guidance on diagnosis, management, and treatment options for canine narcolepsy.
(R15) Schenck, C. H., Bundlie, S. R., Ettinger, M. G., & Mahowald, M. W. (1986). Chronic behavioural disorders of human REM sleep: a new category of parasomnia. Sleep, 9(2), 293–308. Study describing REM sleep behaviour disorders and treatment approaches.
(R16) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Overview of medications used to treat RBD in dogs.
(R17) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Discussion of non-pharmacological approaches to reduce RBD episodes in dogs.
(R18) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Review of canine sleep disorders including sleepwalking.
(R19) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Recommendations for managing sleepwalking through environmental and routine adjustments.
(R20) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Overview of when medication might be considered for canine sleepwalking.
(R21) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Overview of canine insomnia symptoms and prevalence.
(R22) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Discussion of non-pharmacological interventions for insomnia in dogs.
(R23) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Review of pharmacological treatments for canine insomnia.
(R24) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Overview of sleep apnea signs and diagnosis in dogs.
(R25) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Discussion of treatments targeting underlying causes of sleep apnea.
(R26) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Non-surgical strategies to improve breathing and sleep quality in dogs with apnea.
(R27) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Description of periodic limb movements and restless sleep in canines.
(R28) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Strategies for improving sleep quality and reducing limb movements in dogs.
(R29) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Overview of pharmacological options for treating periodic limb movements in dogs.
(R30) Dauvilliers, Y., Arnulf, I., & Mignot, E. (2007). Sleep disorders in dogs: clinical characteristics and management. Veterinary Journal, 173(3), 438–446. Overview of age-related sleep changes in dogs.
(R31) Olson, E., & Smith, P. (2010). Management of sleep disorders in dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 40(3), 565–576. Discussion of health factors contributing to sleep changes in older dogs.
(R32) Miller, T., & Hart, B. (2015). Environmental and behavioural strategies for canine sleep disorders. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), 321–327. Recommendations for supporting restful sleep in senior dogs.
(R33) Landsberg, G., et al. (2012). Cognitive dysfunction syndrome: A disease of canine and feline brain aging. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 42(4), 749–768.
(R34) Schork, I. G., et al. (2022). How environmental conditions affect sleep? An investigation in domestic dogs (Canis lupus familiaris). Animals, 12(11), 1400. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani12111400
(R35) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2013). Behaviour problems of the dog and cat (3rd ed.). Saunders Elsevier. Overview of how lifestyle factors such as insufficient exercise, lack of mental stimulation, stress, anxiety, and inconsistent routines contribute to behavioural issues and disrupted sleep patterns in dogs.
(R36) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2013). Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat. Saunders. Discusses circadian rhythm disruptions and their association with cognitive dysfunction and environmental factors.
(R37) Horwitz, D., & Mills, D. (2009). BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioural Medicine. British Small Animal Veterinary Association. Covers behavioural and environmental strategies for managing sleep–wake cycle disorders.
(R38) Overall, K. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Reviews treatment approaches including routine regulation and pharmacological support for sleep disturbances.
(R39) Foyer, P., Wilsson, E., & Jensen, P. (2014) Dog behaviour and trauma: Effects on sleep patterns. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 153, 53–60.
(R40) Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2012) Behaviour problems of the dog and cat. Saunders Elsevier. Discussion of nightmares and sleep disturbance in dogs.
(R41) McCobb, E., Patronek, G., & Marder, A. (2005) Pain, illness, and sleep disruption in companion animals. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association, 41(6), 293–300.
​
Photo By Freepik.com

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Puppies and toddlers have a lot in common developmentally, in that they’re both exploring the world for the first time with high energy, short attention spans and big emotions that they don’t yet understand or know how to handle.

For puppies, the early months are all about learning and playing. Because teething occurs from approximately 3 to 7 months of age, mouthing and chewing objects, furniture, clothing and people is quite normal as they relieve their discomfort and test boundaries.

Their critical socialization period ends at approximately 14 weeks of age, during which time pleasant and unpleasant experiences shape their personalities and how they view the world, including children, for the rest of their lives.

When a puppy experiences too much excitement at once it becomes over-stimulated. Signs of overstimulation include zoomies, excessive panting even when it’s not hot, pacing or restlessness, constant jumping, high-pitched barking or whining, dilated pupils, mouthing harder than usual and even a tucked tail with frantic energy. Overstimulation is caused by chaotic movements, loud noises and prolonged high-arousal activities, which is normal behaviour for a running and squealing toddler (R1) (R2). Also keep in mind that dogs that don’t receive enough attention, exercise and mental stimulation are much more likely to become overstimulated.

Toddlers are hard wired for curiosity and big emotions but they have very little control over their impulses. It would be normal for a young child to grab a dog’s tail or ears because they’re fascinating, grab and hug the dog out of affection or chase it because it’s fun, without realizing these behaviours are threatening to the pup.

Young children will miss a dog’s subtle stress signals, including yawning, lip licking, freezing, turning away or whale eye, as it tries to communicate that its overwhelmed and needs space. These children aren’t intentionally misbehaving, they’re just little humans who have yet to learn empathy and boundaries. Understanding that both the puppy and children are going through normal stages of development helps you respond by teaching instead of punishing and leading with calm guidance instead of reacting through frustration (R3).

​The secret to success is planning ahead and maintaining consistent routines, including schedules for both the puppy and children. Although every puppy is different, some young puppies need 18 to 20 hours of sleep daily. They also need attention, meals, outside elimination breaks, walks, play, chew time and mental stimulation. Likewise, a toddler needs consistency with healthy snacks and meals, naps, quiet time to play by themselves and time with friends, siblings and parents. When two responsible adults are available, chaos can be reduced when one parent guides the children while the other guides the puppy, then switch (R4).

​Set your puppy up for success with environmental management by puppy proofing your home the way you would for a toddler. This means closing doors and putting cables, trash, toxic plants, choking hazards and other potentially dangerous objects out of reach. Give your puppy a safe space of its own such as an exercise pen or blocked off area with a comfortable bed, toys and chews, where it can relax, entertain itself and sleep undisturbed.

Baby gates or tall pet gates can be helpful to separate the dog and child during peak energy times. You can prevent your puppy and children from getting their heads stuck between the bars by making sure the space between them is too narrow. When your children need to run to release energy, let them burn it off on one side of the barrier while the dog chills on the other side with a long-lasting chew, stuffed Kong or other enrichment option. This prevents the excitement loop where the children over stimulate the puppy causing it to jump or nip. It also teaches the puppy to entertain itself in its own space, and teaches independence to help prevent separation anxiety (R5).

