By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Puppies and toddlers have a lot in common developmentally, in that they’re both exploring the world for the first time with high energy, short attention spans and big emotions that they don’t yet understand or know how to handle.

For puppies, the early months are all about learning and playing. Because teething occurs from approximately 3 to 7 months of age, mouthing and chewing objects, furniture, clothing and people is quite normal as they relieve their discomfort and test boundaries.

Their critical socialization period ends at approximately 14 weeks of age, during which time pleasant and unpleasant experiences shape their personalities and how they view the world, including children, for the rest of their lives.

When a puppy experiences too much excitement at once it becomes over-stimulated. Signs of overstimulation include zoomies, excessive panting even when it’s not hot, pacing or restlessness, constant jumping, high-pitched barking or whining, dilated pupils, mouthing harder than usual and even a tucked tail with frantic energy. Overstimulation is caused by chaotic movements, loud noises and prolonged high-arousal activities, which is normal behaviour for a running and squealing toddler (R1) (R2). Also keep in mind that dogs that don’t receive enough attention, exercise and mental stimulation are much more likely to become overstimulated.

Toddlers are hard wired for curiosity and big emotions but they have very little control over their impulses. It would be normal for a young child to grab a dog’s tail or ears because they’re fascinating, grab and hug the dog out of affection or chase it because it’s fun, without realizing these behaviours are threatening to the pup.

Young children will miss a dog’s subtle stress signals, including yawning, lip licking, freezing, turning away or whale eye, as it tries to communicate that its overwhelmed and needs space. These children aren’t intentionally misbehaving, they’re just little humans who have yet to learn empathy and boundaries. Understanding that both the puppy and children are going through normal stages of development helps you respond by teaching instead of punishing and leading with calm guidance instead of reacting through frustration (R3).

​The secret to success is planning ahead and maintaining consistent routines, including schedules for both the puppy and children. Although every puppy is different, some young puppies need 18 to 20 hours of sleep daily. They also need attention, meals, outside elimination breaks, walks, play, chew time and mental stimulation. Likewise, a toddler needs consistency with healthy snacks and meals, naps, quiet time to play by themselves and time with friends, siblings and parents. When two responsible adults are available, chaos can be reduced when one parent guides the children while the other guides the puppy, then switch (R4).

​Set your puppy up for success with environmental management by puppy proofing your home the way you would for a toddler. This means closing doors and putting cables, trash, toxic plants, choking hazards and other potentially dangerous objects out of reach. Give your puppy a safe space of its own such as an exercise pen or blocked off area with a comfortable bed, toys and chews, where it can relax, entertain itself and sleep undisturbed.

Baby gates or tall pet gates can be helpful to separate the dog and child during peak energy times. You can prevent your puppy and children from getting their heads stuck between the bars by making sure the space between them is too narrow. When your children need to run to release energy, let them burn it off on one side of the barrier while the dog chills on the other side with a long-lasting chew, stuffed Kong or other enrichment option. This prevents the excitement loop where the children over stimulate the puppy causing it to jump or nip. It also teaches the puppy to entertain itself in its own space, and teaches independence to help prevent separation anxiety (R5).

Never leave a dog and young children unsupervised together, not even for quick bathroom breaks. Young children can accidentally hurt a dog by stepping or falling on it, or by pulling its tail or ears. Not only can this force a dog to defend itself, it can also jump on, nip and knock over tiny humans. Secured barriers give you control and peace of mind without the need for constant supervision.
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Establish house rules from the beginning including never bothering the puppy while it’s eating, sleeping or chewing, and teach the children that the dog’s space is off-limits unless invited in by a parent. Consistency from all adults is important for the rules to be respected and to keep everyone safe (R6).

​Positive training is always the best approach because punishment can inhibit a dog’s ability to think, learn, remember, problem-solve and make choices, which is counter-productive to the learning process. Reprimands can cause stress, anxiety and fear, which dogs can begin to associate not only with the adult correcting them but also with any children who are present at the time. This is a problem not only because living in fear is an unpleasant existence but also because almost all dog aggression is self-defence caused by fear.

Your focus should be on managing the environment and reinforcing the behaviours you want. Reward correct choices with treats, praise, play, affection or anything the dog values. When good behaviour consistently leads to positive outcomes, dogs learn quickly and are far more likely to repeat those behaviours.

Basic cues such as sit, down, stay, come, leave it, drop it, go to your bed and settle – provide the structure required to set the dog up for success. Practising these skills in the morning, before the dog interacts with the children can help release excess energy, which improves focus, self-control, resilience and tolerance for excitement. Consistency from all family members is essential to ensure that the dog receives predictable and easy to understand guidance.

