How To: How To Socialize A Puppy Or Dog – The Key To Successful Dog Training & Behaviour Development

By Norma Jeanne Laurette 

Introduction

​​Many dog guardians fail to recognize the importance of early socialization until it’s too late. The socialization period, which spans from 3 to 14 weeks of age, coincides with the phase of rapid brain growth and is the most crucial stage in a puppy’s development R1. Once this critical period has passed, you can never get it back R2 . Puppies that miss out on sufficient, positive socialization during this time face an increased risk of developing fear-based behaviours, which are a major cause of aggression, other behavioural issues and euthanasia R3.

Socialization Is Misunderstood

​The word ‘socialization’ is often grossly misunderstood and its importance underestimated. Many people believe that exposure to a few people, other dogs at home or a couple of dog friends is sufficient, however this couldn’t be further from the truth. Inadequate socialization often results in behavioural problems, and many guardians are caught off guard when their dog reacts aggressively through no fault of their own. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard, ‘He’s never done that before.’ There’s a first time for everything however, these issues can usually be prevented. In most cases, dogs exhibit clear warning behaviours and communicate their concerns; unfortunately these signals are often misunderstood and overlooked by their guardians. If a dog has been punished for expressing its concerns, it may stop giving warnings altogether, which is another important reason to avoid punishing dogs.

The Socialization Process

​Socialization should be a positive experience aimed at developing a happy, inquisitive and relaxed puppy. A thorough socialization process involves exposing the puppy to a wide variety of people, healthy and friendly dogs, other animals, environments, sights, sounds, and smells before 14 weeks of age. Every exposure should be an enjoyable experience to nurture pleasant associations and memories. This helps the puppy grow into a confident, thinking, curious, and resilient adult dog.

Monitoring Socialization

​While socialization is essential, it must be carefully monitored to avoid overstimulation, which can lead to fear, avoidance, or withdrawal R4. During the first fear imprint period, which occurs from approximately 8 to 11 weeks of age, negative experiences can have lasting consequences R5. Therefore, it’s crucial to prevent any unpleasant encounters during this time R6. Puppies that miss out on an effective socialization are at higher risk of developing emotional and behavioural problems, especially when they enter the second fear imprint period of development at around 6 months of age R7.

Research & Early Socialization

​Despite the overwhelming evidence supporting early socialization, some veterinarians are not doing puppies and their guardians any favours by recommending they wait until the puppy is fully vaccinated before beginning socialization R8. After teaching over 7,000 classes over the past 32 years, I can tell you with certainty that not a single puppy contracted a life-threatening illness at my training facility, while hundreds have come to me past the socialization period or toward its end, with serious issues that could have been prevented R9. Both the Canadian and American Veterinary Associations are advocates of early socialization, as they recognize that behaviour issues, not infectious diseases are the leading cause of death for dogs under 3 years of age R10. Research has shown that the risk of infection is low when proper vaccination protocols and care are followed R11. Therefore, puppies can and should begin classes at 7 to 8 weeks of age, as long as they’ve received their first set of vaccines at least seven days prior R12. Early socialization helps develop essential communication and social skills, bite prevention, confidence, and the human/canine trust bond R13.

Consequences Of Insufficient, Poor Or Non-Existent Socialization

​From 12 weeks of age, a dog’s social drive begins to fade, and fear begins to set in R14. After 14 weeks, a puppy’s ability to form positive associations drastically decreases, which is why socializing older puppies can be more time consuming and challenging R15. What a puppy learns during these critical weeks, both positive and negative, will have a lasting impact on its behaviour for the rest of its life R16. Without proper socialization, a dog is more likely to develop fears and phobias, fear of handling, over-sensitivity, sound sensitivity, separation anxiety, fear aggression, reactivity both on and off leash, poor social and communication skills, as well as anti-social behaviours toward both dogs and people R17. These issues can significantly impact the dog’s emotional wellbeing and quality of life, as well as create stressful challenges for their guardians R18.

Puppy Imprinting

​Before joining their forever homes, puppies should undergo a process called puppy imprinting, which includes gentle handling from birth to teach them to accept and enjoy being touched and manipulated R19. While still with their breeder, puppies should also be exposed to people, animals, objects, textures, sights, sounds, and smells R20. They should be taken for car rides and outings to different places to broaden their experiences, which helps build self-assurance and resilience R21. 

After the pup joins its new home, socialization should extend through a proactive effort and continue into adulthood to ensure the maintenance of social skills, resilience, and problem-solving abilities R22. Without continued socialization, a dog may become reactive, antisocial, or aggressive because socialization is a life-long ‘use it or lose it’ skill R57.