Never leave a dog and young children unsupervised together, not even for quick bathroom breaks. Young children can accidentally hurt a dog by stepping or falling on it, or by pulling its tail or ears. Not only can this force a dog to defend itself, it can also jump on, nip and knock over tiny humans. Secured barriers give you control and peace of mind without the need for constant supervision.
​
Establish house rules from the beginning including never bothering the puppy while it’s eating, sleeping or chewing, and teach the children that the dog’s space is off-limits unless invited in by a parent. Consistency from all adults is important for the rules to be respected and to keep everyone safe (R6).

​Positive training is always the best approach because punishment can inhibit a dog’s ability to think, learn, remember, problem-solve and make choices, which is counter-productive to the learning process. Reprimands can cause stress, anxiety and fear, which dogs can begin to associate not only with the adult correcting them but also with any children who are present at the time. This is a problem not only because living in fear is an unpleasant existence but also because almost all dog aggression is self-defence caused by fear.

Your focus should be on managing the environment and reinforcing the behaviours you want. Reward correct choices with treats, praise, play, affection or anything the dog values. When good behaviour consistently leads to positive outcomes, dogs learn quickly and are far more likely to repeat those behaviours.

Basic cues such as sit, down, stay, come, leave it, drop it, go to your bed and settle – provide the structure required to set the dog up for success. Practising these skills in the morning, before the dog interacts with the children can help release excess energy, which improves focus, self-control, resilience and tolerance for excitement. Consistency from all family members is essential to ensure that the dog receives predictable and easy to understand guidance.

Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation through canine enrichment are non-negotiable. Walks, fetch, tug, puzzles, scent games and training help burn both physical and emotional energy, while reducing the likelihood of boredom, frustration or overstimulation. Safe and healthy chews are also indispensable to keep puppies occupied, for energy release and to redirect teething behaviours toward suitable targets and away from people (R7). For more information about enrichment options see my article Canine Enrichment For Dogs.

Create a safe space where your dog can enjoy alone time. Using this area for breaks ensures safety, encourages independence, helps prevent separation anxiety and shows the dog that being alone can actually be enjoyable. You can also teach your dog to settle by rewarding calm behavior on a mat or dog bed placed near, but not inside the children’s plays area. Over time, your dog will start to trust your children and associate them with positive experiences, rather than being hurt, scared or overwhelmed (R8).

Never underestimate the importance of proactive supervision. Dogs and young children should never be left alone together even if the dog is well trained. Adults should always be watching for early signs of stress indicating that the dog needs space, and step in before the situation escalates. Giving the dog a safe place to retreat to where children are not allowed to follow helps the dog feel safe and secure and prevents conflict.

Socialize the dog and children together with short, positive interactions and reward both for calm behavior. This includes the dog not jumping on or mouthing the children and the children following your instructions.
​
Combining positive training, environmental management, proper exercise and mental stimulation with careful supervision helps families build safe, respectful relationships between dogs and children. It also supports everyone’s emotional wellbeing and lays the groundwork for long-term, reliable behaviour. For more information about positive training see my article entitled Positive Dog Training – Science | Ethics | Results.

(R47)

• Excessive panting (not due to heat or exercise)
• Lip licking
• Yawning (out of context)
• Whining, whimpering
• Excessive barking
• Avoiding eye contact or turning away
• Walking away
• Refusing treats, food or play
• Pacing or restlessness​ (R47)

​

​(R47)

• Trembling or shaking
• Tail tucked between the legs
• Ears flattened or pinned back
• Cowering or lowering the body
• Hiding or trying to escape/retreat
• Freezing in place
• Submissive urination
• Drooling

​It’s important to involve young children in age-appropriate activities to help build responsibility, empathy and pride in caring for their dog. Start teaching gentle touch by showing the children how to use one finger or an open palm to softly stroke the dog’s back, sides or under the chin – never the face, paws, tail or ears. Teach children to avoid hugging or squeezing and teach young children not to pick up or carry the dog because toddlers lack the motor control required to do so safely. Chasing, teasing and poking must also be prevented and children should never disturb a puppy while it’s eating, sleeping, resting or chewing, as these are common situations where bites occur (R3).

It’s very important to teach children the basics of canine communication and body language, so they can understand when a dog wants to be left alone. A loose body, open mouth and wagging tail usually indicate a relaxed and happy dog, while a stiff body, closed mouth or fast, high wag can signal rising arousal or tension. Other cues such as yawning, turning away, lip licking or freezing will tell them the dog needs space. Always praise the children when they notice and respect these signals (R9).

Demonstrate appropriate behaviour for the children by moving slowly, speaking softly and reading the dog’s body language before touching it. Also discuss and demonstrate not approaching the dog but instead, waiting for the dog to approach you. This allows the dog autonomy in that it can choose whether or not it wants attention at that time. Keep early interactions very short, only a few seconds to a couple minutes at a time to prevent over-stimulating both the children and the dog. Calm and successful interactions are much more important than longer ones and always end on a success and positive note. For more information about autonomy, see my article Autonomy & A Well Behaved Dog.

​Register for puppy classes run by an educated, qualified and experienced, 100% positive dog trainer who welcomes children and encourages the entire family to work as a team. Not only does this increase consistency, it also teaches the children how to properly train and handle a dog. This is when they learn to respect animals and develop skills that will shape how they handle dogs for the rest of their lives, so make it count. This is also a good time to teach them to never approach dogs they don’t know and never without their parent’s permission.

Including children in dog training is crucial, as it helps nurture a trusting, respectful relationship between them and the dog. It also teaches valuable life skills such as responsibility, empathy and compassion through hands-on involvement, while reducing the risk of accidents by showing the children how to interact safely and play appropriately (R18). This participation can boost their confidence and self-esteem as they see the dog respond positively to their guidance, and it helps ensure consistency in the household for a well-adjusted and happy dog (R19).

The best way to teach responsibility is to start with supervised, age-appropriate tasks such as helping with feeding, grooming, walking or basic training. From there, you can move onto fun activities like hand-feeding meals, playing games such as fetch or hide-and-seek and practicing easy cues such as “sit” or “down” using positive training methods and rewards (R20). As they get the hang of it, teach them to watch the dog’s body language for any signs of stress caused by training. When they identify these communications, they can ask for a simple cue such as “sit” and reward the puppy, followed by a break to allow it to relax and clear its mind (R21). This way, the children learn to be aware and compassionate, while always ending with a success.

