By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​​Although bringing a new puppy home is exciting, those first nights can be exhausting. Young puppies rarely sleep through the night right away because of small bladders, limited self-soothing skills, the sudden change of being taken away from their mother and littermates, and being relocated to a home where everything is new. With proper environmental management, consistent routines and patience, puppies will gradually learn to sleep for longer periods of time until they sleep peacefully through the night. Although how long it takes can vary from dog to dog depending on breed, size and temperament, most puppies learn to sleep though by 12 to 16 weeks of age and many a lot sooner (R2) (R5).

​In their early weeks, puppies need approximately 18 to 20 hours of sleep per day to support growth and development, and as they mature, they gradually begin to sleep for longer periods at night.
 
A useful guideline is that a puppy should be able to hold its bladder for roughly its age in months plus one hour, which means at the beginning, it’s realistic to expect one or more trips outside through the night. This will decrease as bladder control improves (R4) (R8).

Some young puppies can hold their bladder throughout the night because, much like humans, their bodies enter a deeper state of rest and physiological “shutdown” during sleep. Reduced activity, slower metabolism and less fluid processing mean urine production slows down significantly. This natural night time effect can override the common guideline that a puppy can typically hold its bladder only for about as many hours as its age in months plus one.

Most young puppies wake mainly because they need to eliminate, although separation anxiety caused by being removed from their mother and littermates can also contribute. Medical issues such as, but not limited to UTI’s (urinary tract infection) are less common but should be ruled out by a veterinarian if waking is excessive or accompanied by other symptoms including frequent urination, excessively licking the genital area, straining, whimpering or crying while urinating, blood in urine, pink or cloudy urine and foul smelling urine (R6) (R10). For more information about house training see my article entitled Potty Training A Puppy: The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.
 
Being aware of how much sleep a puppy requires, some of my clients attempt to force their puppies to sleep most of the day. This is not necessary in fact, forcing a puppy to relax when its full of energy can cause frustration, stress and anxiety. As long as the opportunity is there, most puppies will remove themselves for a nap when they need to. It’s important to allow a puppy to sleep undisturbed when it so chooses, but just as important to not attempt to force it to sleep when it’s not ready.

Dogs thrive on predictability and as a result, meals, exercise, play and bedtime should be at roughly the same times every day. This helps establish their internal body clock (R1) (R2).
 
In the evening:

• Provide physical exercise and mental stimulation up to an hour before bed such as; walks, play, short training sessions, canine enrichment (games, puzzle toys, chewing) so your puppy is pleasantly tired.
• Avoid high-energy games in the last 30 to 60 minutes before bed to prevent over-stimulated.
• Feed the last meal 3 to 4 hours before bed to allow for digestion before settling in.
• Restrict access to water an hour before bed then take a final outdoor elimination break right before calling it a night (R2) (R3) (R5).

 
For 50 canine enrichment options see my article Canine Enrichment: Best Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention.
 
A consistent wind-down sequence such as a short, slow, sniff walk or cuddle time, followed by a calm trip outside to eliminate before entering the sleeping area will let your puppy know when it’s time to sleep.

Many experts recommend starting with a properly sized crate, just large enough for your puppy to stand, turn around and lie down comfortably, but not so spacious that one end becomes a bathroom. Another option is to use an exercise pen with newspapers or pee pads at one end to allow for night elimination. A tarp can be placed under the X pen with the edges outside of the pen to protect the rug or floor, and to prevent your puppy from chewing on the tarp. Place the crate or exercise pen beside your bed so your puppy can hear and smell you. This can help to reduce separation anxiety caused by leaving its mother and littermates (R9) (R1).
 
Make your puppy’s space inviting:

• Provide soft, washable bedding but remove it if your puppy chews or soils it.
• Give your puppy a worn T-shirt that smells like or a blanket from its litter so it doesn’t feel alone.
• Add a safe chew toy or hard bully stick to help your puppy settle. Your bully stick needs to be hard to prevent your puppy from ingesting too much, resulting in a need to eliminate.
• Cover three sides of the crate or X pen with a light blanket for a den-like, darker environment that encourages melatonin production and rest.

(R1) (R7)
 
Introduce the crate or X pen in a positive manner during the day with meals, treats, chew and canine enrichment options, while introducing closed-door sessions so it never feels like punishment. At bedtime, use a calm cue (“go to bed”) and reward your puppy for entering quietly. For more information about crate training see my article Crate Training A Puppy & Why A Crate Is Only One Option.

Although many have strong opinions about this, my opinion is that this is always a personal choice. Our dogs are allowed to sleep on our bed if they so choose, so our puppies are on the bed from the day they come home. To set us up for success we put little bells on their collars so if they wake in the night we can take them out to prevent accidents on the bed, and after decades of raising many puppies, we’ve never had one.
 