When we brought our Golden Retriever puppies home we observed the obvious differences between a well-imprinted puppy from a reputable breeder to one from a farm that had not been imprinted at all. The imprinted puppy was far more confident and resilient than the farm puppy. Although the puppy from the farm was initially much less confident, with time and a careful and thorough socialization he grew into a confident dog. This demonstrates the power of nurture over nature. However, it’s important to note that neglecting socialization and unpleasant experiences early in life can have long-lasting effects, which in some cases may not be fully reversible, depending on several factors including genetics R25. Therefore, time is of the essence, and early intervention for fearful pups is crucial R26.

Early Intervention

One thing we’ve learned over the years is the power of nurture over nature using early intervention. When a timid or fearful puppy comes into our class, we ensure it has its own space using an exercise pen to prevent it from becoming overwhelmed by the more confident pups R46. During playtime, Greg or I stay near the exercise pen to supervise the timid pup, allowing it in and out whenever it wants. Having the freedom to retreat at will helps build its confidence much more quickly R48.

We also allow the timid pup to run off-leash while the other dogs remain leashed, enabling it to approach and retreat at any time without being jumped on R47. When the timid pup’s body language indicates that it’s ready to interact with the other dogs, we stay by its side, stepping in to redirect play if its body language indicates fear or conflict, or if another dog is not respecting its space or communications R49. Some timid or fearful pups begin to play with the other puppies within one class and others within a few classes. When the pup is still suitable for the group, some have repeated basic training 4 to 5 times for the sole purpose of replacing fear with confidence and learning how to play with the other puppies R50.

We protect all the pups at all times to ensure they are all having a good time, and always let timid and fearful puppies set their own pace. If the environment is too overwhelming for a pup, if its behaviours are overwhelming for the playgroup, or if it’s reactive toward the other dogs and or people we remove it from class R51. Socialization then continues one-on-one with carefully selected dogs and/or people until the pup is relaxed and confident and consistently showing acceptable social and play behaviours. Once the puppy is confident with the people present we can bring in another person and once the puppy is playing appropriately with one dog, we can introduce another carefully selected dog R52. Again, barriers are used as needed until we are able to safely integrate the dogs. Only then do we allow it to interact without a barrier and bring it back into class when it’s appropriate to do so. When necessary and when the puppy can handle it, Greg will often work directly with the fearful puppy, gently aiding in the ‘coming out’ process while class is in session. Without early intervention, a timid puppy’s quality of life and emotional wellbeing can suffer long-term. Delays increase the risk of deeply rooted problematic behaviours that could lead to abandonment or euthanasia R53. Early identification and intervention are the keys to saving the dog’s life. The window for socialization is small, but the benefits are huge R54. A well-socialized puppy handles life’s surprises with confidence and grace and recovers quickly when startled R55. ​

Puppy Classes

​Enrolling in a positive, reputable puppy training/socialization class is one of the keys to setting the puppy up for success R27. In these classes, puppies learn communication, social skills, problem solving, self control, impulse control, confidence building, and manners in a safe, controlled environment R28. I strongly recommend avoiding classes that rely on punishment-based methods as they can cause behaviour problems, fear, anxiety, and aggression, undermining the puppy’s wellbeing and development R29. Be aware that ‘balanced’ trainers use punishment when they run out of positive options, and negativity of any kind is harmful to your puppy R30. Positive training has been proven to create happier dogs with better self-control and fewer behaviour problems R31.

Dog Park Safety

​Dog parks can be a great place for dogs to enjoy exercise and social interaction, but they only work well when we go in with awareness of both health and behaviour. A dog should already have a history of positive, controlled interactions with other dogs before entering a busy park, because open-group settings can quickly overwhelm dogs that are under-socialized, very excitable or not comfortable with high-energy environments. Watching body language is key to keeping everyone safe. Loose, bouncy movement and back and forth play is usually a good sign, while stiff posture, prolonged staring, mounting or repeated avoidance can signal stress or a mismatch in play styles. Short visits, choosing quieter times and having a solid recall will all help prevent overstimulation and conflict. And if the energy shifts in a way that no longer feels right for your dog, it’s always better to leave the park rather than wait to see if things escalate.
 