​A child’s excitement is the number-one trigger for a dog becoming over-stimulated. When children start running and squealing, a puppy will match the energy with jumping, barking, mouthing and hyperactivity. For situations such as these your best solution is prevention and re-direction not reaction.

When a child’s energy spikes and it’s necessary to separate them, be proactive by giving the puppy something else to do behind a barrier. You can then let the child burn off steam while the puppy safely enjoys a chew, game or toy. The same goes for when the puppy’s energy spikes. Watch for early signs such as pacing, heavy panting or frantic play and intervene with separation or redirection before it escalates. This breaks the energy cycle and allows both time to control themselves and decompress. (R1) (R2).

​The Doggone Safe bite prevention program created by Joan Orr and Teresa Lewin is a game-changer. Their Be A Tree technique for responding to jumping up or mouthing teaches the following. If the dog jumps or mouths, BE A TREE: stop moving, fold your branches (arms at your sides or crossed low in front of you), be very quiet, avoid eye contact and slowly and quietly turn away from the dog. It’s important to not touch or push the dog, make any noise, walk or run because that increases the puppy’s excitement. Be quiet, still and slowly turn away.

This removes the fun for the pup and with repetition it learns that jumping and biting doesn’t work to get attention. If the dog continues to jump or mouth, calmly and quietly move the dog behind the barrier. When it’s calm and quiet it can come out again. Parents should demonstrate and practice being a tree with the children and praise them for doing it correctly. This empowers the children, reduces fear and has been proven effective as a bite prevention tool (R11) (R12).

 (R46)​
Games such as chasing, rough housing, tug-o-war and retrieval can be used to teach a dog self control and to a void putting it’s mouth on people, as long as the games are played with rules. Games with rules teaches the dog self control and to make correct choices in order to keep playing.

Rule # One

Use only one cue to start the game, such as ‘let’s play’ and one to end it, such as ‘finished.’ It doesn’t matter which words you use as long as they are used consistently and always means the same thing. You should always be in control by deciding when the game starts and ends with no exceptions, and the game must always end the moment you say so. If the dog doesn’t stop playing on cue simply leave the room and close the door.
Resource control is the foundation of our training. Rule number one of resource control is to ignore demands, so it’s important to never begin the game when the dog demands it. For more information about resource control see our article entitled Dominance – The Dirty Word Of Dog Training.

Rule # Two

Keep your games short to avoid over-stimulating the dog. The longer you play, the higher the dog’s energy rises making it more difficult to control. Thirty seconds at a time is plenty to start, followed by a ‘settle down’ or self-control training exercise. When the dog is calm, the game can resume. As the dog learns to control itself while playing, you can gradually increase the length of your play sessions.

Rule # Three

When playing tug-o-war, use one toy only so the dog does not attempt to play tug at inappropriate times or with inappropriate objects. Keep your tug toy out of reach until you bring it out and invite the dog to play. When the game is finished, put the toy away.

Rule # Four

This is the most important rule and must be followed consistently. If so much as one tooth touches you or your child’s skin or clothing, whether it’s gentle or hard, accidental or on purpose, give your cue to end the game and it must end immediately. When the dog is biting clothing, you can’t tell how hard it’s biting and if it accidentally grabs skin as well, it can hurt.

Begin by playing outside a bedroom or bathroom door or inside your pup’s safe area. Sit on the floor and give your ‘let’s play’ cue to entice the dog to start

playing. The second you feel a tooth, the dog touches clothing with its mouth or ignores a cue, quietly stand up, slip through the door and close it behind you or leave the pup’s safe area. When the dog is calm and quiet, resume playing.

This rule will teach the dog to avoid using its teeth to keep you playing the game and a dog that’s proactively avoiding human contact with its mouth is a lot less likely to ever bite someone. Teaching a ‘leave it’ cue is also valuable for the dog to learn bite inhibition and self control.

​Young children need motivation as much as dogs do and they love visuals and rewards. To encourage them to proactively participate in doing what’s in the dog’s best interest you can create a fun reward system just for them. Set up a chart on the fridge, maybe a dog-themed piece of paper that you will adorn with stickers or checkmarks. Every time the child does something helpful, such as gentle petting, giving space when the puppy asks for it, identifying a communication or assisting with training – go to the chart together, add a check mark or sticker and explain exactly why. ‘You gave the puppy space when he was chewing, that was great!’. After a predetermined number of check marks or stickers, the child earns a small reward such as extra play or story time, a favourite snack, a new colouring book and crayons, a trip to the park or something else they value.

This focus on positive behaviour builds confidence and associates correct choices with pleasant outcomes. It strengthens the bond between the child and dog and instead of perceiving it as a chore, the child views helping as a fun and rewarding game. Reward systems make compassion and good behaviour motivating for little ones, while promoting learning and a thoughtful and respectful child (R10).

Any time you’re unsure about how to handle an issue with the dog or between the dog and children, reach out to an educated, qualified and positive dog training and behavior expert for guidance, as punishing the child or dog will do more harm than good and does not teach either of them what you want them to do. It can also be helpful to keep a training journal to track your progress with both the children and dog (R13).