The more important question to ask is what you want long term. Dogs learn patterns and routines, and changing them can cause stress and anxiety, which can lead to behaviour problems and compromise emotional wellbeing. Because of this, it's better to establish the sleeping arrangement you want for the rest your dog’s life from the onset, instead of introducing one routine and changing it later (R3) (R6).

When your puppy cries, it’s important to first understand the likely cause. If it’s been a few hours and you’ve reached or are close to the age-related bladder capacity, take a calm, boring trip outside to eliminate. Put the leash on and take your puppy outside with quiet and minimal talking and no play. Praise your puppy calmly immediately after eliminating, then go straight to bed. Keep the lights low and interaction brief so your puppy doesn’t learn that getting up at night means fun and extra attention (R7) (R1). Setting an alarm slightly before the usual waking time can prevent your puppy from learning that crying gets attention (R8). Gradually extend the intervals between outside breaks as your puppy matures and you achieve success. For more information about house training, see my article Potty Training: The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.
 
If your puppy has recently eliminated and starts crying after all of its needs have been met, give it a few minutes to see if it settles on its own. Mild fussing or attention behaviour can be briefly ignored. If your puppy continues or becomes increasingly distressed, calmly reassure it without turning the interaction into playtime. Slide your fingers between the bars and speak softly to your puppy to provide quiet contact until it relaxes, then gradually move away. Your goal is to help your puppy feel safe while also giving it opportunities to learn how to settle independently.
 
If your puppy still doesn’t settle, don’t allow it to become increasingly distressed. Take it outside for a quiet bathroom break, even if it recently had one. Check that it isn’t too hot or cold, thirsty (if it’s hot), uncomfortable, frightened or over-stimulated. Keep the interactions calm and quiet rather than turning it into playtime. If your puppy’s physical needs have been met but it still can’t settle, stay close and provide quiet reassurance until it calms down. Some puppies need more support than others before they are capable of settling independently, particularly when they are very young and adjusting to a new home.

• Ensure sufficient exercise and mental stimulation during the day without over-tiring your puppy, which can cause crankiness.
• Use white noise or a fan to mask household sounds and provide comfort.
• Keep the sleeping area dim and quiet, and minimize your own night noise and movement as much as possible during the adjustment period.
• Be patient and consistent, you should begin to see progress within 1 to 4 weeks and often sooner (R6) (R2).

 
If challenges continue beyond the expected age milestones, it’s important to look at other possible contributors. If your puppy shows signs of being unwell in any way contact your vet, and if it shows continued signs of separation anxiety, consult a qualified and experienced positive behaviour expert.

Teaching a puppy to sleep through the night is not about forcing it to sleep longer, it’s about supporting natural development with structure, comfort and consistency. If you maintain a consistent routine and respond appropriately to meet its needs, both you and your puppy will soon be enjoying peaceful nights.

(R1) Dogster. How to Get a Puppy to Sleep Through the Night: 6 Vet-Reviewed Tips. https://www.dogster.com/dog-health-care/help-puppy-sleep-through-night/
(R2) ManyPets. How to help your puppy sleep through the night. https://manypets.com/uk/articles/how-to-help-your-puppy-sleep-through-the-night/
(R3) Whole Dog Journal. How to Get a Puppy to Sleep Through the Night. https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/puppies/how-to-get-a-puppy-to-sleep-through-the-night/
(R4) PetsRadar. How to get a puppy to sleep through the night: 5 tips from a vet. https://www.petsradar.com/advice/how-to-make-puppies-sleep-5-tips-to-help-you-and-your-puppy-get-through-the-night
(R5) Chewy. How To Get a Puppy To Sleep Through the Night. https://www.chewy.com/education/dog/new-dog/how-to-teach-your-puppy-to-sleep-through-the-night
(R6) SpectrumCare. Puppy Sleep Training: Helping a Puppy Sleep Through the Night. https://spectrumcare.pet/dogs/training/puppy-sleep-training
(R7) Preventive Vet. How to Help Your Puppy Sleep Through the Night. https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-help-puppy-sleep-through-the-night
(R8) Pupford. How to Get Your Puppy to Sleep Through the Night. https://pupford.com/blogs/all/puppy-sleep-through-night
(R9) Rover. How To Crate Train a Puppy at Night. https://www.rover.com/blog/crate-training-at-night/
(R10) Chewy (additional notes on medical issues). https://www.chewy.com/education/dog/new-dog/how-to-teach-your-puppy-to-sleep-through-the-night
 
Photo By Greg Ceci

By Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Bringing home a new puppy is exciting, but it also comes with many responsibilities. One of the first questions new puppy guardians often ask is, “Should I crate train my puppy?” Crate training is a common recommendation, and when introduced properly, a crate can be a useful tool. It can provide a safe den to rest in, help prevent unwanted chewing when a puppy can’t be supervised, assist with housebreaking and prepare a dog for situations where confinement may be necessary, such as travel, veterinary care or emergencies (R1) (R8).
 