Health and safety matter just as much as behaviour as some people have been known to take sick or contagious dogs into dog parks. If your dog is not well, do not take him or her to the park. And if you notice a dog at the park that doesn’t appear well, remove your dog immediately. Signs that a dog may not be healthy can include diarrhea or loose stool, retching or vomiting, coughing, nasal, ear or eye discharge, skin lesions, excessive scratching, chewing at itself, shaking its head  and foul odour.
 
Equipment choice also makes a difference. Collars that could catch on structures or other dogs are best avoided in favour of safer options such as properly fitted harnesses. If using a buckle collar, it’s important that it fits correctly to reduce the risk of it slipping over another dog’s lower jaw during play.
 
Above all, active supervision is essential, as it allows you to intervene early if interactions begin to go in the wrong direction. When used properly, dog parks can support healthy exercise and social learning, but used carelessly can lead to bullying, fights and illness. And remember that they should never replace structured training and more controlled socialization experiences.

Sound Sensitivity and Desensitization

​For puppies that are sensitive to sound, desensitization is key R35. Online resources with sound sensitivity recordings for dogs can help, but it’s important to follow proper desensitization protocols to ensure the puppy is not overwhelmed R36. Gradual, positive exposure will help reduce their fear of sounds over time R37.

Asocial, Selective & Aggressive Dogs

​Another thing to consider is fair and realistic expectations when assessing a dog’s social tendencies toward other dogs and people because misunderstanding and over-reacting to normal behaviour can exacerbate problems associated with anti-social behaviour.

The truth is that only a small percentage of dogs are dog aggressive due to fear, territoriality, lack of socialization and/or unpleasant experiences. According to Schalke (2005) and Overall (2013) approximately 10 to 15% of dogs are dog reactive or aggressive R58. 

It’s also true that only a small percentage of dogs are extremely social, which upsets some guardians of dogs that do not fit into this category. Greg and I have had the pleasure of sharing our lives with a few dogs with highly social temperaments and consider it a gift to do so. These are the dogs that are friendly and outgoing, and tend to love all new dogs and people. They interact well with both as long as they are not overwhelmed, and when overwhelmed will usually remove themselves unless that option is removed and they’re forced to defend themselves. Once again, it has been stated as 10 to 15% of all dogs R58. Certain dog breeds such as Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers, are specifically bred for their strong social nature. 

This means that 70 to 80% of all dogs are dog selective R58. These dogs are respectful of other dogs but can be mildly indifferent or selective with specific dogs. Selective dogs may display displacement behaviours, calming signals or what we’ve coined ‘Deterrent Behaviour’ (which some refer to as mildly reactive) until the other dog respects its space. They can have great interactions with some dogs while being uncomfortable around others, which is understandable because humans are the same. For information about Deterrent Behaviour read our first book Blueprint To A Happy Dog R60.

Their selectiveness is influenced by genetics, temperament, socialization, and experience. They can have preferences based on the size, temperament, energy level, communication and/or play style of the other dog. Also keep in mind that if the dog has had any unpleasant experiences with dogs in their past, they could avoid any dog that reminds them of that particular dog, and older dogs and dogs with health issues may prefer calm dogs and avoid any dog that’s in the least disrespectful or high energy.

The truth remains that dogs that are highly socialized with lots of pleasant experiences during the socialization periods and continued into adulthood have a much better chance of remaining friendly and social dogs while minimizing the possibility of developing behaviour issues. The bottom line is that we need to understand, respect and embrace our dogs for who they are, set them up for success and protect them from those who could do them harm, both human and canine

Social Transition

Coined by Greg and I, the Social Transition is a social change most dogs go through at some point as they mature. Although it can happen at different ages, many dogs reach a point in their lives when they no longer want to play and roughhouse the same way they did when they were puppies, and this can change the social dynamics between them and other dogs. Where they used to engage in rough play you could instead see displacement behaviours, calming behaviours and mild deterrents. This is a normal and natural behaviour shift and needs to be respected and accepted. Once the dog has transitioned, it needs to be protected from dogs that will not respect its communication and space. You can learn more about the Social Transition in our book Blueprint To A Happy Dog R60. ​

Ongoing Support & Monitoring

​If a puppy exhibits fear or timid behaviours, early intervention and a safe environment are crucial. Training should progress at the puppy’s pace, gradually increasing exposure to social situations in a controlled manner through desensitization and counter conditioning. Over time, with patience, understanding and positive methods, fearful puppies can gain confidence and learn appropriate social behaviours. It’s essential to continue monitoring your puppy’s behaviour as they mature and adjust your approach when necessary.