Daily physical exercise and mental stimulation through canine enrichment are non-negotiable. Walks, fetch, tug, puzzles, scent games and training help burn both physical and emotional energy, while reducing the likelihood of boredom, frustration or overstimulation. Safe and healthy chews are also indispensable to keep puppies occupied, for energy release and to redirect teething behaviours toward suitable targets and away from people (R7). For more information about enrichment options see my article Canine Enrichment For Dogs.

Create a safe space where your dog can enjoy alone time. Using this area for breaks ensures safety, encourages independence, helps prevent separation anxiety and shows the dog that being alone can actually be enjoyable. You can also teach your dog to settle by rewarding calm behavior on a mat or dog bed placed near, but not inside the children’s plays area. Over time, your dog will start to trust your children and associate them with positive experiences, rather than being hurt, scared or overwhelmed (R8).

Never underestimate the importance of proactive supervision. Dogs and young children should never be left alone together even if the dog is well trained. Adults should always be watching for early signs of stress indicating that the dog needs space, and step in before the situation escalates. Giving the dog a safe place to retreat to where children are not allowed to follow helps the dog feel safe and secure and prevents conflict.

Socialize the dog and children together with short, positive interactions and reward both for calm behavior. This includes the dog not jumping on or mouthing the children and the children following your instructions.
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Combining positive training, environmental management, proper exercise and mental stimulation with careful supervision helps families build safe, respectful relationships between dogs and children. It also supports everyone’s emotional wellbeing and lays the groundwork for long-term, reliable behaviour. For more information about positive training see my article entitled Positive Dog Training – Science | Ethics | Results.

(R47)

• Excessive panting (not due to heat or exercise)
• Lip licking
• Yawning (out of context)
• Whining, whimpering
• Excessive barking
• Avoiding eye contact or turning away
• Walking away
• Refusing treats, food or play
• Pacing or restlessness​ (R47)

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​(R47)

• Trembling or shaking
• Tail tucked between the legs
• Ears flattened or pinned back
• Cowering or lowering the body
• Hiding or trying to escape/retreat
• Freezing in place
• Submissive urination
• Drooling

​It’s important to involve young children in age-appropriate activities to help build responsibility, empathy and pride in caring for their dog. Start teaching gentle touch by showing the children how to use one finger or an open palm to softly stroke the dog’s back, sides or under the chin – never the face, paws, tail or ears. Teach children to avoid hugging or squeezing and teach young children not to pick up or carry the dog because toddlers lack the motor control required to do so safely. Chasing, teasing and poking must also be prevented and children should never disturb a puppy while it’s eating, sleeping, resting or chewing, as these are common situations where bites occur (R3).

It’s very important to teach children the basics of canine communication and body language, so they can understand when a dog wants to be left alone. A loose body, open mouth and wagging tail usually indicate a relaxed and happy dog, while a stiff body, closed mouth or fast, high wag can signal rising arousal or tension. Other cues such as yawning, turning away, lip licking or freezing will tell them the dog needs space. Always praise the children when they notice and respect these signals (R9).

Demonstrate appropriate behaviour for the children by moving slowly, speaking softly and reading the dog’s body language before touching it. Also discuss and demonstrate not approaching the dog but instead, waiting for the dog to approach you. This allows the dog autonomy in that it can choose whether or not it wants attention at that time. Keep early interactions very short, only a few seconds to a couple minutes at a time to prevent over-stimulating both the children and the dog. Calm and successful interactions are much more important than longer ones and always end on a success and positive note. For more information about autonomy, see my article Autonomy & A Well Behaved Dog.

​Register for puppy classes run by an educated, qualified and experienced, 100% positive dog trainer who welcomes children and encourages the entire family to work as a team. Not only does this increase consistency, it also teaches the children how to properly train and handle a dog. This is when they learn to respect animals and develop skills that will shape how they handle dogs for the rest of their lives, so make it count. This is also a good time to teach them to never approach dogs they don’t know and never without their parent’s permission.

Including children in dog training is crucial, as it helps nurture a trusting, respectful relationship between them and the dog. It also teaches valuable life skills such as responsibility, empathy and compassion through hands-on involvement, while reducing the risk of accidents by showing the children how to interact safely and play appropriately (R18). This participation can boost their confidence and self-esteem as they see the dog respond positively to their guidance, and it helps ensure consistency in the household for a well-adjusted and happy dog (R19).