However, a crate is not the only way to successfully raise a well-behaved puppy. While some quickly learn to love their crates, others find confinement stressful. They will whine, scratch at the door, panic, attempt to escape, and some become increasingly anxious the longer they’re confined. In severe cases, dogs even injure themselves while attempting to escape, or chew or lick excessively at their own bodies as a way of coping with their anxiety.
 
Every puppy is unique and the best training approach is the one that helps the puppy feel safe while learning appropriate behaviours (R2) (R3). The goal of puppy training is not just about teaching a puppy to tolerate confinement, it’s to raise an independent, confident, relaxed and happy dog that can be trusted to not have accidents or chew inappropriate items when left alone in the house.

Crates are popular because they provide a practical way to manage normal puppy behaviour. Young puppies explore their environment with their mouths the way children use their hands. They will chew, investigate and can get into things that are potentially dangerous if not kept out of reach. A crate can prevent a puppy from practising unwanted behaviours when supervision isn’t possible (R1). A crate can also provide a quiet place where a puppy can rest, chew appropriate items and learn to settle. When introduced gradually and positively, many dogs will willingly choose to spend time in their crates because they associate them with comfort, relaxation and rewards.

The key to success is how the crate is introduced. A puppy should never be forced into a crate or expected to immediately accept being closed inside for long periods of time. A puppy that’s already adjusting to leaving its mother and littermates is likely to suffer separation anxiety and find sudden isolation frightening and upsetting.

Imagine being an eight-week-old puppy. Yesterday, you were with your mother and littermates surrounded by everything familiar. All of a sudden you are in a new home with new people, sights, sounds and smells and possibly other animals, and then you find yourself all alone in a crate. For most puppies, this experience is frightening and overwhelming. If the puppy acts out it’s not because it’s disobedient or demanding, it’s because it’s scared, stressed and anxious.

Like people, dogs vary in personality and temperament. While some are naturally more independent and adaptable, others need gradual introduction to new and necessary experiences. Behaviour experts recommend using step-by-step, positive training methods to prevent unpleasant emotions, and set the puppy up for success by creating positive associations (R1) (R3). For more information about positive training see my article entitled Positive Dog Training: The Science, Ethics & Proven Results.

Signs that a puppy is distressed include: excessive panting, drooling, frantic attempts to escape, prolonged distress vocalization, refusal to engage in chewing while in the crate and refusing to enter the crate. A puppy that occasionally complains because it would rather be out playing is different from one that’s actually distressed. Recognizing this is an important part of responsible training. To learn more about stress and anxiety in dogs see my article Stress & Anxiety In Dogs: How To Cure Stress & Anxiety While Protecting Your Dog’s Emotional Wellbeing.

I always videotape my puppies when I leave until I’m confident they are calm, happy and not having accidents or chewing inappropriate items while I’m gone. When I brought Tala home and confined him to a small area, he panicked the moment I left. He cried and attempted to escape. When I set him up in my kitchen secured with an exercise pen, with his bed, toys and a variety of tasty, aromatic chews, he immediately settled down. It was obvious that this boy simply needed more space to feel comfortable.
 
An exercise pen, often called an X-pen, is an excellent alternative to crate training for many puppies. It provides a safe, enclosed area while allowing the puppy more freedom to move around and stay active. The puppy can stretch, change sleeping positions, play with toys, chew on a bully stick or stuffed Kong and relax without feeling confined. For many puppies, the additional space reduces frustration, stress and anxiety, and helps them settle.
 
An exercise pen can include a comfortable bed, safe and tasty chew options, water and enrichment activities. Water is only left out when the puppy will be alone for more than a couple hours to reduce the need for urination and to prevent spills.
 
The X pen can be set up on a tarp to protect the floor, with newspapers or pee pads placed in one area for elimination. When using larger confined spaces, the exercise pen can also be positioned to block access to walls, cabinetry or other items the puppy might chew.
 
This setup allows guardians to safely manage their puppy while they are busy with chores or need to leave the home, while still allowing the puppy opportunities to move around, stay busy and mentally stimulated. Many breeders and trainers use exercise pens because they allow puppies to develop independence in a safe, controlled environment (R4). For more information about mental stimulation see my article entitled Canine Enrichment: The Best Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention.