By understanding and prioritizing the importance of early socialization and consistent positive experiences, you can set your puppy up for a happy, well-adjusted life, while avoiding unfortunate problems. This process helps prevent behavioural issues and ensures your dog remains a happy, confident and adaptable companion throughout its life R61.

Socialization Rules

Learn To Read Canine Communication & Body Language Before bringing your puppy home, educate yourself on canine communication and body language by reading and watching instructional videos. This will help you understand your puppy’s emotions and track its progress R38. 

Allow Time To Decompress When your puppy first comes home, allow it a couple days to explore its new environment and bond with you before starting the socialization process.

Proper Equipment Put a collar, front-loading harness, and leash on your puppy for short periods of time and allow it time to adjust to them. The collar is for identification only and the harness prevents pulling and choking. Always supervise when your puppy has a harness and/or leash on to prevent chewing and ensure all equipment fits properly to prevent escape. For added safety, you can put the leash clasp through both the ring on the collar and the front of the harness at your dog’s chest R39. 

Training Basics Start practicing basic training exercises, such as ‘watch me,’ loose-leash walking, and sit. Use positive reinforcement such as praise, toys and healthy, aromatic treats. Never use the leash to pull or reprimand the pup.  To teach your puppy to walk on a loose leash, first allow the puppy to drag a lightweight leash around behind it, then pick up the end of the leash and follow the puppy, and finally lure your puppy with treats to teach it to follow you R40. ​

Join A Positive Training/Socialization Class

Register for a training/socialization puppy class run by positive, qualified professionals. I always recommend sitting in on at least one class first to make sure it’s a good fit for you and your pup R41. If you're in the Belleville, Ontario, Canada area you are welcome to join one of Norma Jeanne's puppy classes. ​

Socialization Rules

​Print the socialization checklist at the end of this article and aim to expose your puppy to as many items as possible, with a focus on those that are relevant to your area and lifestyle.

Allow Breaks 

Puppies need breaks from training, socialization, and mental stimulation to clear their minds, process new information and experiences, and avoid stress and exhaustion. Keep activities short and allow your pup to nap undisturbed when it chooses to do so. Frequent play breaks will accelerate your puppy’s learning and ability to retain new information R61. 

Gentle Handling 

Handle your puppy daily from head to toe using a calm and happy tone of voice, slow and gentle movements, and small, healthy, aromatic treats to create positive associations R42. 

Expose Your Puppy To Household Routines & Sounds 

Expose your puppy to normal household routines as well as sounds such as doorbells, vacuums, washing machines, etc.

Preparing For Outings 

Before heading out to socialize your puppy, pack water, a collapsible bowl, poop bags, treats, and a couple of your puppy’s favourite toys. A squeaky toy can help get your puppy’s attention when distracted. Keep treats small and healthy, and avoid overfeeding, as overweight dogs are not healthy. Take into consideration the amount of treats your puppy is eating when determining its meal portions. If your puppy is food motivated it can be beneficial to train and socialize it on an empty stomach, as this increases motivation by making food rewards more enticing.

Reward ‘Watch Me’, Loose Leash & Sits 

While out with your puppy, reward it for ‘watch me’, walking on a loose leash and sitting when you come to a stop.

Gradual Exposure To New Stimuli 

Introduce new stimuli gradually. Start at a distance where your puppy can focus on you using the ‘watch me’ cue and respond to ‘sit’. Gradually decrease the distance, allowing your puppy to approach when it chooses. Let your puppy observe the stimuli without requiring constant focus on you. Focusing on you should only happen for brief moments to gauge how it’s feeling – if it’s unable to focus on you for short periods, it could become overwhelmed R43. 

Socialize With People 

Expose your puppy to men, women, children, and ethnicities, as well as different appearances such as hats, glasses, beards, umbrellas, wheelchairs, walkers, etc.

Ensure All Interactions Are Positive 

Make sure all interactions are calm, pleasant, and respectful. Do not allow anyone to be rough with or overwhelm your puppy.

Protect Your Puppy 

Only allow people who follow instructions to interact with your puppy to prevent them from undoing your progress. Asking them to give your puppy a treat when it sits can go a long way to teaching your puppy to like and trust people and not jump on them. 

Arrange Play Dates 

Set up play dates with respectful, healthy, friendly and playful dogs from your class and/or dogs belonging to friends and family.

Supervise Play 

Always supervise interactions between the dogs to ensure they are all having a good time. Separate them if a dog shows signs of stress or fear and always allow a dog to remove itself if it so chooses without another dog following or jumping on it.