The best way to teach responsibility is to start with supervised, age-appropriate tasks such as helping with feeding, grooming, walking or basic training. From there, you can move onto fun activities like hand-feeding meals, playing games such as fetch or hide-and-seek and practicing easy cues such as “sit” or “down” using positive training methods and rewards (R20). As they get the hang of it, teach them to watch the dog’s body language for any signs of stress caused by training. When they identify these communications, they can ask for a simple cue such as “sit” and reward the puppy, followed by a break to allow it to relax and clear its mind (R21). This way, the children learn to be aware and compassionate, while always ending with a success.

​A child’s excitement is the number-one trigger for a dog becoming over-stimulated. When children start running and squealing, a puppy will match the energy with jumping, barking, mouthing and hyperactivity. For situations such as these your best solution is prevention and re-direction not reaction.

When a child’s energy spikes and it’s necessary to separate them, be proactive by giving the puppy something else to do behind a barrier. You can then let the child burn off steam while the puppy safely enjoys a chew, game or toy. The same goes for when the puppy’s energy spikes. Watch for early signs such as pacing, heavy panting or frantic play and intervene with separation or redirection before it escalates. This breaks the energy cycle and allows both time to control themselves and decompress. (R1) (R2).

​The Doggone Safe bite prevention program created by Joan Orr and Teresa Lewin is a game-changer. Their Be A Tree technique for responding to jumping up or mouthing teaches the following. If the dog jumps or mouths, BE A TREE: stop moving, fold your branches (arms at your sides or crossed low in front of you), be very quiet, avoid eye contact and slowly and quietly turn away from the dog. It’s important to not touch or push the dog, make any noise, walk or run because that increases the puppy’s excitement. Be quiet, still and slowly turn away.

This removes the fun for the pup and with repetition it learns that jumping and biting doesn’t work to get attention. If the dog continues to jump or mouth, calmly and quietly move the dog behind the barrier. When it’s calm and quiet it can come out again. Parents should demonstrate and practice being a tree with the children and praise them for doing it correctly. This empowers the children, reduces fear and has been proven effective as a bite prevention tool (R11) (R12).

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Games such as chasing, rough housing, tug-o-war and retrieval can be used to teach a dog self control and to a void putting it’s mouth on people, as long as the games are played with rules. Games with rules teaches the dog self control and to make correct choices in order to keep playing.

Rule # One

Use only one cue to start the game, such as ‘let’s play’ and one to end it, such as ‘finished.’ It doesn’t matter which words you use as long as they are used consistently and always means the same thing. You should always be in control by deciding when the game starts and ends with no exceptions, and the game must always end the moment you say so. If the dog doesn’t stop playing on cue simply leave the room and close the door.
Resource control is the foundation of our training. Rule number one of resource control is to ignore demands, so it’s important to never begin the game when the dog demands it. For more information about resource control see our article entitled Dominance – The Dirty Word Of Dog Training.

Rule # Two

Keep your games short to avoid over-stimulating the dog. The longer you play, the higher the dog’s energy rises making it more difficult to control. Thirty seconds at a time is plenty to start, followed by a ‘settle down’ or self-control training exercise. When the dog is calm, the game can resume. As the dog learns to control itself while playing, you can gradually increase the length of your play sessions.

Rule # Three

When playing tug-o-war, use one toy only so the dog does not attempt to play tug at inappropriate times or with inappropriate objects. Keep your tug toy out of reach until you bring it out and invite the dog to play. When the game is finished, put the toy away.

Rule # Four

This is the most important rule and must be followed consistently. If so much as one tooth touches you or your child’s skin or clothing, whether it’s gentle or hard, accidental or on purpose, give your cue to end the game and it must end immediately. When the dog is biting clothing, you can’t tell how hard it’s biting and if it accidentally grabs skin as well, it can hurt.

Begin by playing outside a bedroom or bathroom door or inside your pup’s safe area. Sit on the floor and give your ‘let’s play’ cue to entice the dog to start

playing. The second you feel a tooth, the dog touches clothing with its mouth or ignores a cue, quietly stand up, slip through the door and close it behind you or leave the pup’s safe area. When the dog is calm and quiet, resume playing.

This rule will teach the dog to avoid using its teeth to keep you playing the game and a dog that’s proactively avoiding human contact with its mouth is a lot less likely to ever bite someone. Teaching a ‘leave it’ cue is also valuable for the dog to learn bite inhibition and self control.