(R1) Honest Paws – Overstimulated Dogs: Signs, Causes and Supportive Strategies
(R2) Woodgreen Pets Charity / Various expert sources on dog overstimulation signs
(R3) Oh My Dog Blog – Dogs and Toddlers: A realistic guide
(R4) Animal Humane Society – Expert advice on raising young kids with canines
(R5) Animal Humane Society / Augusta Dog Training – Environmental management tips
(R6) ASPCA / Humane Society resources on supervision
(R7) The Spruce Pets / NASC – Positive reinforcement training for puppies around kids
(R8) Beyond the Dog / Various positive trainers on socialization
(R9) Animal Humane Society – Dog body language basics
(R10) Pooch Parenting – Reward Chart for Good Behavior – Kids and Dogs
(R11) Doggone Safe / Family Paws – BE A TREE! Don’t FLEE!
(R12) Humane Broward / Pet Professional Guild – Be a Tree program details
(R13) IAABC Journal / Various expert sources on common challenges and professional help
(R12) Family Paws Parent Education. (n.d.). Dogs & Storks Online Class. https://www.familypaws.com/courses/dogs-storks/
(R13) Nemours KidsHealth. (n.d.). Preventing Dog Bites. https://kidshealth.org/en/parents/dog-bites.html
(R14) Best Friends Animal Society. (n.d.). Prevent a Dog From Biting Children. https://bestfriends.org/pet-care-resources/how-prevent-dog-biting-children
(R15) Family Paws Parent Education. (n.d.). How We Support Families. https://www.familypaws.com/how-we-support-families
(R16) Preventive Vet. (2024). Prevent Dog Bites: Dog and Child Safety Tips. https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/prevent-dog-bites-with-children
(R17) Purina. (2025). Introducing Puppies and Children: The Essential Guide. https://www.purina.co.uk/articles/dogs/dog/behaviour/introducing-puppies-and-children
(R18) Animal Humane Society. ‘Expert advice on raising young kids with canines.’ https://www.animalhumanesociety.org/resource/expert-advice-raising-young-kids-canines
(R19) Facebook. ‘Including kids in dog training for a closer bond.’ https://www.facebook.com/groups/CampbellK9University/posts/3011858312372551
(R20) River Landings Animal Clinic. ‘4 Ways to Involve Kids in Dog Training.’ http://www.riverlandingsanimalclinic.com/news/2021/1/19/4-ways-to-involve-kids-in-dog-training
(R21) Beyond the Dog Training. ‘How to include children in raising a dog.’ https://beyondthedogtraining.com/dog-training/how-to-include-children-in-raising-a-dog
(R22) Babylist. ‘What to Know About Preparing Your Dog for Baby.’ https://www.babylist.com/hello-baby/how-to-prepare-dog-for-baby
(R23) Hilton Butler. ‘How to Prepare Your Dog for a New Baby.’ https://www.hiltonbutler.com/blog/prepare-dog-for-new-baby
(R24) Dog Meets Baby. ‘How To Prepare Your Dog For Baby Coming Home.’ https://www.dogmeetsbaby.expert/post/how-to-prepare-your-dog-for-baby-coming-home-2
(R25) Facebook. ‘Preparing Your Dog for a New Baby with 7 Essential Steps.’ https://www.facebook.com/groups/thelibary/posts/8557966134234989
(R26) ASPCA. ‘Dogs and Babies.’ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/dogs-and-babies R27 Animal Humane Society. ‘Preparing your pet for a new baby.’ https://www.animalhumanesociety.org/resource/preparing-your-pet-new-baby
(R28) Oregon Humane Society. ‘Preparing Your Pet for Baby’s Arrival.’ https://www.oregonhumane.org/portland-training/preparing-your-pet-for-babys-arrival
(R29) Toronto Humane Society. ‘Preparing Your Dog for a New Baby.’ https://www.torontohumanesociety.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Dog-and-Baby-Prep-Info-Sheet.pdf
(R30) Dog Gone Problems. ‘Free Tips for Newborns and Dogs: Preparing Dogs for a New Baby.’ https://www.doggoneproblems.com/jerry-morty-prep-for-new-baby
(R31) Twin Cities Birth Center. ‘Preparing Your Pooch for Baby’s Arrival.’ https://www.twincitiesbc.com/blog/preparing-your-pooch-for-babys-arrival
(R32) Whole Dog Journal. ‘Puppies and Kids: How to Set Up for Success.’ https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/puppies/puppies-kids-how-to-set-up-for-success
(R33) The Dog Academy. ‘Doghood Made Easy for New Owners: The Dos and Don’ts of Puppies & Kids!’ https://www.thedogacademy.com/blog/2021/7/12/doghood-made-easy-for-new-owners-the-dos-and-donts-of-puppies-amp-kids
(R34) Lupa K9. ‘How to Prepare Kids for a New Dog.’ (adapted from similar sources; cross-referenced with Humane Society guidelines)
(R35) Humane Society of Sonoma County. ‘Preparing Kids for a New Dog.’ https://humanesocietysoco.org/dog-training/preparing-kids-for-a-new-dog
(R36) The Everymom. ‘How to Prep Your Family for a Dog.’ https://theeverymom.com/how-to-prep-your-family-for-a-dog
(R37) Eastern Sierra Dog Rescue. ‘How to prepare children to welcome a new pet.’ https://www.easternsierradogrescue.com/blog/how-to-prepare-children-to-welcome-new-pet
(R38) Purina UK. ‘Easy Guide to Introducing Puppies and Children.’ https://www.purina.co.uk/articles/dogs/dog/behaviour/introducing-puppies-and-children
(R39) RSPCA Knowledgebase. ‘How do I introduce a new dog or dog to children?’ https://kb.rspca.org.au/knowledge-base/how-do-i-introduce-a-new-dog-or-dog-to-children (R40) Preventive Vet. ‘How to Introduce a Dog or Adult Dog to Your Children.’ https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-introduce-a-dog-or-adult-dog-to-your-children R41) Jinx. ‘How to Introduce a New Dog to Children.’ https://www.thinkjinx.com/blogs/news/how-to-introduce-a-new-dog-to-children
(R41) Dog Power Basic Training Manual. Available at: https://www.scribd.com/document/809687110/dog-power-basic-training-manual (This document contains near-verbatim sections on game rules, including the four rules described, structured play for self-control, and the tooth-contact shutdown for teaching bite inhibition and respect for human flesh.)
(R42) Ibid. (Direct quote: ‘Games without rules increase your dog’s control over you.’)
(R43) Canine Correspondence Studies with Norma Jeanne, ‘Dominance – The Dirty Word of Dog Training.’ Available at: https://dogtrainingcareers.com/dominance-the-dirty-word-of-dog-training (Explains benevolent leadership Rule #1 as ‘Ignore all Demands,’ with cross-references to controlling play initiation.)
(R44) Ibid., Dog Power Basic Training Manual (Emphasizes this as the ‘MOST IMPORTANT RULE’ with the exact phrasing about one tooth touching clothing or flesh ending the game immediately.)
(R45) https://www.familypaws.com/courses/dog-toddlers/
(R46) https://www.dogstardaily.com/blog/4-rules-for-games-with-your-dog/
(R47) American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). (n.d.). Puppy Socialization Position Statement. AVSAB. (Emphasizes recognizing and preventing fear through proper socialization; notes risks of overwhelming puppies leading to fear responses.)
​
Photo By Freepi

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​Science has proven that a lot of aggression in dogs is rooted in fear. This understanding has helped the dog training profession progress toward positive training methods and away from outdated theories about dominance and punishment. The majority of dogs are reactive or aggressive because they feel threatened or unsafe however, trainers who work extensively with these dogs quickly realize that not all aggressive behaviour presents as fear. What we are seeing is that a significant number of dogs that bark, lunge, guard, chase or confront are not trying to escape or protect themselves, instead they are trying to achieve something. These non-fearful behaviours are driven by frustration, high arousal, resource control, predation, genetics and/or a history of reinforcement, not self-defence (R2) (R8).