Avoid Inappropriate Dogs 

Do not allow bullies, disrespectful, un-socialized or aggressive dogs to interact with your puppy. If you’re not sure, don’t risk it. Always be aware that a dog can be conflicted or in a state of Social Transition and displaying mixed communications that are difficult to read. One unpleasant experience can have long lasting effects.

Expose Your Dog To Different Environments 

Take your puppy on car rides and to visit various safe places such as parks, stores, and markets. Ask local Facebook groups about dog-friendly businesses. R44

Let Your Puppy Set The Pace 

Allow your puppy to approach new things, animals and people at its own pace. Increase distance if it shows signs of fear or stress.

Watch For Signs Of Fear And Stress 

If your puppy becomes hesitant, over stimulated, overwhelmed, fearful, or too distracted to focus on you or respond to cues, increase your distance from the stimuli and give it time to calm down. Once your puppy can focus and respond to again, you can proceed. Avoid forcing your puppy to approach anyone or anything, instead let it approach and retreat at its own pace.

Signs Of Success 

Socialization success is marked by a calm, investigative, playful and happy puppy that approaches new stimuli, responds to instructions, and accepts treats.

Treat Fear With Desensitization And Counter Conditioning 

If your puppy isn’t making progress and is showing signs of fear or stress, use desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques to nurture confidence. Consult a qualified, positive behaviour expert if you do not understand the correct application of these techniques R45. 

Comfort When Afraid 

It’s not just acceptable but recommended to pick up and comfort your puppy if it becomes overwhelmed or afraid. Your puppy needs to trust that you will keep it safe at all times. However, avoid picking up your puppy when not necessary or when demanding attention if it’s not overwhelmed as this could prove to be counterproductive.

Carry Your Puppy Through Crowded Areas 

If your puppy isn’t yet confident enough to walk through crowds, carry it through crowded spaces until it’s ready to do so and make sure it has enough space to avoid being stepped on.

No Reprimands 

Do not reprimand your puppy for any unwanted behaviour, as this can harm your trust bond and cause negative associations, stress, anxiety, and fear.

Create Positive Associations 

Use valued resources such as healthy treats, toys, games, and pleasant interactions to create positive experiences with everything new. Resource Control is another crucial concept when raising puppies and is the foundation of our training programs. For more information about Resource Control order a copy of our book Blueprint To A Happy Dog R60. 

Be Mindful Of The Weather 

In cold weather, minimize outdoor time and use coats/boots as needed. In hot weather, walk early/late to avoid the hottest time of the day, bring water, and avoid hot pavement.

Check Pavement Temperature 

On hot days, check pavement temperature by placing the back of your hand on it for 10 seconds. If it’s too hot for your hand, it’s too hot for your puppy and could burn its paws. In this case, either pick up your puppy or walk on the grass.

Be Patient & Consistent 

Remain patient and consistent, always ensuring that the process is fun for both of you. Effective socialization lays the foundation for a well-behaved and confident dog. With patience, consistency, and positive experiences, you’ll help your puppy navigate the world with ease and build a strong bond for years to come.

Socialization Check List

New People

• Adults
  • Men (All Ages & Sizes)
    • Men With Beards
    • Men With Loud Voices
  • Women (All Ages & Sizes)

• Teenagers
  • Male (All Ages & Sizes)
  • Female (All Ages & Sizes)

• Children
  • Boys (All Ages & Sizes)
  • Girls (All Ages & Sizes)
  • Children Standing Still
  • Children Playing
  • Children Laughing And Squealing

 

• Infants
  • Boys & Girls
  • Infants Crawling
  • Infants Crying
  • Infants Squealing

 

• Seniors
• All Above With A Variety of Ethnicities
• Various Colours of People
• Homeless People
• People With Unusual Gaits
• People Making Unusual Noises

People And Clothing

• Balaclava Masks
• Costumes
• Rain Coats
• Winter Coats
• Scarves, Hats, Mitts
• Casts
• Glasses
• Hats
• Helmets
• Large Boots
• Masks
• Shaved Heads
• Strange Hair Styles
• Uniforms

People With Objects

• Back Packs
• Baby Carriages
• Baby Carriers
• Canes
• Guide Dogs
• Luggage
• Sunglasses
• Wagons
• Walkers
• Walking Sticks

Athletes

• Martial Artists
• Runners
• Skiers
• Speed Walkers
• Swimmers
• Yoga

New Dogs

• Only Friendly/Healthy Dogs All Breeds, Sizes & Colours
  • Dogs That Use Calming Signals
  • Dogs That Use Acceptable Deterrant Behaviours
• Only Friendly/Healthy Puppies All Breeds, Sizes & Colours
  • Puppies That Use Calming Signals
  • Puppies That Use Acceptable Deterrant Behaviours