​Young children need motivation as much as dogs do and they love visuals and rewards. To encourage them to proactively participate in doing what’s in the dog’s best interest you can create a fun reward system just for them. Set up a chart on the fridge, maybe a dog-themed piece of paper that you will adorn with stickers or checkmarks. Every time the child does something helpful, such as gentle petting, giving space when the puppy asks for it, identifying a communication or assisting with training – go to the chart together, add a check mark or sticker and explain exactly why. ‘You gave the puppy space when he was chewing, that was great!’. After a predetermined number of check marks or stickers, the child earns a small reward such as extra play or story time, a favourite snack, a new colouring book and crayons, a trip to the park or something else they value.

This focus on positive behaviour builds confidence and associates correct choices with pleasant outcomes. It strengthens the bond between the child and dog and instead of perceiving it as a chore, the child views helping as a fun and rewarding game. Reward systems make compassion and good behaviour motivating for little ones, while promoting learning and a thoughtful and respectful child (R10).

Any time you’re unsure about how to handle an issue with the dog or between the dog and children, reach out to an educated, qualified and positive dog training and behavior expert for guidance, as punishing the child or dog will do more harm than good and does not teach either of them what you want them to do. It can also be helpful to keep a training journal to track your progress with both the children and dog (R13).

(R1) Honest Paws – Overstimulated Dogs: Signs, Causes and Supportive Strategies
(R2) Woodgreen Pets Charity / Various expert sources on dog overstimulation signs
(R3) Oh My Dog Blog – Dogs and Toddlers: A realistic guide
(R4) Animal Humane Society – Expert advice on raising young kids with canines
(R5) Animal Humane Society / Augusta Dog Training – Environmental management tips
(R6) ASPCA / Humane Society resources on supervision
(R7) The Spruce Pets / NASC – Positive reinforcement training for puppies around kids
(R8) Beyond the Dog / Various positive trainers on socialization
(R9) Animal Humane Society – Dog body language basics
(R10) Pooch Parenting – Reward Chart for Good Behavior – Kids and Dogs
(R11) Doggone Safe / Family Paws – BE A TREE! Don’t FLEE!
(R12) Humane Broward / Pet Professional Guild – Be a Tree program details
(R13) IAABC Journal / Various expert sources on common challenges and professional help
(R12) Family Paws Parent Education. (n.d.). Dogs & Storks Online Class. https://www.familypaws.com/courses/dogs-storks/
(R13) Nemours KidsHealth. (n.d.). Preventing Dog Bites. https://kidshealth.org/en/parents/dog-bites.html
(R14) Best Friends Animal Society. (n.d.). Prevent a Dog From Biting Children. https://bestfriends.org/pet-care-resources/how-prevent-dog-biting-children
(R15) Family Paws Parent Education. (n.d.). How We Support Families. https://www.familypaws.com/how-we-support-families
(R16) Preventive Vet. (2024). Prevent Dog Bites: Dog and Child Safety Tips. https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/prevent-dog-bites-with-children
(R17) Purina. (2025). Introducing Puppies and Children: The Essential Guide. https://www.purina.co.uk/articles/dogs/dog/behaviour/introducing-puppies-and-children
(R18) Animal Humane Society. ‘Expert advice on raising young kids with canines.’ https://www.animalhumanesociety.org/resource/expert-advice-raising-young-kids-canines
(R19) Facebook. ‘Including kids in dog training for a closer bond.’ https://www.facebook.com/groups/CampbellK9University/posts/3011858312372551
(R20) River Landings Animal Clinic. ‘4 Ways to Involve Kids in Dog Training.’ http://www.riverlandingsanimalclinic.com/news/2021/1/19/4-ways-to-involve-kids-in-dog-training
(R21) Beyond the Dog Training. ‘How to include children in raising a dog.’ https://beyondthedogtraining.com/dog-training/how-to-include-children-in-raising-a-dog
(R22) Babylist. ‘What to Know About Preparing Your Dog for Baby.’ https://www.babylist.com/hello-baby/how-to-prepare-dog-for-baby
(R23) Hilton Butler. ‘How to Prepare Your Dog for a New Baby.’ https://www.hiltonbutler.com/blog/prepare-dog-for-new-baby
(R24) Dog Meets Baby. ‘How To Prepare Your Dog For Baby Coming Home.’ https://www.dogmeetsbaby.expert/post/how-to-prepare-your-dog-for-baby-coming-home-2
(R25) Facebook. ‘Preparing Your Dog for a New Baby with 7 Essential Steps.’ https://www.facebook.com/groups/thelibary/posts/8557966134234989