​There are two motivations for aggressive or reactive behaviour: The first is “I want it” and the second is “I want it to go away.” Fear-based aggression involves the “I want it to go away” motivation, as the dog’s goal is to create distance from the trigger in order to feel safe. The dog is trying to escape from and avoid the situation and push the threat away.

Non-fearful aggressive behaviour appears quite different. In these cases, the dog is experiencing the “I want it” motivation and is trying to reach the trigger, interact, chase or control the situation. We often see this in dogs that react strongly on leash yet behave in a friendly manner off leash. When this happens, the leash becomes a barrier that increases frustration rather than indicating a real threat (R10). The truth is that many leash-reactive dogs are friendly off leash or once interaction is possible, indicating the behaviour was driven by frustration rather than fear (R10).

However, frustration-based reactivity driven by the “I want it” motivation doesn’t always mean the dog will be friendly once it gains access. For some dogs, the intense drive to reach the other dog or person can spill over into rough or aggressive behaviour once the barrier is removed. Highly aroused dogs often struggle with self-control during these interactions, which can lead to intense greetings, pushy behaviour, bullying or even snapping and biting. This is especially common in dogs with poor social skills or a history of being reinforced for their behaviour, where their intensity has previously helped them get what they want. In these cases, the original “I want it” motivation can escalate into frustration-induced aggression when the dog’s arousal exceeds its coping ability, proving that “I want it” reactivity does not always result in safe or appropriate social interactions (R43) (R44).

​Boundary Frustration

Boundary frustration aggression occurs when a dog is prevented from accessing something it’s motivated to reach, such as another dog, person, object or location. The barrier may be physical such as a leash, fence, crate or doorway, or situational such as restraint by a handler. The dog’s behaviour escalates not from a need to retain control, but from an inability to cope with the frustration of being denied access. This can result in lunging, barking or vocalizing and often increases in intensity the longer access is denied. Unlike fear-based aggression, this motivation is goal-directed and the escalation is associated with an increase of frustration, a lack of tolerance control and a history of reinforcement for persistent attempts to gain access (R47) (R48).

Resource Control

Resource control aggression occurs when a dog’s intent is to maintain possession of, or control over valued items, spaces, or interactions and attention from others. These resources can include food, toys, resting places, doorways, preferred people and other animals. In many cases, the dog appears calm until someone attempts to approach or remove the resource, move the dog or otherwise interfere. Rather than withdrawing, the dog maintains its position and escalates its behaviour. For some dogs this occurs very quickly, while for others, it can gradually escalate in intensity and can include stiffening, staring, growling, and biting. This pattern is typically shaped by reinforcement history, where maintaining control over the resource has been successful. Although driven by a fear of losing the valued resource, this is not a defensive behaviour or the behaviour of a frightened dog, instead, it reflects confident, learned behaviour in which the dog has figured out that aggressive behaviour works to get what it wants (R45) (R46).

Predation (Not Movement Or Food Triggered)

Predatory aggression refers to situations where elements of the innate predatory drive are triggered by movement such as a running dog, child, cyclist, vehicle, etc., but are not followed by consumption. In these cases, the behaviour is still driven by the natural hunting instinct, but is different because although the dog may chase, grab or bite, the ultimate goal is not to catch and eat its prey. This behaviour is fast and quiet, with no body language warning signals, setting it apart from fear and frustration-based aggression. Although it can cause injury, this behaviour isn’t driven by fear, anger or resource guarding instead, it comes from instinctive, hardwired responses to movement (R53) (R54).

Predation (Survival-Based – Not Aggression)

When expressed in the context of hunting for the purpose of catching, killing and eating prey, predation is not considered aggression in the traditional sense. Instead, it’s a normal survival instinct controlled by the predatory pattern of orient, stalk, chase, grab, kill and consume. This behaviour is self-rewarding and helps the dog fulfil its instinctive need to eat. The sequence is typically silent, efficient and not preceded by threat displays or emotional escalation. Because its goal is nourishment rather than conflict, it’s more accurately classified as a feeding behaviour pattern rather than aggression (R51) (R52).

High Arousal

High arousal is another major factor that can produce behaviours that look aggressive. In this situation a dog’s emotional arousal can become so high that it can no longer think clearly or control its behaviour. At this point, the dog is essentially over threshold and its thinking brain is no longer in charge. Many dogs live in environments with constant stimulation, frequent excitement, repeated exposure to triggers, high activity levels and limited opportunities to rest. Over time, their baseline arousal stays elevated. When a trigger appears, the dog may already be close to its threshold, resulting in reactions that seem sudden or extreme (R4) (R15). For dogs that live in a constant state of high arousal, healing the vagus nerve is an important part of rehabilitation because calming the dog’s nervous system is essential for nurturing self-control. For more information see my article Healing The Vagus Nerve For A Calmer Dog.

Reinforcement History

Reinforcement history also plays a significant role in aggressive behaviour. When a behaviour repeatedly gets the dog what it wants, it becomes more deeply rooted and more efficient, increasing the likelihood that it will happen again and increase in intensity. Dogs learn quickly which actions influence their environment and no matter which motivation it is, if barking and lunging makes people step back, the dog will use it when necessary. If guarding keeps a resource safe, the behaviour becomes more consistent and if lunging and barking makes the frightening stimulus go away, it will become a fearful dog’s default behaviour. From the dog’s perspective, escalation works, and dogs will do whatever works to get what they want (R9) (R12). One of the most beneficial approaches trainers and guardians can use when dealing with aggression is asking one simple question: What is the dog trying to achieve? Behaviour is about outcomes and dogs repeat behaviours that work (R1) (R9).

Aggression That Appears Confident But Is Really Fear-Based

Sometimes aggression can look confident and deliberate, but the motivation behind it is self-defence. In other words, the dog has learned a “get them before they get me” strategy. Through experience, the dog learns that if it acts aggressively toward a person or another dog with enough intensity, they will back off. When this happens, the aggressive behaviour successfully creates distance from the perceived threat. Because it reliably removes something the dog finds uncomfortable, the behaviour is reinforced through negative reinforcement, which means removing an unpleasant stimulus to strengthen a behaviour (R40) (R42). Over time, as the dog becomes confident that this strategy works, its body language can start to look offensive rather than defensive.

The ability to smell emotional changes can also influence a dog’s choices and behaviour (R21) (R23). Dogs can detect chemical changes associated with stress and fear, including hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline (R20) (R22). When another dog or person becomes fearful, it can not only understand the associated body language, it can also smell the change in emotion through chemical changes in the blood. When it recognizes that a dog or person has become stressed or afraid, it can feel empowered in that it knows a fearful dog or person is less likely to defend itself or fight back. This can result in a fearful dog becoming more confident in it’s ability to get the other dog or person to back off and as a result, its behaviour begins to appear more confident than fearful.