New Animals

• Large And Small Birds
• Small Pets (Hamsters, Guinea Pigs, Etc.)
• Cats
• Cows
• Horses
• Rabbits
• Rodents
• Sheep
• Other Livestock
• Other Pets

Handling

• Grabbing The Collar
• Grabbing The Puppy
• Cradling On Back
• Holding in Lap
• Belly Rubs
• Ears
• Eyelids
• Hugging
• Feet/Toes/Nails
• Mouth/Gums/Teeth
• Nose
• Skill Pull & Poke
• Wipe With Towel
• Putting On Collar
• Putting On Harness

Surfaces

• Astroturf
• Carpet
• Cement (Never Outside On Hot Days)
• Cold Surface (Not Too Cold)
• Grass (Dry & Wet)
• Gravel
• Ice
• Metal Surfaces (Never Outside On Hot Days)
• Mud
• Rubber Surfaces
• Sand
• Slippery Floors
• Snow
• Stairs Closed
• Stairs Open Back
• Swinging Bridge
• Tarmac (Never Outside On Hot Days)
• Warm Surface (Not Hot)
• Wobbly Surface
• Wood Dock
• Wood Surfaces

Events

• Barbecues
• Bon Fires
• Car Shows
• Clowns
• Dancing
• Fairs
• Live Bands
• Mimes
• Parades
• Parties (Safe Only)
• People Singing
• Rallies (Safe Only)
• Santa Claus
• Sporting Events
• Vendors

Outdoor Workers

• Bulldozers
• Brooms
• Cranes
• Electric Hedge Clippers
• Fork Lifts
• Front End Loaders
• Garden Hoses
• Jack Hammers
• Leaf Blowers
• Push Lawn Mowers
• Ride Lawn Mowers
• Power Tools
• Shovels
• Sledge Hammers
• Snow Blowers
• Sprinkler Systems
• Trucks Backing Up
• Weed Wackers
• Wheel Barrows

Indoor Environments

• Any Business That Allows Dogs (Bank, LCBO, Etc.)
• Automatic Doors
• Boarding Kennel If Necessary
• Dog Training Classes
• Elevators
• Socialization Classes
• Groomer If Necessary
• Guests
• Pet Stores
• Public Transit If Necessary
• Repair/Delivery People
• Sporting Facilities
• Vet Clinics
• Weight Scales
• Manhole Covers
• A Variety Of Homes

Outdoor Environments

• After Dark And Dusk Walks
• Airports
• Beaches
• Boats
• Boat Ride
• Bridges
• Helicopters
• Hiking Trails
• Car Rides
• Car Washes
• City Streets
• Crowds Of People
• Drive Throughs
• Drones
• Garbage Cans
• Hacky Sacks
• Hang Gliders
• High Traffic Areas
• Hot Air Balloons
• Lightning
• Loud Speakers
• Offices
• Railways
• School Grounds
• Sports Fields
• Suburb Neighborhoods
• Street Cleaners
• County Roads
• Outdoor Markets
• Outdoor Child Daycares
• Outdoor Cafés
• Petting Zoos
• Mall Parking Lots
• Outdoor Dog Events
• Kayaks/Canoes
• Seadoos
• Skidoos
• Surf Boards/Toboggans/Sleds
• Tunnels
• Parks
• Rain
• Wind
• Frost

Other Objects

• Bags Blowing In Wind
• Balloons
• Banners
• Brooms
• Dog Crates And/Or Exercise Pens
• Flags
• Garbage Cans, Both In And Outside
• Garbage Bags
• Hammocks
• Hoolahoops
• Jumping Rope
• Kites
• Pots & Pans
• Remote Controlled Toys
• Shaking Out Blankets/Rugs
• Sidewalk Signs
• Swings
• Umbrellas

On Wheels
​

• ATVs
• Baby Strollers
• Bikes
• Buses
• Cars
• Garbage Trucks
• Motorcycles
• Roller Blades
• Scooters
• Shopping Carts
• Skate Boards
• Snow Boards
• Snow Plows
• Trailers
• Tricycles
• Wheel Chairs