(R26) ASPCA. ‘Dogs and Babies.’ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/dogs-and-babies R27 Animal Humane Society. ‘Preparing your pet for a new baby.’ https://www.animalhumanesociety.org/resource/preparing-your-pet-new-baby
(R28) Oregon Humane Society. ‘Preparing Your Pet for Baby’s Arrival.’ https://www.oregonhumane.org/portland-training/preparing-your-pet-for-babys-arrival
(R29) Toronto Humane Society. ‘Preparing Your Dog for a New Baby.’ https://www.torontohumanesociety.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Dog-and-Baby-Prep-Info-Sheet.pdf
(R30) Dog Gone Problems. ‘Free Tips for Newborns and Dogs: Preparing Dogs for a New Baby.’ https://www.doggoneproblems.com/jerry-morty-prep-for-new-baby
(R31) Twin Cities Birth Center. ‘Preparing Your Pooch for Baby’s Arrival.’ https://www.twincitiesbc.com/blog/preparing-your-pooch-for-babys-arrival
(R32) Whole Dog Journal. ‘Puppies and Kids: How to Set Up for Success.’ https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/puppies/puppies-kids-how-to-set-up-for-success
(R33) The Dog Academy. ‘Doghood Made Easy for New Owners: The Dos and Don’ts of Puppies & Kids!’ https://www.thedogacademy.com/blog/2021/7/12/doghood-made-easy-for-new-owners-the-dos-and-donts-of-puppies-amp-kids
(R34) Lupa K9. ‘How to Prepare Kids for a New Dog.’ (adapted from similar sources; cross-referenced with Humane Society guidelines)
(R35) Humane Society of Sonoma County. ‘Preparing Kids for a New Dog.’ https://humanesocietysoco.org/dog-training/preparing-kids-for-a-new-dog
(R36) The Everymom. ‘How to Prep Your Family for a Dog.’ https://theeverymom.com/how-to-prep-your-family-for-a-dog
(R37) Eastern Sierra Dog Rescue. ‘How to prepare children to welcome a new pet.’ https://www.easternsierradogrescue.com/blog/how-to-prepare-children-to-welcome-new-pet
(R38) Purina UK. ‘Easy Guide to Introducing Puppies and Children.’ https://www.purina.co.uk/articles/dogs/dog/behaviour/introducing-puppies-and-children
(R39) RSPCA Knowledgebase. ‘How do I introduce a new dog or dog to children?’ https://kb.rspca.org.au/knowledge-base/how-do-i-introduce-a-new-dog-or-dog-to-children (R40) Preventive Vet. ‘How to Introduce a Dog or Adult Dog to Your Children.’ https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-introduce-a-dog-or-adult-dog-to-your-children R41) Jinx. ‘How to Introduce a New Dog to Children.’ https://www.thinkjinx.com/blogs/news/how-to-introduce-a-new-dog-to-children
(R41) Dog Power Basic Training Manual. Available at: https://www.scribd.com/document/809687110/dog-power-basic-training-manual (This document contains near-verbatim sections on game rules, including the four rules described, structured play for self-control, and the tooth-contact shutdown for teaching bite inhibition and respect for human flesh.)
(R42) Ibid. (Direct quote: ‘Games without rules increase your dog’s control over you.’)
(R43) Canine Correspondence Studies with Norma Jeanne, ‘Dominance – The Dirty Word of Dog Training.’ Available at: https://dogtrainingcareers.com/dominance-the-dirty-word-of-dog-training (Explains benevolent leadership Rule #1 as ‘Ignore all Demands,’ with cross-references to controlling play initiation.)
(R44) Ibid., Dog Power Basic Training Manual (Emphasizes this as the ‘MOST IMPORTANT RULE’ with the exact phrasing about one tooth touching clothing or flesh ending the game immediately.)
(R45) https://www.familypaws.com/courses/dog-toddlers/
(R46) https://www.dogstardaily.com/blog/4-rules-for-games-with-your-dog/
(R47) American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). (n.d.). Puppy Socialization Position Statement. AVSAB. (Emphasizes recognizing and preventing fear through proper socialization; notes risks of overwhelming puppies leading to fear responses.)
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Photo By Freepi

By Norma Jeanne Laurette ​

​Science has proven that a lot of aggression in dogs is rooted in fear. This understanding has helped the dog training profession progress toward positive training methods and away from outdated theories about dominance and punishment. The majority of dogs are reactive or aggressive because they feel threatened or unsafe however, trainers who work extensively with these dogs quickly realize that not all aggressive behaviour presents as fear. What we are seeing is that a significant number of dogs that bark, lunge, guard, chase or confront are not trying to escape or protect themselves, instead they are trying to achieve something. These non-fearful behaviours are driven by frustration, high arousal, resource control, predation, genetics and/or a history of reinforcement, not self-defence (R2) (R8).