Some puppies do very well with access to a puppy-proofed room or gated area of the home. A kitchen, laundry room, hall or other safe area can provide enough space for the puppy to rest, move around and play while preventing access to unsafe items. The key to success is preparation. The area should be free from electrical cords, toxic plants, dangerous objects and anything inappropriate the puppy could chew or swallow. Again, exercise pens can be used to protect walls or other objects the dog may chew on. Our goal is to create a safe environment where the puppy is set up to succeed.

For puppies that benefit from crate training, the process should always move at the puppy’s pace. Begin by leaving the crate door open and allowing the puppy to enter voluntarily. Toss treats near the crate and place some inside, feed meals in the crate, and provide special toys and chew options inside. Never force the puppy into the crate. Our goal is for the puppy to learn that good things happen in there and to choose to enter willingly.
 
Once the puppy is comfortable entering the crate and relaxing on its own, close the door for just a few seconds before opening it again. Always open the door while the puppy is still busy playing or chewing, before it becomes upset. Slowly increase the amount of time the door remains closed, continuing to let the puppy out before it shows any signs of distress.
 
This process, known as desensitization and counter conditioning, helps puppies develop positive associations with confinement (R2). Desensitization gradually gets the puppy used to spending time in the crate, while counter conditioning creates a pleasant association.

Many people believe that a crate is necessary for successful housebreaking however, while a crate can be helpful, it’s not the only option. Effective housebreaking focuses on creating a pattern of behaviour that includes preventing accidents, providing frequent opportunities to eliminate outside and rewarding the dog for doing so. Through consistency and repetition, the puppy learns that eliminating outside makes good things happen, while opportunities to have accidents indoors are minimized and the puppy learns from its mistakes without reprimands.
 
An exercise pen can be especially useful for young puppies because it provides a safe area while they are still developing bladder control. As puppies mature and become more reliable, they can be given more freedom until they are trustworthy enough to have access to most of the home. Our goal isn’t just to restrict the puppy’s movements, it’s to prevent unwanted habits from developing while teaching behaviours we want instead. For a pro-active housebreaking plan, see my article entitled How To Potty Train A Puppy – The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.

​​My opinion is that a puppy needs to learn independence and how to settle when necessary however, I do not agree with leaving young puppies alone for long periods unless it’s absolutely unavoidable. My rule of thumb is to gradually build the amount of time a young puppy is left alone, up to approximately four hours at most. Having someone you trust take your puppy out while you’re gone will help reduce stress.
 
Once the puppy is no longer having accidents in the house or chewing inappropriate objects, it can begin to earn more freedom in the home. Doors can always be closed to rooms you don’t want your puppy to enter. Once your puppy can safely have the run of the house, the amount of time left alone can be increased at the puppy’s pace until it reaches the length of time the adult dog will eventually need to manage. As always, when we have to leave our dogs, we return home as soon as possible to ensure we are meeting their needs.

The first few nights with a new puppy can be challenging. Puppies are accustomed to sleeping with their mother and littermates, so adjusting to a new sleeping environment can take time. Whether you are using a crate, exercise pen or puppy-proofed area, your goal is to help the puppy feel safe and secure. Keep in mind that dogs are social animals and often prefer to sleep near their family, so suddenly expecting a young puppy to sleep alone can be stressful. Keeping the puppy’s sleeping area beside your bed until they develop more independence can help make the transition easier.​

Although some puppies will sleep through the night from the day they come home, others will require night time bathroom breaks. Picking up the food at least 3 hours and water at least two hours before bed will help because an empty (not hungry) puppy is more likely to sleep through the night. With a puppy that needs to go out during the night, a calm, consistent routine works best. Quietly take the puppy outside, allow it to eliminate, reward it with a small treat for doing so then return to its sleeping area. As puppies mature, they will begin sleeping for longer periods until they are able to comfortably sleep through the night. For more information see my article Sleeping Through The Night: Proven Tips For Restful Sleep.

It’s best to decide where you want your dog to sleep long term before it comes home, because changing your routine after you’ve created a pattern can cause unnecessary stress and anxiety that can lead to emotional distress and other behaviour problems.
 
For the record, our dogs are allowed to sleep in our bed if they so choose, and because of this, we allow our puppies to sleep with us from the day they come home. We put little bells on their collars so we can hear them if they get up and take them outside to prevent accidents on the bed. I’ve done this with many puppies over the years and have never had an accident.

(R1) American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). Humane Dog Training Position Statement.
https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/
(R2) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats. CattleDog Publishing.
(R3) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.
(R4) Dunbar, I. (2003). Before & After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, Well-Behaved Dog. New World Library.
(R5) Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesirable behaviors. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(1–2), 47–54.
(R6) Bradshaw, J. (2011). Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You a Better Friend to Your Pet. Basic Books.
(R7) VCA Animal Hospitals. Crate Training Your Puppy.
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/crate-training-your-puppy
 
Photo By Norma Jeanne Laurette