​Observational Learning

Puppies are incredible observers and fast learners. In their first weeks of life, they watch their mother and littermates closely and copy what they see. If a mother calmly guards her food bowl or sets clear boundaries, the pups often adopt that same style. This type of observational learning happens naturally.

Maternal Influence

Puppies whose mothers are attentive and consistent during weaning tend to be less aggressive as adults, while inconsistent or overly harsh interactions can strengthen more assertive behavioural patterns (R18). Maternal influence helps shape social skills and self-control, even in confident, non-fearful puppies (R37) (R39).

Genetics

Science has proven that genetics influence not only a dog’s appearance but also its health and behaviour. Traits such as arousal levels, persistence, sensitivity to movement, territorial responses, fearfulness, impulsivity and social motivation can all be inherited, and these traits can affect a dog’s likelihood of displaying aggressive behaviours (R3) (R13). These traits are not inherently problematic and do not automatically lead to aggression, but they do shape how easily certain behaviours can develop. When puppies are bred from parents with these traits, genetics can play a significant role in the development of aggression. Research has found high heritability scores in certain breeds, indicating that inherited traits can strongly influence behaviour (R17). However, breed alone is not a reliable predictor, as substantial variations exist within breeds and breed lines (R24) (R25).

​Dog training has evolved significantly over the past few decades. Recognizing fear as a major driver of behaviour was an important step forward however, the next step is to improve our observational skills to ensure accurate diagnosis. Fear explains a lot of cases, but not all. When trainers and guardians take a step back and think about what the dog is trying to accomplish with its behaviour, it’s much easier to understand the problem and create a training plan that actually works. By doing so we can improve safety, while solving reactivity and aggression problems with precision. Changing any behaviour takes time, but with accurate assessment, the right approach, patience and consistency – success is achievable. For more information about our approach to aggression modification see our article entitled Canine Aggression – When Dogs Are Aggressive & Holistic Treatments.

Always remember to be kind to yourself as well because some days will be more challenging than others. Never hesitate to give the dog something to do on one side of the secured barrier with the children on the other in order to take breaks when you need them, and never be afraid to ask for help. Raising and training dogs and children together can be fun and rewarding and by planning ahead, you can fully embrace the journey.