​There are two motivations for aggressive or reactive behaviour: The first is “I want it” and the second is “I want it to go away.” Fear-based aggression involves the “I want it to go away” motivation, as the dog’s goal is to create distance from the trigger in order to feel safe. The dog is trying to escape from and avoid the situation and push the threat away.

Non-fearful aggressive behaviour appears quite different. In these cases, the dog is experiencing the “I want it” motivation and is trying to reach the trigger, interact, chase or control the situation. We often see this in dogs that react strongly on leash yet behave in a friendly manner off leash. When this happens, the leash becomes a barrier that increases frustration rather than indicating a real threat (R10). The truth is that many leash-reactive dogs are friendly off leash or once interaction is possible, indicating the behaviour was driven by frustration rather than fear (R10).

However, frustration-based reactivity driven by the “I want it” motivation doesn’t always mean the dog will be friendly once it gains access. For some dogs, the intense drive to reach the other dog or person can spill over into rough or aggressive behaviour once the barrier is removed. Highly aroused dogs often struggle with self-control during these interactions, which can lead to intense greetings, pushy behaviour, bullying or even snapping and biting. This is especially common in dogs with poor social skills or a history of being reinforced for their behaviour, where their intensity has previously helped them get what they want. In these cases, the original “I want it” motivation can escalate into frustration-induced aggression when the dog’s arousal exceeds its coping ability, proving that “I want it” reactivity does not always result in safe or appropriate social interactions (R43) (R44).

​Boundary Frustration

Boundary frustration aggression occurs when a dog is prevented from accessing something it’s motivated to reach, such as another dog, person, object or location. The barrier may be physical such as a leash, fence, crate or doorway, or situational such as restraint by a handler. The dog’s behaviour escalates not from a need to retain control, but from an inability to cope with the frustration of being denied access. This can result in lunging, barking or vocalizing and often increases in intensity the longer access is denied. Unlike fear-based aggression, this motivation is goal-directed and the escalation is associated with an increase of frustration, a lack of tolerance control and a history of reinforcement for persistent attempts to gain access (R47) (R48).

Resource Control

Resource control aggression occurs when a dog’s intent is to maintain possession of, or control over valued items, spaces, or interactions and attention from others. These resources can include food, toys, resting places, doorways, preferred people and other animals. In many cases, the dog appears calm until someone attempts to approach or remove the resource, move the dog or otherwise interfere. Rather than withdrawing, the dog maintains its position and escalates its behaviour. For some dogs this occurs very quickly, while for others, it can gradually escalate in intensity and can include stiffening, staring, growling, and biting. This pattern is typically shaped by reinforcement history, where maintaining control over the resource has been successful. Although driven by a fear of losing the valued resource, this is not a defensive behaviour or the behaviour of a frightened dog, instead, it reflects confident, learned behaviour in which the dog has figured out that aggressive behaviour works to get what it wants (R45) (R46).

Predation (Not Movement Or Food Triggered)

Predatory aggression refers to situations where elements of the innate predatory drive are triggered by movement such as a running dog, child, cyclist, vehicle, etc., but are not followed by consumption. In these cases, the behaviour is still driven by the natural hunting instinct, but is different because although the dog may chase, grab or bite, the ultimate goal is not to catch and eat its prey. This behaviour is fast and quiet, with no body language warning signals, setting it apart from fear and frustration-based aggression. Although it can cause injury, this behaviour isn’t driven by fear, anger or resource guarding instead, it comes from instinctive, hardwired responses to movement (R53) (R54).

Predation (Survival-Based – Not Aggression)

When expressed in the context of hunting for the purpose of catching, killing and eating prey, predation is not considered aggression in the traditional sense. Instead, it’s a normal survival instinct controlled by the predatory pattern of orient, stalk, chase, grab, kill and consume. This behaviour is self-rewarding and helps the dog fulfil its instinctive need to eat. The sequence is typically silent, efficient and not preceded by threat displays or emotional escalation. Because its goal is nourishment rather than conflict, it’s more accurately classified as a feeding behaviour pattern rather than aggression (R51) (R52).