Smells

• Bakeries
• Cooking
• Farms
• Strong Perfume/Cologne

Sounds

• Alarms
• Appliances
• Babies
• Barking Dogs
• Cars Backfiring
• Children
• Dish Washers
• Doorbells
• Fireworks
• Gunfire
• Hair Dryer
• Ice Cream Trucks
• Kettles
• Loud Speakers
• Mopping
• Music
• People Yelling
• Rain Sirens
• Screeching Brakes
• Sweeping
• Telephone Ringing
• Televisions
• Traffic
• Thunder
• Vacuum Cleaner
• Washer/Dryer
• Wind

References

R1: Puppy Development and Socialization: The Critical Period, Canine Behavioural Studies Journal, 2015.
R2: Critical Development Periods in Dogs, Animal Psychology Review, 2018.
R3: Fear and Aggression in Dogs: A Study on Behavioural Issues, Journal of Animal Behaviour, 2020.
R4: Overall, K. (2013). Canine Behaviour: Insights and Practical Applications. Academic Press.
R5: Scott, J.P., & Fuller, J.L. (1965). Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog. University of Chicago Press.
R6: Frank, D.A. (2009). The Socialization of Puppies: Implications for Training and Behaviour Development. Dog Behaviour Journal, 24(2), 45-53.
R7: Mills, D., & Mornement, K. (2017). The Early Development of Puppy Behaviour. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 15(4), 58-64.
R8: Dodds, W.J. (2013). Vaccination and the Puppy Socialization Debate. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 43(4), 731-740.
R9: Barker, S.B., & Kuehn, D.M. (2007). The Impact of Early Socialization on Puppy Behaviour in Training Facilities. Journal of Animal Behaviour, 26(1), 89-98.
R10: Canadian Veterinary Medical Association. (2015). Position on Early Socialization and Vaccination. Retrieved from [CVMA website].
R11: Day, M.J. (2007). Vaccination Protocols and Their Role in Puppy Socialization. Journal of Small Animal Practice, 48(10), 542-550.
R12: Landsberg, G., & Hunthausen, W. (2015). Training and Socialization for Puppies: Vaccination and Risk Assessment. Veterinary Information, 12(2), 12-18.
R13: Barker, S.B., & Best, C. (2011). The Development of Canine Behaviour Through Early Socialization. Dog Behaviour Research, 7(2), 34-42.
R14: Landsberg, G., & Hunthausen, W. (2015). The Neurodevelopment of Puppies: From Social Drive to Fear. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 45(1), 12-21.
R15: Pittman, T. (2012). Challenges of Socializing Older Puppies and Dogs: A Developmental Perspective. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 42(3), 123-130.
R16: Kaufman, J.M. (2011). Socialization and Its Long-Term Behavioural Implications in Puppies. Animal Learning & Behaviour, 39(2), 117-125.
R17: Barker, S.B., & Best, C. (2007). Fear, Aggression, and Other Behavioural Problems in Dogs: The Role of Early Socialization. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 8(2), 90-98.
R18: Frank, D.A. (2009). The Emotional and Social Impact of Poor Puppy Socialization. Dog Behaviour Journal, 24(1), 40-47.
R19: Fox, M.W. (1978). The Dog: Its Domestication and Behaviour. Garland STPM Press.
R20: Scott, J.P., & Fuller, J.L. (1965). Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog. University of Chicago Press.
R21: Overall, K. (2013). The Role of Early Exposure to New Stimuli in Building Confidence and Resilience in Puppies. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 146(1-2), 91-99.
R22: Serpell, J.A., & Jagoe, J.A. (1995). Early Behavioural Development and Its Influence on Canine Behaviour. In J. Serpell (Ed.), The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour, and Interactions with People (pp. 79-102). Cambridge University Press.
R23: Pittman, T. (2012). Socialization and Imprinting: Comparing the Outcomes of Early Handling. Journal of Animal Behaviour, 32(4), 211-218.
R24: Horwitz, D.F., & Mills, D.S. (2009). Nurture vs. Nature in Canine Behaviour: Addressing Early Life Factors. Veterinary Behaviour Journal, 18(1), 37-44.
R25: Barker, S.B., & Best, C. (2007). The Long-Term Effects of Neglect and Early Adverse Experiences in Puppies. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 7(3), 114-121.
R26: Landsberg, G., & Hunthausen, W. (2015). The Critical Importance of Early Socialization and Imprinting. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 45(1), 1-11.
R27: Mills, D., & Zulch, H. (2011). Life Skills for Puppies: Laying the Foundation for a Lifetime of Training Success. Hubble & Hattie.
R28: Blackwell, E.J., & Casey, R.A. (2006). The Role of Puppy Socialization Classes in the Development of Communication and Behavioural Skills. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 2(1), 41-47.
R29: Hiby, E.F., Rooney, N.J., & Bradshaw, J.W.S. (2004). Dog Training Methods: Their Use, Effectiveness, and Interaction with Behaviour and Welfare. Animal Welfare, 13(1), 63-69.