​(R1) Skinner, B. F. (1953). Science and Human Behaviour. Macmillan. Foundational explanation of reinforcement and behaviour change.
(R2) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive resource on canine emotional states and aggression.
(R3) Coppinger, R., & Coppinger, L. (2001). Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behaviour and Evolution. University of Chicago Press. Explores genetic influences on behaviour and working dog traits.
(R4) McConnell, P. (2002). The Other End of the Leash. Ballantine Books. Discusses arousal, communication, and human influence on dog behaviour.
(R5) Herron, M., Shofer, F., & Reisner, I. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviours. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. Study comparing training methods and behavioural outcomes.
(R6) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behaviour Modification of Dogs and Cats. CattleDog Publishing. Practical guidance on reading behaviour and reducing escalation.
(R7) Mills, D., & Levine, E. (2014). The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People. Cambridge University Press. Overview of canine behaviour science.(R8) Donaldson, J. (1996). The Culture Clash. James & Kenneth Publishers. Discusses motivation, learning, and behaviour interpretation in dogs.
(R9) Pryor, K. (1999). Don’t Shoot the Dog. Bantam Books. Accessible explanation of reinforcement and behaviour shaping.
(R10) Lindsay, S. (2001). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume 2. Iowa State University Press. Detailed discussion of aggression and leash reactivity.
(R11) Haug, L. (2008). Canine aggression toward unfamiliar people and dogs. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice. Overview of different aggression motivations.
(R12) Jacobs, J., & Vas, J. (2012). Resource guarding behaviour in domestic dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour. Research on guarding and environmental influences.
(R13) Serpell, J., & Duffy, D. (2014). Dog breeds and their behaviour. In The Domestic Dog. Cambridge University Press. Research on breed-related behavioural tendencies.
(R14) Overall, K. L. (2001). Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Small Animals. Mosby. Early clinical framework for understanding behaviour patterns.
(R15) Bensky, M., Gosling, S., & Sinn, D. (2013). The world from a dog’s point of view: A review of canine personality and cognition research. Advances in the Study of Behaviour. Research related to temperament, arousal, and behavioural regulation.
(R16) Liinamo, A.E., Karjalainen, L., & Vainio, O. (2007). Genetic variation in aggression-related traits in Golden Retriever dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 104(1-2), 95–106.
(R17) Sartore, S., et al. (2025). Genetic and Gene-by-Environment Influences on Aggressiveness in Dogs: A Systematic Review from 2000 to 2024. Animals (available via PMC).
(R18) Slabbert, J.M., & Rasa, O.A.E. (1997). Observational learning of an acquired maternal behaviour pattern by working dog pups: an alternative training method? Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 53(4), 309–316.
(R19) MacLean, E.L., Snyder-Mackler, N., vonHoldt, B.M., & Serpell, J.A. (2019). Highly heritable and functionally relevant breed differences in dog behaviour. Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, 286(1912), 20190716. Study of over 14,000 dogs across 101 breeds showing that many behavioural traits in dogs have a strong genetic component.
(R20) Wilson C, et al. Dogs can discriminate between human baseline and psychological stress condition odours. PLoS One. 2022. (R21) Westgarth C, et al. Anxious personality may be linked to heightened dog bite risk. Journal of Epidemiology and Community Health. 2018.
(R22) D’Aniello B, et al. Interspecies transmission of emotional information via chemosignals: from humans to dogs. Animal Cognition. 2018.
(R23) Parr-Cortes Z, et al. The odour of an unfamiliar stressed or relaxed person affects dogs’ responses to a cognitive bias test. Scientific Reports. 2024.
(R24) King, T., Marston, L. C., & Bennett, P. C. (2012). Breeding dogs for beauty and behaviour: Why scientists need to do more to develop valid and reliable behaviour assessments for dogs kept as companions. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 137(1-2), 1-12.
(R25) Hoffman, C. L., Harrison, N., Wolff, L., & Westgarth, C. (2014). Is that dog a pit bull? A cross-country comparison of perceptions of shelter workers regarding breed identification. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 17(4), 322–339. Examines how visual breed identification and public perception influence attitudes toward certain breeds.
(R26) Gunter, L. M., Barber, R. T., & Wynne, C. D. L. (2018). What’s in a name? Effect of breed perceptions and labeling on attractiveness, adoptions, and length of stay for pit-bull-type dogs. PLOS ONE, 13(3), e0194343. Demonstrates how breed labels influence public perception and treatment of dogs, contributing to bias against certain breeds.
(R37) Fox, M. W., & Stelzner, D. (1966). The effects of early experience on social behaviour in dogs. Journal of Genetic Psychology, 108, 95-115. Early mother-pup interactions influence stress response and social confidence.
(R38) Foyer, P., Bjällerhag, N., Wilsson, E., & Jensen, P. (2016). Early experiences affect aggression in adult dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 178, 123-130. Puppies exposed to inconsistent maternal care show higher defensive aggression.
(R39) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Discusses how early maternal behaviour shapes social and aggressive tendencies in dogs.
(R40) Skinner, B. F. (1953). Science and Human Behaviour. Macmillan. Foundational text explaining operant conditioning and the role of reinforcement in shaping behaviour.
(R41) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive veterinary behaviour text discussing defensive and learned aggression patterns in dogs.
(R42) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume 1: Adaptation and Learning. Iowa State University Press. Detailed examination of learning theory and how aggressive responses can be reinforced through successful threat displacement.
(R43) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier. Explains frustration-induced aggression and arousal-related behavioural escalation in dogs.
(R44) Yin, S. (2009). Low stress handling, restraint and behaviour modification of dogs and cats. CattleDog Publishing. Describes how restraint and high arousal can lead to loss of behavioural control and aggressive responses.
(R45) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier. Describes resource guarding as a learned behaviour reinforced by successful retention of valued items.
(R46) Jacobs, J. A., & Seligman, M. E. P. (1976). Learned helplessness and resource control in animals. Journal of Experimental Psychology: Animal Behaviour Processes. Discusses control and reinforcement histories influencing behaviour persistence.
(R47) Mills, D. S., & Nankervis, K. J. (2014). Veterinary behavioural medicine. Wiley-Blackwell. Explains frustration-related behaviours linked to barrier and restraint conditions.
(R48) McPeake, K. J., Collins, L. M., Zulch, H., & Mills, D. S. (2019). The canine frustration questionnaire—development of a new psychometric tool for measuring frustration in domestic dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. Examines frustration tolerance and its behavioural expressions in dogs.
(R49) Mills, D. S., & Nankervis, K. J. (2014). Veterinary behavioural medicine. Wiley-Blackwell. Discusses frustration-related behaviours and barrier-induced aggression in dogs.
(R50) McPeake, K. J., Collins, L. M., Zulch, H., & Mills, D. S. (2019). Development of a canine frustration scale. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. Explores frustration tolerance and behavioural escalation in domestic dogs.
(R51) Coppinger, R., & Coppinger, L. (2001). Dogs: A new understanding of canine origin, behaviour, and evolution. University of Chicago Press. Describes the predatory motor pattern as a functional survival behaviour.
(R52) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier. Differentiates predatory behaviour from affective aggression.
(R53) Predatory aggression in domestic dogs: Hunt motivation and behavioural expression. (Various authors, compiled behavioural literature). Summarizes movement-triggered predatory responses in non-feeding contexts.
(R54) Horowitz, A. (2009). Inside of a dog: What dogs see, smell, and know. Scribner. Discusses instinctive responses to movement and their role in canine behaviour.
(R55) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive guide on behaviour modification and emotional health in dogs.
(R56) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume One: Adaptation and Learning. Iowa State University Press. Foundational principles of learning theory and behaviour change.
(R57) McConnell, P. B. (2002). The Other End of the Leash. Ballantine Books. Explains arousal, stress, and communication in dogs.
(R58) Horowitz, A. (2009). Inside of a Dog. Scribner. Insight into canine cognition, arousal, and behaviour.
(R59) Pryor, K. (2006). Don’t Shoot the Dog. Bantam Books. Practical applications of reinforcement and behaviour shaping.
(R60) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behaviour Modification of Dogs and Cats. CattleDog Publishing. Techniques for reducing stress and improving behavioural outcomes.
(R61) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive guide on emotional regulation and behaviour modification.
(R62) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume One: Adaptation and Learning. Iowa State University Press. Foundational learning theory and threshold concepts.
(R63) Wolpe, J. (1958). Psychotherapy by Reciprocal Inhibition. Stanford University Press. Introduces desensitization and counterconditioning principles.
(R64) McConnell, P. B. (2002). The Other End of the Leash. Ballantine Books. Explains canine communication and body language.
(R65) Rugaas, T. (2005). On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. Dogwise Publishing. Details early stress and calming signals in dogs.
(R66) Sapolsky, R. M. (2004). Why Zebras Don’t Get Ulcers. Holt Paperbacks. Explains stress physiology and regulation.
(R67) Pryor, K. (2006). Don’t Shoot the Dog. Bantam Books. Principles of consistent reinforcement and training.
(R68) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behaviour Modification of Dogs and Cats. CattleDog Publishing. Emphasizes consistency and low-stress training methods.
(R69) Horowitz, A. (2009). Inside of a Dog. Scribner. Insight into canine cognition, stress, and recovery.
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Photo By: static.vecteezy.com

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Bringing a new puppy, dog or baby home is an event that fills families with excitement and anticipation however, it can also lead to a unique set of challenges. Puppies are playful, energetic and curious, while babies are tiny and vulnerable. With careful preparation these new family members can form safe, loving and lasting bonds but without it, it can end in heartbreak. By approaching each step with patience and consistency, you can create a harmonious home where dogs and children thrive together. Your goal is to make this transition as happy and stress-free as possible for everyone involved!

​Preparing your dog for the arrival of a new baby and preparing children before bringing home a new puppy or dog, is essential for preventing behaviour issues, minimizing safety risks and avoiding failed transitions that the dog always ends up paying for.

Without proper preparation, dogs can experience feelings of abandonment, frustration, fear, stress or anxiety, which can lead to behavioural challenges such as demanding behaviour, regression in training, increased sensitivity, reactivity, excitability and resource guarding (R12).

Children who are not properly prepared can overwhelm a new dog through rough handling, yelling, squealing, chasing or not respecting its space. These interactions increase the risk of dog bites along with long-term fear, stress and anxiety for the dog (R13) (R14). Preparing children in advance, along with careful introductions and consistent supervision helps nurture positive associations as well as trust, respect and harmony between dogs and children.