High Arousal

High arousal is another major factor that can produce behaviours that look aggressive. In this situation a dog’s emotional arousal can become so high that it can no longer think clearly or control its behaviour. At this point, the dog is essentially over threshold and its thinking brain is no longer in charge. Many dogs live in environments with constant stimulation, frequent excitement, repeated exposure to triggers, high activity levels and limited opportunities to rest. Over time, their baseline arousal stays elevated. When a trigger appears, the dog may already be close to its threshold, resulting in reactions that seem sudden or extreme (R4) (R15). For dogs that live in a constant state of high arousal, healing the vagus nerve is an important part of rehabilitation because calming the dog’s nervous system is essential for nurturing self-control. For more information see my article Healing The Vagus Nerve For A Calmer Dog.

Reinforcement History

Reinforcement history also plays a significant role in aggressive behaviour. When a behaviour repeatedly gets the dog what it wants, it becomes more deeply rooted and more efficient, increasing the likelihood that it will happen again and increase in intensity. Dogs learn quickly which actions influence their environment and no matter which motivation it is, if barking and lunging makes people step back, the dog will use it when necessary. If guarding keeps a resource safe, the behaviour becomes more consistent and if lunging and barking makes the frightening stimulus go away, it will become a fearful dog’s default behaviour. From the dog’s perspective, escalation works, and dogs will do whatever works to get what they want (R9) (R12). One of the most beneficial approaches trainers and guardians can use when dealing with aggression is asking one simple question: What is the dog trying to achieve? Behaviour is about outcomes and dogs repeat behaviours that work (R1) (R9).

Aggression That Appears Confident But Is Really Fear-Based

Sometimes aggression can look confident and deliberate, but the motivation behind it is self-defence. In other words, the dog has learned a “get them before they get me” strategy. Through experience, the dog learns that if it acts aggressively toward a person or another dog with enough intensity, they will back off. When this happens, the aggressive behaviour successfully creates distance from the perceived threat. Because it reliably removes something the dog finds uncomfortable, the behaviour is reinforced through negative reinforcement, which means removing an unpleasant stimulus to strengthen a behaviour (R40) (R42). Over time, as the dog becomes confident that this strategy works, its body language can start to look offensive rather than defensive.

The ability to smell emotional changes can also influence a dog’s choices and behaviour (R21) (R23). Dogs can detect chemical changes associated with stress and fear, including hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline (R20) (R22). When another dog or person becomes fearful, it can not only understand the associated body language, it can also smell the change in emotion through chemical changes in the blood. When it recognizes that a dog or person has become stressed or afraid, it can feel empowered in that it knows a fearful dog or person is less likely to defend itself or fight back. This can result in a fearful dog becoming more confident in it’s ability to get the other dog or person to back off and as a result, its behaviour begins to appear more confident than fearful.

​Observational Learning

Puppies are incredible observers and fast learners. In their first weeks of life, they watch their mother and littermates closely and copy what they see. If a mother calmly guards her food bowl or sets clear boundaries, the pups often adopt that same style. This type of observational learning happens naturally.

Maternal Influence

Puppies whose mothers are attentive and consistent during weaning tend to be less aggressive as adults, while inconsistent or overly harsh interactions can strengthen more assertive behavioural patterns (R18). Maternal influence helps shape social skills and self-control, even in confident, non-fearful puppies (R37) (R39).

Genetics

Science has proven that genetics influence not only a dog’s appearance but also its health and behaviour. Traits such as arousal levels, persistence, sensitivity to movement, territorial responses, fearfulness, impulsivity and social motivation can all be inherited, and these traits can affect a dog’s likelihood of displaying aggressive behaviours (R3) (R13). These traits are not inherently problematic and do not automatically lead to aggression, but they do shape how easily certain behaviours can develop. When puppies are bred from parents with these traits, genetics can play a significant role in the development of aggression. Research has found high heritability scores in certain breeds, indicating that inherited traits can strongly influence behaviour (R17). However, breed alone is not a reliable predictor, as substantial variations exist within breeds and breed lines (R24) (R25).

​Dog training has evolved significantly over the past few decades. Recognizing fear as a major driver of behaviour was an important step forward however, the next step is to improve our observational skills to ensure accurate diagnosis. Fear explains a lot of cases, but not all. When trainers and guardians take a step back and think about what the dog is trying to accomplish with its behaviour, it’s much easier to understand the problem and create a training plan that actually works. By doing so we can improve safety, while solving reactivity and aggression problems with precision. Changing any behaviour takes time, but with accurate assessment, the right approach, patience and consistency – success is achievable. For more information about our approach to aggression modification see our article entitled Canine Aggression – When Dogs Are Aggressive & Holistic Treatments.