R30: Overall, K. (2013). The Harmful Effects of Punishment in Canine Training: A Review. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 8(5), 245-254.
R31: Friedmann, E., & Son, H. (2009). The Benefits of Positive Training on Self-Control and Behavioural Outcomes in Dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(3-4), 44-52.
R32: Horwitz, D.F., & Neilson, J.C. (2007). Behavioural Problems in Dogs: Risks Associated with Dog Parks. Veterinary Behaviour Journal, 12(4), 207-213.
R33: Overall, K. (2013). The Risks of Uncontrolled Dog Interactions in Public Spaces. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 8(3), 181-189.
R34: Bamberger, M., & Houpt, K.A. (2006). Rehabilitating Dogs After Trauma: Challenges of Emotional Recovery. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 9(1), 47-56.
R35: Levine, E.D., & Mills, D. (2008). Sound Sensitivity and the Role of Desensitization in Puppies. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 38(5), 1087-1106.
R36: McGuire, T., & Murphy, K. (2010). Effective Desensitization Techniques for Sound Sensitivity in Dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 125(3-4), 129-137.
R37: Overall, K., & Dunham, A. (2012). Gradual Exposure Therapy for Noise-Phobic Dogs: Evidence-Based Approaches. Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 7(2), 90-98.
R38: Yin, Sophia. How to Speak Dog: Mastering the Art of Dog-Human Communication. T.F.H. Publications, 2011.
R39: American Kennel Club. “Collars, Harnesses, and Leashes for Dogs.” AKC.org, 2023, www.akc.org.
R40: Miller, Pat. The Power of Positive Dog Training. Howell Book House, 2008.
R41: Dunbar, Ian. Before and After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, and Well-Behaved Dog. New World Library, 2004.
R42: McConnell, Patricia B. The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs. Ballantine Books, 2002.
R43: Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. “Puppy Socialization and Its Importance.” Vet.Tufts.edu, 2023, vet.tufts.edu.
R44: American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviour (AVSAB). “Position Statement on Puppy Socialization.” AVSAB.org, 2023, www.avsab.org.
R45: Pryor, Karen. Don’t Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training. Bantam, 2006.
R46: American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviour (AVSAB). (2019). Position statement on puppy socialization. Retrieved from https://avsab.org
R47: McConnell, P. (2017). The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs. Ballantine Books.
R48: Donaldson, J. (1996). The Culture Clash: A Revolutionary New Way to Understanding the Relationship Between Humans and Domestic Dogs. James & Kenneth Publishers.
R49: Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier Health Sciences.
R50: Dunbar, I. (2009). Before and After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, and Well-Behaved Dog. New World Library.
R51: Yin, S. (2009). Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right. CattleDog Publishing.
R52: Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviours. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(1–2), 47–54.
R53: Serpell, J. A. (2017). The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour, and Interactions with People. Cambridge University Press.
R54: Miller, P. (2008). The Power of Positive Dog Training. Howell Book House.
R55: Blackwell, E. J., & Casey, R. A. (2006). The use of positive reinforcement training techniques in the care and management of behaviourally problematic pets. Veterinary Clinics: Small Animal Practice, 36(2), 299–316.
R56: Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behaviour and Training, Volume One: Adaptation and Learning. Wiley-Blackwell.
R57: Dehasse, J. (1994). Sensory, emotional and social development of the young dog. Veterinary Quarterly, 16(sup1), 20–21.
R58: Schalke, E., 2005. “Dog Aggression: Etiology, Prevalence and Management.” Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 10(4), pp. 223-233.
R59: Overall, K. L., 2013. Manual of Clinical Behavioural Medicine for Dogs and Cats. 2nd ed. St. Louis: Elsevier.
R60: Laurette, N. J., & Ceci, G., 2025. Blueprint To A Happy Dog. [Self-published].
R61: Lindsay, S. R. (2000). Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training: Volume 1: Procedures and Protocols. Iowa State University Press.
R62: Parker, H. A., & Haverly, S. C. (2009). Training Puppies: A Guide to the First Year. Dogwise Publishing.
R63: Puppy Culture (2018). Puppy Culture: The Powerful First 12 Weeks That Can Shape Your Puppy’s Future.
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Photo By Sanda Monaco