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By Norma Jeanne Laurette  IntroductionPulling on leash is a common challenge because it’s a natural canine behaviour. Dogs pull to investigate the world, and we’re holding them back. A dog that pulls on leash is not a bad dog – it’s a normal dog. Likewise, a dog that heels nicely beside you is not a “good” dog – it’s a trained dog. Dogs do what comes naturally until taught new behaviours that are reinforced with valued resources. As a trainer who prioritizes techniques over tools, I’ve encountered situations where a dog is simply too powerful for its handler, making training difficult and potentially unsafe. This can be especially true for children, seniors, individuals with disabilities, or small handlers managing large, powerful dogs. In these cases, frustration often builds, causing some to stop walking their dogs altogether. Others may turn to harsh tools such as choke chains, pinch collars, or shock equipment, unaware that humane and effective alternatives exist. For those who can’t control the strength of their dogs on leash I recommend only one tool: a front-loading harness. Why A Front-Loading Harness?A front-loading harness is a humane and effective solution to leash pulling, and allows handlers to maintain control and teach loose leash walking without resorting to punitive methods. When the leash attaches to a ring at the dog’s chest, pulling causes the dog to turn toward the handler, shifting its centre of balance, preventing it from digging in and moving forward. There is no pain or discomfort. Proper technique enhances the harness’s effectiveness and prevents the dog from learning to pull in spite of it. Not all harnesses function in this way. Many traditional harnesses attach only at the back, allowing the dog to use its front shoulders to pull – much like a sled dog. Some harnesses use martingale loops that tighten and loosen but do not shift the dog’s balance. Others work because they push into sensitive nerves in the dog’s arm pits causing discomfort or pain, which is not ideal for maintaining positive associations, a good temperament and emotional wellbeing. A comfortable, well-fitted front-loading harness offers a safer, more positive experience for both dog and handler. I’ve had a very high success rate with this type of harness, even with dogs weighing up to 200 pounds. It requires minimal strength to hold the dog and often produces immediate results. Recommended Front-Loading HarnessesHere are some brands of front loading harnesses recommended by my CCS dog trainer students and graduates:
When choosing a harness, select one made of soft fabric to prevent chafing. Avoid harnesses with martingale-style loops that tighten and loosen, and ensure the harness allows full shoulder movement to prevent potential joint injuries over time. For added safety, choose a harness with both chest and back rings for attaching a second leash. A harness with a handle on the back is also a useful feature, offering extra control in certain situations. Fitting And Using A Front-Loading HarnessProper Fit The harness should fit snugly but comfortably, allowing two fingers to slide under any part of it when the dog is sitting. This ensures that it’s not too tight to cause chafing or restrict breathing or movement, but not so loose that it can slip off or shift. The straps around the chest and shoulders should lie flat and not dig into the dog’s skin. They should allow the dog to move its legs and shoulders freely without the harness interfering. The front strap should sit across the chest low enough to avoid putting any pressure on the throat. After fitting, check all adjustable straps to make sure there is no shifting when the dog walks to ensure the harness stays securely in place. Tips To Prevent ChafingIf chafing is an issue, which can happen with shorthaired dogs, use “Halter Fuzzies” (cut to size) to wrap around the straps anywhere chaffing occurs. A “Halter Fuzzy” is a soft, padded cover made to wrap around a horse halter. They are made of fleece or other soft, cushioned materials and can be found at tack shops or anywhere horse supplies are sold. SafetyNever leave the harness on an unattended dog, as it may chew through the straps. Use two leashes if your harness has both chest and back rings for better control and to prevent escape. Training TechniquesYour first step is to decide where you want the dog to walk. Would you prefer the dog has the option to explore and sniff freely without pulling, or do you want it to stay in heel position? Both options are acceptable. If you’re allowing the dog freedom on the leash, only move forward when the leash is loose. If you prefer the dog in heel position, only move forward when it’s in heel. Training TechniquesYour first step is to decide where you want the dog to walk. Would you prefer the dog has the option to explore and sniff freely without pulling, or do you want it to stay in heel position? Both options are acceptable. If you’re allowing the dog freedom on the leash, only move forward when the leash is loose. If you prefer the dog in heel position, only move forward when it’s in heel. For optimal results, combine the harness with proper training techniques. Below are four effective methods to use when the dog passes you, before it begins to pull. Red Light Green LightAs the dog begins to pass you, stop walking. When the dog reaches the end of the leash, the harness will shift the dog’s balance causing it to turn toward you. Lure, instruct or wait until the dog comes back to a loose leash or heel position before resuming your walk. Only move forward when the leash is loose. Shift & ReleaseDraw the leash toward you to gently shift the dog’s balance, then immediately release. This turns the dog toward you and interrupts pulling. Remember to never allow the leash to remain tight for more than a split second. Back UpGet the dog’s attention, then back up as you encourage it to turn and walk toward you. Once the leash is loose or the dog is beside you, move forward again. Always check your surroundings before backing up to ensure they are clear, to avoid running into or tripping over people, obstacles or uneven ground. About TurnEncourage the dog to follow while turning away and walking in the opposite direction. This helps the dog return to the heel position and creates a loose leash. If the dog is on your left, turn to your right (and vice versa) to avoid tripping over the dog. This technique is my favourite and has consistently been the most effective for me when managing avid pullers. Consistency Is Key Add TextPatience and consistency are essential for success. If you allow the dog to pull without using one or a combination of these techniques, it could learn to pull even with the harness on. Use one or more of the above techniques every time the dog passes you or attempts to pull. With repetition the dog will learn to stay beside you. Remember to reward the dog when in heel position or on a loose leash. This will teach the dog that good things happen when it stays close. Why I Switched From A Head Halter To A Front-Loading HarnessI previously used head halters but stopped using them shortly after trying them due to several issues. Many dogs disliked the head halter, leading to stress, anxiety, and even emotional trauma, especially in timid or fearful dogs. These negative experiences resulted in dogs cowering, shaking, pawing at their heads, rolling on the ground, or shutting down and refusing to walk altogether. Additionally, Greg and I found that head halters can exacerbate leash reactivity and aggression. The dog’s negative associations with the head halter often triggered reactive behaviour towards other dogs and people. Dogs use their mouths the way people use their hands. Restricting a dog from using its muzzle in a natural manner is comparable to handcuffing a person with their hands in front of them. You could still go about your day doing most of the things you usually do, but would quickly become frustrated and anxious. Upon switching to front-loading harnesses, we observed dogs quickly and visibly relaxing. While some dogs may initially show mild stress when introduced to any new tool, most responded positively to the front-loading harness. To mitigate unnecessary stress, it’s important to desensitize the dog to the harness and make the process of putting it on and removing it a pleasant experience. Other Problems Associated With Head HaltersImproperly fitted head halters can cause friction burns or sores on the chin, nose, and/or behind the ears. If not properly adjusted, they can press into the dog’s eyes, leading to irritation, sores, or injury, and potentially worsening conditions like glaucoma. Tight head halters can make it difficult for a dog to open its mouth or pant comfortably. By pairing the front-loading harness with effective training techniques, you can ensure a positive, safe, and enjoyable walking experience for both the dog and its guardian, while maintaining optimal, effortless control and safety. Photo by Valeriia Miller from Pexels
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