Always remember to be kind to yourself as well because some days will be more challenging than others. Never hesitate to give the dog something to do on one side of the secured barrier with the children on the other in order to take breaks when you need them, and never be afraid to ask for help. Raising and training dogs and children together can be fun and rewarding and by planning ahead, you can fully embrace the journey.

​(R1) Skinner, B. F. (1953). Science and Human Behaviour. Macmillan. Foundational explanation of reinforcement and behaviour change.
(R2) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive resource on canine emotional states and aggression.
(R3) Coppinger, R., & Coppinger, L. (2001). Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behaviour and Evolution. University of Chicago Press. Explores genetic influences on behaviour and working dog traits.
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(R9) Pryor, K. (1999). Don’t Shoot the Dog. Bantam Books. Accessible explanation of reinforcement and behaviour shaping.
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(R39) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Discusses how early maternal behaviour shapes social and aggressive tendencies in dogs.
(R40) Skinner, B. F. (1953). Science and Human Behaviour. Macmillan. Foundational text explaining operant conditioning and the role of reinforcement in shaping behaviour.
(R41) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive veterinary behaviour text discussing defensive and learned aggression patterns in dogs.
(R42) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume 1: Adaptation and Learning. Iowa State University Press. Detailed examination of learning theory and how aggressive responses can be reinforced through successful threat displacement.
(R43) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier. Explains frustration-induced aggression and arousal-related behavioural escalation in dogs.
(R44) Yin, S. (2009). Low stress handling, restraint and behaviour modification of dogs and cats. CattleDog Publishing. Describes how restraint and high arousal can lead to loss of behavioural control and aggressive responses.
(R45) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier. Describes resource guarding as a learned behaviour reinforced by successful retention of valued items.
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(R49) Mills, D. S., & Nankervis, K. J. (2014). Veterinary behavioural medicine. Wiley-Blackwell. Discusses frustration-related behaviours and barrier-induced aggression in dogs.
(R50) McPeake, K. J., Collins, L. M., Zulch, H., & Mills, D. S. (2019). Development of a canine frustration scale. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. Explores frustration tolerance and behavioural escalation in domestic dogs.
(R51) Coppinger, R., & Coppinger, L. (2001). Dogs: A new understanding of canine origin, behaviour, and evolution. University of Chicago Press. Describes the predatory motor pattern as a functional survival behaviour.
(R52) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of clinical behavioural medicine for dogs and cats. Elsevier. Differentiates predatory behaviour from affective aggression.
(R53) Predatory aggression in domestic dogs: Hunt motivation and behavioural expression. (Various authors, compiled behavioural literature). Summarizes movement-triggered predatory responses in non-feeding contexts.
(R54) Horowitz, A. (2009). Inside of a dog: What dogs see, smell, and know. Scribner. Discusses instinctive responses to movement and their role in canine behaviour.
(R55) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive guide on behaviour modification and emotional health in dogs.
(R56) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume One: Adaptation and Learning. Iowa State University Press. Foundational principles of learning theory and behaviour change.
(R57) McConnell, P. B. (2002). The Other End of the Leash. Ballantine Books. Explains arousal, stress, and communication in dogs.
(R58) Horowitz, A. (2009). Inside of a Dog. Scribner. Insight into canine cognition, arousal, and behaviour.
(R59) Pryor, K. (2006). Don’t Shoot the Dog. Bantam Books. Practical applications of reinforcement and behaviour shaping.
(R60) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behaviour Modification of Dogs and Cats. CattleDog Publishing. Techniques for reducing stress and improving behavioural outcomes.
(R61) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Comprehensive guide on emotional regulation and behaviour modification.
(R62) Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume One: Adaptation and Learning. Iowa State University Press. Foundational learning theory and threshold concepts.
(R63) Wolpe, J. (1958). Psychotherapy by Reciprocal Inhibition. Stanford University Press. Introduces desensitization and counterconditioning principles.
(R64) McConnell, P. B. (2002). The Other End of the Leash. Ballantine Books. Explains canine communication and body language.
(R65) Rugaas, T. (2005). On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. Dogwise Publishing. Details early stress and calming signals in dogs.
(R66) Sapolsky, R. M. (2004). Why Zebras Don’t Get Ulcers. Holt Paperbacks. Explains stress physiology and regulation.
(R67) Pryor, K. (2006). Don’t Shoot the Dog. Bantam Books. Principles of consistent reinforcement and training.
(R68) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behaviour Modification of Dogs and Cats. CattleDog Publishing. Emphasizes consistency and low-stress training methods.
(R69) Horowitz, A. (2009). Inside of a Dog. Scribner. Insight into canine cognition, stress, and recovery.
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