​For families with dogs expecting a baby, the Dogs & Storks® online class from Family Paws Parent Education is an invaluable resource. Led by founder Jennifer Shryock, this 1.5-hour self-paced program helps parents prepare their dogs for the transition to life with a new baby.

The course covers key topics such as (R12):

• Does your dog know you are expecting?
• Your dog’s sensitivities
• Must-know information for expecting families with dogs
• Dog body language
• Success stations for inclusion and safe management
• Preparing for homecoming
• Inclusion for success
• 
  

The Dogs & Storks program emphasizes positive, practical solutions that include the dog rather than exclude it, helping reduce stress for both the dog and the family while supporting healthy bonding.

Bonuses include handouts, the Dogs & Storks webinar, guidance on the 5 Types of Supervision to prevent accidents and promote safety, an online community for parents and other resources (R12). By addressing common questions and offering insight into dog behavior, this course helps prevent conflicts and supports a smoother, lasting transition (R15).

​Preparing a dog for the arrival of a new baby involves proactive training and routine adjustments that can significantly ease the transition for both the dog and family by reducing stress and helping prevent numerous issues. We start this process by reinforcing basic training cues such as ‘sit,’ ‘down,’ ‘stay,’ ‘leave it’ and ‘go to your bed’. This will ensure that the dog responds reliably to instructions and can control itself around the baby (R22).

During pregnancy, gradually introduce any changes that will occur to the dog’s daily routine such as walking times and feeding schedule, to mimic disruptions that are unavoidable with a new baby. This will help the dog adapt before the baby comes home, as well as preventing unpleasant associations and the resulting behaviour problems (R23).

It’s important to desensitize the dog to baby-related sounds by playing recordings of cries, coos, and any other new sounds at a low volume. Gradually increase the volume to realistic levels, rewarding calm behavior with treats and praise to create pleasant associations (R24). You can easily download baby sounds online and follow the desensitization steps.

Another effective strategy is to introduce the dog to the baby’s scent before it arrives. Bring home a blanket, piece of clothing or towel the baby has used, and let the dog sniff it while offering praise, treats or playtime to build a positive association (R25). It can also be helpful to introduce the dog or puppy to other people’s calm and respectful children, and the children to suitable dogs or puppies before the big day.

Use a doll to practice routines such as feeding, diapering and rocking, while teaching the dog to stay calm, keep its paws on the ground or settle on its bed with an appropriate chew (R26). This is also a good opportunity to teach the dog to walk politely beside the empty stroller during daily walks. Allow your dog to explore new baby items under supervision, both before and after the baby arrives, to satisfy curiosity and ease the transition (R28).
Months before the baby comes home, it’s crucial to address any existing behavior issues that could be disruptive or dangerous for the baby, such as barking, jumping up or resource guarding. If necessary, contact an educated, qualified, experienced and positive dog behavior expert to guide you through the process (R31).

To encourage quiet behaviour while the baby is sleeping, start by teaching your dog to engage in calm, independent activities for extended periods of time. Provide appropriate aromatic chew items and enrichment options that will keep the dog occupied. Teaching cues such as ‘settle’ and ‘shush’ and consistently rewarding calm, quiet behaviour can help prevent disturbances when the baby comes home (R27).

Setting up baby gates or exercise pens several days in advance helps establish clear boundaries, such as limiting access to the nursery or keeping the dog out of the way while the baby is on the floor. Create a designated area where your dog can safely chew or enjoy enrichment activities, to provide both safety and peace of mind. Introduce this space weeks ahead so the dog forms a positive association, rather than linking it with isolation or the baby’s arrival. For a list of 50 enrichment ideas, see my article Canine Enrichment.
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To prevent the dog from feeling neglected after the baby comes home, provide plenty of attention through dedicated playtime, walks and cuddle sessions. Enlist help from family members or qualified, positive dog walkers or daycares if needed to ensure that the dog’s needs are met and reinforcing that the baby is an addition to the family, not a replacement (R29). Involve the dog in baby-related activities when appropriate, such as calm stroller walks, supervised greetings or lying nearby while you feed or spend time with the baby. Always supervise interactions and reward good behavior to help the dog feel included and prevent jealousy (R30).

​The first introduction between a new dog or puppy and children is a key step in shaping their lifelong relationships. Focus on calm, controlled and positive experiences to help prevent overwhelming the dog or encouraging behaviors that could lead to nipping or fear (R38). Arrange the initial greeting in a neutral, open space such as a yard, quiet park or spacious indoor area so the dog doesn’t feel cornered and everyone can move comfortably. Keep the dog on a loose leash to allow for gentle redirection if necessary and have the children sit quietly on the ground or a low surface so they appear smaller and less intimidating. Standing, running or loud squealing can frighten or over-stimulate a dog and trigger jumping or mouthing behaviours (R39). Just before the introduction, remind the children of the key rules and demonstrate them clearly; speak softly, avoid sudden movements and allow the dog to approach at its own pace rather than forcing interactions.

As the dog shows interest by sniffing feet, hands or legs, guide the children to offer an open, flat palm with a treat or let the dog sniff a closed fist. This encourages gentle, safe contact and reduces the risk of fingers being nipped. Once the dog is comfortable, allow gentle stroking on the chest, under the chin or along the sides. Avoid hugging or touching the head, face, ears, tail and paws, which can be intrusive or frightening for the dog (R40). Use calm verbal praise and small, healthy treats to reward the dog for relaxed behavior and praise the children for following the rules, to create pleasant associations for everyone.

Keep the first session brief, about 5 to 10 minutes to prevent fatigue or overstimulation. Then guide the dog to a quiet rest area for a nap or chew break while the family decompresses and discusses their first interaction. If at any time the dog shows signs of hesitation or fear such as avoidance, stiff body, lowered posture, tucked tail, avoiding eye contact, lip licking or yawning, or if it displays overly excited behaviour or hard mouthing, calmly end the greeting and start again after a break.

Ongoing supervision is essential! Never leave any young child unsupervised with a dog as playful nips or rough handling can quickly escalate to serious problems. Build their time together gradually with short, frequent, supervised sessions. Always monitor the dog’s body language for signs of stress and immediately intervene by redirecting the dog or providing a brief separation when necessary. Over time, when you learn to trust both the dog and children and depending on the age of the children, you can begin to gradually relax the 100% supervision rule.

​By planning ahead and preparing your home, dogs and children for the changes to come, you can minimize stress, ensure safety and nurture strong relationships from the start. With patience and consistency, these steps can set you up for success and a lifetime of happy memories for the entire family.